ya not a glowplug issue. if they all ohm out. theres only a few things that will cause all 8 injector low codes.
1)low voltage
2) ficm programing issue
3)failed ficm
4)ficm relay
5) damaged injector harness

 

Well, at this point I'm just gonna put the truck back together. If the ficm relay was bad, I would think it would run like crap all the time, not just cold. Like I said, once it's warm, all is well.

But the next thing that concerns me is if it does, or does not have a chip. When he bought the truck, it had a flip chip on it with a rotary ****. When he had issues with it the first time, the dealership took it all off, suposidly. They removed the pillar gauges and gave them to my dad, but wouldn't give him the chip. Which I say is BS. They sold him the truck like that, and then when they realized it was their fault, said he could have the chip which he bought with the truck. He knew it was BS, but let them go with it anyway.

So my question is this. If they only removed the switch, and cut the wires, that could be causing an issue, yes? So does say a DP chip plug into the pcm like a 7.3? Where you could see it externally? I'm gonna go check it out and see what I see. Again, thanks for the help.

 

Also, the dealership that he bought the truck from, has since went under and is no more. So that is no help at all.

 

pcm is behind the left battery. unlikly a chip of any type would casue injector low codes.

 

you near ft. worth by chance?

 

Well, we have resolution to the problem. And DAM IT!!! You had the answer right here in this post, and I missed it some how. I was hanging on your every word, and somehow I miss the part where you said "you need to check the voltage BOTH CRANKING AND RUNNING".

I checked the voltage key on only. I think that's what it told me to do in the writeup. Dam......

Well, Dad calls and said the truck was running fine now after taking it to the dealership. While I was there we went to the dealership that was local to him. (not the original dealer cuz they went out of business.) I explained to the service writer what we had, and our concern about a programer etc.etc. They said, bring it in and we'll try a reflash, and check for any programming left on the truck.

They finally got to it 2 days ago. They reflashed it like we asked with no issues, and no evidence of programing. But it did not fix the problem. They ended up changing out the FICM with a rebuilt unit. That cured the problem.

So the end result was a bad FICM unit. Which all of you had said at one point. But after reading 48v, I was stumped.....But had I payed more attention and read voltage at crank, and run, I would have seen it. I called the service writer this morning and he said, the voltage would drop to 28v during run, causing the problem.......DAM IT!!! I honestly think I could have performed the soldier re-flow in the fix proceedure. But, lesson learned.

And Gentlemen, it's not that I wasn't listening, and didn't believe you. It's just I couldn't prove to myself that the FICM was bad. And I certainly didn't want to take a chance on ruining the FICM, if I didn't have to. In hind sight, I should have tried the fix, and gave it a run.

Thank all of you for your help. And if nothing else, I learned quite a bit about the 6.0's.

 

Let's give a big round of applause to cheezit!

 

Amen!!!!!!

 

FYI - in the link I provided in post #2, it states:

4a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.

5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.

6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.

 

The 5a. Threw me. I had no way of performing a buzz test, and was unsure if that just meant cycle the key.

6a. I apperently missed all together as well. Cuz I would have cranked it and checked. So I guess I missed that too.


You know, I tell my wife, and alot of my guys "Details, Details". I guess I need to take my own advice. LOL

Again, thanks for all your help guys. And really I wouldn't call it a loss. This is litterally the first time I ever layed hands on a 6.0, and I think we did well.

 

Reps sent.

 

Did the dealer happen to return the bad FICM to your dad? If so you still have the chance of checking and possibly repairing it for a possible later use.

 

I did not ask, but my guess is no. Dang, I didn't think about that.

 

dealer wont give it back unless you pay the core charge.
and thanks.