The one I am talking about is in the harness between the solenoid and the firewall.
There is a picture of it early in this thread and that picture is the old style but cut all power like you problem. the connector a lot of times has been hot enough to deform due to corroded wires inside.

 

No he don't have that same connector.

In another picture I saw another wire in the harness with the orange black wire, looked black yellow.

The dome light dim, then out when you pull the head lights on sure sounds like a bad ground to me.

Just for fun, attach a jumper from each battery ground to the fender bolts.

The main battery cables both go to the block, same location on both front corners of the block.

I have added several grounds to mine from the battery grounds to the frame and body to engine block, and it did help with electrical problems.

Also what is the condition of the positive battery cable near the passenger side positive clamp?
Does it look swollen or discolored?

All power to the truck goes through that clamp, and internal corrosion can kill the electrical system.
Not the battery to clamp connection, but inside the clamp where the wire connect and you can't see the problem.

 

i used a battery Jump pack and that did nothing. How big of jumper wire do i need and how do i do it, I have been re wiring my house can i use 12-2 wire wrap it around neg terminal and then connect it to the fender bolt? Also the wires do not look burnt or swollen.

 

If you use the 12-2 that will be fine for a test.

See if that makes the dome light brighter.

If you do one battery at a time, you may find one of them makes it brighter and that would give you a better indication of where to look.

 

the beast is alive kinda, I have power to everything and it turns over. Didnt have time to try anything for starting it as in i have to work. Also i had to modify the ground connection as in the new ground cable the hole is too small so i connected it to the alternator mount as in that goes to the block.

Any ideas for starting my truck now that i have power, it has sat in sub zero weather without starting for a week or more. when it was parked i have a half tank with the power service in her. any advice would be appreciated.

 

Nice work sticking with it and fixing your problem!
Turn your key on and let the plugs cycle for a good 30 seconds to one minute then hold throttle at half and turn her over, if it doesn't fire up in 20 seconds or so then try a little shot of wd40 in the air snorkle, rewarm glow plugs and try again.

 

Just a suggestion when you get a chance get a cable that you can bolt to the block.
The bracket will work, just not as good and these need all the power we can give them.

 

ok Oreilly auto parts didnt have one that would fit a half inch bolt which is what it uses. and its too narrow to try and drill it out. I would have to get one from ford themselves in order to do that.

What does the shot of wd40 do? I thought it was just a lubricant..

 

Wd40 is flamable and will act as starting fluid BUT it's way easier on your engine then ether based starting fluid.

 

ok my next question is how much power will it rob hooking the negative to the alt. mount, I mean it still goes to the Block, i used one of the bolts that go to the block i beleive.

 

Hard to say but it will rob some. Best thing is to just try it out and see how good she cranks over.

 

well when i tested it this morning it cranked better than it did before. Ill go out in the morning and try again.

 

Good luck! Hope she starts up for you!

 

Just wondering if she fired up for ya? Let us know how it worked out.

 

no she didnt fire up yet, She hit once so she is getting fuel but when i got out to check I found out my block heater had been unplugged so I had to let her sit for another day, i brought the batteries in to warm em so they have full power in the morning and plugged her back in. So she should go in the morning plus low is only going to be +22F so that helps.