Can't really tell in the picture but it looks like two fusible links supplying power to the orange black power wire.

Test light and probe the orange black wire.
Does it have any power?

If the links are burnt, power will not be making it to the orange black wire.

Fusible link = wire fuse
Just like a fuse, when one blows it has to be replaced to restore power.

 

No this thread works and yes it is 2 fusibles to the 1 orange black wire. In the morning i will head out and take a voltmeter and possibly buy a test light and do a check to see if power is coming and see if its going so to speak, and go from there. If no power to solenoid i now its somewhere in the battery connections if there is power going into it then it the fuse.

 

Ok guys i took a test light and it showed the fusible link is ok, I hooked clip to plug part of wire and probed into the wire under the link and light lit up. Ive checked fuses and there good only thing left is relays and i dont know how to check them, also need to check the grounds maybe i need to clean the grounds at engine block and frame??

 

i understand the whole 1 thread issue if we want to go back to the old one we can. Also i wont be workign on the truck for a couple of days as in were supposed toget 10-12 inches of snow today and thursday and i have no garage. So Friday ill be back on here hopefully with the good news that it at least has power.

 

thanks dave, Do have another question or opinion i should say, would anyone I guess in there right mind go out and work on the truck in -3F weather plus windchill without garage? its looking like on top of the snow we are now not supposed to be above zero till sunday and i do kinda need this thing going... Also dont have money for towing or to have garage look at it cause im sure that would be a couple hundred dollars that i dont have.

 

Gotta do what ya gotta do,I froze working on mine today,it made it up to 44!BRRRR!

 

man 44 degrees would be awesome, id have power figured out and shed be running perfectly. Well i guess ill have to throw on my carhartts and mask but gloves dont really work working on stuff

 

big ottis your truck should be set up like my 91. on the passenger fender there is a starter solenoid with two wires coming off the hot side, the two wires (cant make out color its ether blk or d grn)go into a fuse link and one big yellow wire out the other side of the link. if you have juice from the hot terminal on the solenoid to the big yellow wire then i would say the link is good (if not bad). the large yellow wire runs around the front of the radiator and goes into the side of the relay box on the drivers side fender well. if you look at the relay box between the box and the fender you will see a black cover about 1/2 thick mounted to the side of the relay box. slide this cover straight up and you will see where the yellow power wire conects to the relay box with a 7/16 nut. at this nut if you take your voltage tester and it reads 12volt then you know 2 things that fuse link is definatly not blown and you have juice to this point lol. from this point the power is distributed through relays and fuses and also feeds juice to the inside of the cab through another fuse box. check to make sure the 7/16 nut is not corroded and tight. if everything is clean and tight then its relay swapping and fuse testing time. hope this helps and if yours isnt set up like this disregard this reply.

 

Stole Rupe's picture he did such a good job.

Ok looking at the picture, I am going to say the big red wire is from the battery.
After looking some, the black orange should be going to the alternator.

That terminal od the starter relay is the main power distribution point, so one of the other wires on that terminal carries power into the fuse panel/cab.

I did not specify, but when you check fusible links, you have to probe the wire beyond the fusible link.

If you do have a fuse panel on the drivers side I would see if power is making it over there before it goes in the cab.
If you have no power over there, then you need to concentrate between that panel and the battery.

I am not that familiar with the 93 wiring, do they pull from the drivers side battery or only from the passenger side?

 

both both i beleive?? The driver side battery has a ground wire goes to frame and hot wire goes across radiator support to passanger side. Passanger side ground is to the block and the hot splits into 2 one i assume to starter other to solenoid.
Ill have to check the fuse panel on the driver side fender see if there is power. I bought a voltmeter from wal mart and it doesnt work Ill have to take it back. I used house hold batteries to test it and wouldnt read anything it has a 9 and 1.5 setting so i used the smoke detector battery and a couple of AA and it wouldnt read and batteries were good.

 

the main posatve power feed comes from the starter solenoid on the pas side and is routed in front of the radiator to the relay box on the drivers side fender. the main neg comes off of the drivers side battery. on the side of the relay box between the box and the fender theres a 1/2 wide plastic cover that covers the terminal for the 12volt feed. if you dont have power there then you you have a issue between the solenoid and that terminal. after the terminal block i would start pulling relays and seeing if they have a constant 12 volt feed.

 

ill have to check, wont be till sunday probably wont be above 0 till then, unless i just suck it up and head out there in the morning.

 

Cowboy up...

 

I feel your pain on the cold but it's gotta be done sometimes. I just spent my 4 day holiday weekend in 15 degree weather learning my glow plug system and re-wiring/replacing parts to get mine to start without the block heater. This is my first diesel but not my first rodeo on wiring or turning wrenches, in fact wiring has always been a strong point of mine. The guys on here know these trucks and helped me fix my problems, just follow their direction and you should be able to get it.

Mines a 92 and my wiring is just as these guys describe, I had to clean multiple connections both ground and hot to get the proper voltage to both my gp relay and my headlights but now my truck is starting everyday and driving me 45 miles round trip to work and back.

If you need any pictures, wiring diagrams etc just let me know, will be happy to scan my books or take photos for you. I cannot post out my out of the three manuals I bought on the web due to copyright but I will email them to you or link you to ones I found online.

Maybe it's just me but I would rather spend the day working on my Ford in the cold then driving around in a dodge or chevy

 

i guess ill have to man up in the morning, Is there a way to test relays without swapping them can i use a jumper wire to see what happens?