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Well I can only reply to what the invoice appeared to say. Whenever I take something to be repaired I always get a bill/invoice itemizing the parts with their cost plus labor. The invoice should also have the terms of payment along with the terms of warranty. No doubt though the sooner the better to bring it to their attention. Good luck.
hmm.interesting.
well,that pic does make it look pretty bad.
the odd thing is tho,you didn't have this problem prior tho right?
could be just one of those things,where now you have a starter with more/fresh power,and the quick spins she now provides is enough to skip those bad teeth,where before,since it spun slower,perhaps it dogged into them,and spun slower without the big/quick jerk you get with a good starter.
now the new starter quickly spinning/starting off quick,was enough to make the old flywheel finally wear more to have problems.
well bummer.hope ya find a good deal on one.
man,i bet that E40D is heavy.your in for some fun.
hey,since your in there.its cheap insurance to replace that front pump seal on the trans.you can do the rear easy enough at any time.but its a good time to replace both if you do need to replace that flywheel.
well I inspected the flywheel the best I could. No missing teeth at all. Flywheel is tight. Theirs a few with a little nick out of them, but nothing major. Gonna put the starter back in and hope for the best. Wish me luck guys.
keep a 1/2 wrench handy,so if she sticks again,and the key off wont kill it,you can quickly unhook the cable on the pass side,cus like star was saying,it sounds like your solenoid may be going.
Last edited by FORDF250HDXLT; Jan 20, 2010 at 09:03 PM.
Reason: pass side.not drivers oops.
You can have bad teeth on the ring gear but it is not usually a problem on these.
I'm wandering how they checked the starter (loaded or freespin) one of the rebuild shops I used to deal with had a jig rigged up with the starter on a hinge where they could test it by putting pressure on the starter with the teeth on a 2x4 clamped to a table to test haw many amps it pulled under load.
John low power can also cause it not to kick in hard, but I would think if you had enough battery power to start it it would be enough to kick in the bendix.
This is the reason that unless I am working on something with obsolete parts starters and alt get replaced instead of rebuilt.
John you might be able to get by by filing the teeth there should be only a few of them bad.
You can have bad teeth on the ring gear but it is not usually a problem on these.
I'm wandering how they checked the starter (loaded or freespin) one of the rebuild shops I used to deal with had a jig rigged up with the starter on a hinge where they could test it by putting pressure on the starter with the teeth on a 2x4 clamped to a table to test haw many amps it pulled under load.
John low power can also cause it not to kick in hard, but I would think if you had enough battery power to start it it would be enough to kick in the bendix.
This is the reason that unless I am working on something with obsolete parts starters and alt get replaced instead of rebuilt.
John you might be able to get by by filing the teeth there should be only a few of them bad.
Well got the starter back in today. Had her plugged in for a couple hours prior to trying to start it. I unturned the fuel filter a little bit and she was full to the top. Its been a few days since the last time she was run, so im assuming this is proof that my return lines are good. 27*f out, and she fired right up. Starter didnt stick or nothin this time. Hopefully this is the end of my problems for a while now. If shes good to me, ill reward her with some new injectors and IP. Feels good to hear the straight pipe again!
Well starter has performed flawlessly thus far. Still not starting like i would like it to, but its much improved. What else should I be checking? Starter is good, return lines are good. GPs tested good via the test light method. Injectors and IP could probly both do with replacing or rebuilding. I dont know how old they are. What else could cause slow starts?
I have found even with a wore but functioning IP and injectors they will still start quick , may miss and smoke a little at start up but still crank. glowplugs heating properly return lines which if your filter is staying full should be fine, and batteries and cables are the most important, heavy on the batteries and cables. to start fast these things need to spin fast.
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