Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Fast idle toggle swich on hold.And more?'s

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:49 PM
rckslash2010's Avatar
rckslash2010
rckslash2010 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Northren MN.
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Fast idle toggle swich on hold.And more?'s

I went out today to start working on my new project. I found the temp. sensor unplugged so I plugged it in. I turned the key on and within a few second smoke started rolling from the wires around it, I found out why it was unplugged. It must be a bad sensor. I then proceeded to take one end of a jumper wire and touched it on the pos. of the battery and touched the other end on the high idle solenoid, nothing happened so that tells me that the solenoid is bad. I called the parts store and they couldn't find it on the computer, so I took it off and brought it in and they still couldn't find anything, I must have to order it from ford themselves. Is there any way to get it off the bracket that attaches to the i.p, or does that come with a new bracket also? If not, how do I get it off? The part ordering will have to wait till monday.

I then took my jumper wire and hooked it up to both posts on the temp sensor, when I did that I could here a clicking in the injector pump, that must be my cold advance. I put a test light on the fast idle plug and got a light so I know that it's getting power, and there's 3 more wires on the end of the wire cluster that have bullet ends on them like glow plug ends. Are these for some kind of fuel heater? 2 of them were hot when I tested them. Where would the plug in for any kind of a fuel heater be at? What I'm thinking is that this truck came with a 7.3 but along the way someone put a 6.9 in it. I can't tell the difference, and there may be extra wires.

So would it be a good idea to hook the toggle switch into the wires for the temp. sensor? That way I would have control over not only the fast idle, but the cold advance and what ever kind of heater I can find to hook up. I don't want to change the temp. sensor I want to have the control.

I'm loading some pics of the motor, the first pic. I was wondering what these are? The ends look like glow plugs and I was wondering if they were some sensors, or something else to preheat the engine.


These next 2 are of the fuel filter, I was wondering where I could plug them hot wires in at?




Tomorrow morning, I'm going to invent a fast idle stick. Instead of screwing around wasting my time, trying to get all this high tech stuff to actually work.I'm going to grab a branch off a tree and break it off. Next, I'm going to shove it between the accelerator of the truck and the seat until the tack. reads 1100 and leave it there for 10 minutes. By then everything should be warmed up. After all it's suppose to be 27 below, pretty crazy. And I have to work outside too.
 
  #2  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:58 PM
starmilt's Avatar
starmilt
starmilt is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Faibanks Ak.
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Ok it looks like the fuel heater is gone or at least part of it , but it went where that brass looking thing on the top of your filter header is. The wires probably went to it and to the water in fuel sensor. Now just giving the fast idle solonoid 12 volts will not make it work you also have to throttle it manually then it will hold it when you let off.
 
  #3  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:59 PM
PLC7.3's Avatar
PLC7.3
PLC7.3 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
THE FAST IDLE SOLENOID DOES NOT PUSH THE FUEL PEDAL....... IT ONLY FILLS IN THE HOLE YOU MAKE WITH THE ACCELLERATOR PEDAL PUSHED BEFORE START ATTEMPT.
 
  #4  
Old 01-01-2010, 06:19 PM
LCAM-01XA's Avatar
LCAM-01XA
LCAM-01XA is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
The two objects circled in red on that pic are temperature sensors, one is for the gauge and the other for the "check engine" light.
Originally Posted by starmilt
Ok it looks like the fuel heater is gone or at least part of it , but it went where that brass looking thing on the top of your filter header is. The wires probably went to it and to the water in fuel sensor. Now just giving the fast idle solonoid 12 volts will not make it work you also have to throttle it manually then it will hold it when you let off.
The fuel heater is still here - that brass thing ain't no brass, but just the plastic connector for the heater plug, I had to look twice to make sure. Also, I see there is no vacuum switch to trigger the "fuel filter" light on the dashboard, so that would make for another loose wire. And if there is another wire dangling loose, that's for the water-in-fuel sensor in the sediment bowl. As for the fast idle solenoid, it works much like electric choke on a carburetor - you have to give it 12V to energize it, but you also have to push down on the throttle pedal to let it set.
 
  #5  
Old 01-01-2010, 07:39 PM
Dave Sponaugle's Avatar
Dave Sponaugle
Dave Sponaugle is offline
Post Fiend

Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Nutter Fort, WV
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 13 Posts


The bracket for the fast idle solenoid bolts on the side of the IP.
MWFI has them listed for 144 dollars, but no picture.
When you supply power to the terminal, it should take up any slack between the throtle linkage and the solenoid, but will not push the throttle open.

Electrical connection on top of the fuel filter, fuel heater.
Electrical connection on the bottom, water in fuel.
On some trucks there was a filter restriction sensor on the side of the filter header, but I see a plug in that location on yours, far right beside the return line in the bottom picture.
 
  #6  
Old 01-01-2010, 07:44 PM
rckslash2010's Avatar
rckslash2010
rckslash2010 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Northren MN.
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the quick responses. I forgot about the water in fuel light, and I was thinking that the thing on top of the separator looked like an electrical plug to me but I wasn't sure. It's just missing the other end. There is an other wire hanging there without an end to it. I didn't cheak to see if it had any power going to it.

Here the whole time I was thinking the solenoid actuator pushed the throttle open on the side of the ip. I'm not sure about filling any kind of void. Maybe theres something else I'm missing. Now I'm really lost on how this acually works.

Maybe the best thing for me to do is buy a new temp senser and go from there and maybe cheak into that missing fuel heater plug. It would be nice to have all these things in working order. I won't be able to get to anything until Sunday. Feel free to chime in if anyone has any more idea, thanks again.
 
  #7  
Old 01-01-2010, 07:50 PM
rckslash2010's Avatar
rckslash2010
rckslash2010 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Northren MN.
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle


The bracket for the fast idle solenoid bolts on the side of the IP.
MWFI has them listed for 144 dollars, but no picture.
When you supply power to the terminal, it should take up any slack between the throtle linkage and the solenoid, but will not push the throttle open.

Electrical connection on top of the fuel filter, fuel heater.
Electrical connection on the bottom, water in fuel.
On some trucks there was a filter restriction sensor on the side of the filter header, but I see a plug in that location on yours, far right beside the return line in the bottom picture.
Will the actuator on an operable solenoid move at all when you apply power to it?
Maybe the solenoid is fine, it's just me that doesn't know. For 144 bucks I'll just use a stick.
 
  #8  
Old 01-01-2010, 08:25 PM
Dave Sponaugle's Avatar
Dave Sponaugle
Dave Sponaugle is offline
Post Fiend

Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Nutter Fort, WV
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 13 Posts


In that picture you can see a space beteen the plunger and throttle linkage.
When power is applied the plunger should come out against the linkage, but not push the linkage.
 
  #9  
Old 01-01-2010, 08:25 PM
87crewdually's Avatar
87crewdually
87crewdually is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: So. Jersey
Posts: 6,493
Received 90 Likes on 65 Posts
If you put power to it you must then PUSH the THROTTLE arm to SET it. The solinoid won't move the throttle arm itself, it will only hold it.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BLADE35
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
36
01-08-2015 04:50 PM
sammie0126
Excursion - King of SUVs
29
08-20-2014 06:06 PM
maverick600
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
71
06-14-2014 08:31 AM
sammie0126
Excursion - King of SUVs
24
03-07-2014 04:40 AM
iamme81702
Excursion - King of SUVs
13
10-17-2010 09:34 PM



Quick Reply: Fast idle toggle swich on hold.And more?'s



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:38 PM.