Here are a few pictures of my Carter fuel pump mod.

 

Which pump is that, the P4070 or P4594?

 

looks nice JHoffman93.
wow,you really wanted to protect that pump.
i just used a standard fuel filter,and plan on changing it every other oil change.
you don't like a good diesel bath when you change the filter hey? lol.can't blame ya there.good idea with the shut off.

the only part i see id change about yours,is that scotchlok connector on the FSS.
man,some people like 'em.but iv never had any luck with the things.always around 1 year or so,they always lose their connection on me.gave up on those a while back.
i dont mean to be critical.just sharing my experiences with them.

 

To be honest I am not 100% sure. I think it is a P4389. I bought it from Poorman's Auto and it was in an AC Delco box. I couldn't find a number on the pump. I went on line and compared pics and specs with other Carter pumps and it looks to be the 4389. Why do you ask?

 

I found the filter on Craig's list for a great price, I bought a cheap in-line filter but I was afraid that it wouldn't handle Bio diesel very well. I was going to solder the connection but couldn't find my soldering iron. So I used the scotchlok. If it turns out to be unreliableI guess I'll have to break down and buy another iron and re-do the connection.

 

that is almost exactly the same set as i have. i'll get pics later today.

edit

 

Yotee, how long have you had your pump? I looked around for a long time before deciding on the Carter pump. Any problems?

 

I second the get rid of the Scotch Lock connector.

You know it will fail out in the middle of nowhere, probably at night in a driving rain/snow storm.

Also after you solder the connection, seal the connection with liquid tape to keep water out of the conductors.


That was a nice clean install, EXCEPT for the Scotch Lock.

Sorry, just had to say that.

 

OK, I guess I'll just have to go out and buy myself a new soldering iron with my gift money I got for Christmas so I can do the job right. LOL

 

LOL if you have had the experiance I have had with them $%^& scotch you would cut the wire and twist them together first. They should be taken off the market.

 

I also second that about twisting the wires together being better.

Don't tell me they use those things on airplanes.

I think if you spliced two wires together in a sealed box, that never moved, never had any vibration, never got wet inside and heaven forbid ever had any salt spray in it, they are fine.
But I don't think they have any use in any location on a vehicle.

One of my first experiences with them was on a U Haul installed trailer wiring problem.
They used those nice connectors to attach the wires to the stock wiring.

A guy I know had it on his truck, one brake light and the back up lights were the only lights on his truck, and none of the trailer lights worked.
U Haul had even done a decent job taping everything back together after the install, so I started up toward the front of the truck, where everything did have power.

So cut it apart.
Enough water/salt had gotten to the connectors that the stock wiring had corroded completely through where they broke the insulation on the wires, the ends of the trailer pig tails were also corroded off.

Soldering iron, good electrical tape and an hour later, everything worked again.

Today with better stuff like heat shrink and liquid tape, you can do a much better job that never needs repaired.
I am starting to put crimp on connectors in almost as bad as those connectors, but you can solder the crimp ons as well as crimp them.

 

I have heat activated shrink tubing. I will solder the connection as soon as I get an iron. On airplanes we have special crimp on connectors. In this application you would cut the FSS wire and crimp a connector on both ends and one on the trip wire. Then we have a nice little rubber deal that all three wires would lock into making a weather proof connection. They don't come apart. There is a special spoon that can unlock the connection if you ever have to disconnect the wires. The problem is the crimps are about $300 and I'd have to steal the other bits from work, not a good idea. I'll just solder and heat shrink it. I may put a dab of solder on the other connectors as well, I have plenty of extra wire, I could cut them off and redo them. If you ever had this kind of wiring on an airplane it would corrode and fall apart.

 

it's been like that for around two years. no problems when tho PO had it and none for me. i thought i had a pump going out cause it was making wierd noises, but turns out that is what it sounds like when sucking air on an empty tank

 

Just out of curiosity, that's all - the 4070 and the 4594 seem to be most common for this application, from what I see as far as pressure and flowrate go your 4389 is essentially a marine-grade 4070 - which is good, the 4070 is know to last like forever, and the fact it's marine means it's even more elements-proof, which is rather important considering where it's mounted on the truck.

 

Thats good to hear. I wasn't sure what pump to get. All I knew for sure was that I wanted something a little beefier then a Mr. Gasket pump although several guys are using them and haven't had any problems. I was afraid that you were going to tell me I screwed up and needed to find a different pump when you asked me what model Carter I had.