63 f250 4x4 stepside.

things are coming along good on my drivetrain but need to get a part for rear axle. my mechanic said no big deal he can make it work the way it is but i'd rather have new part.

sorry this will sound like a word game but here is what i need:
on each outer end of rear axle. holds i believe the hub on?. looks alot like a spindle lock washer i see on the 4x4 quad website except mine has fewer outside tabs. the outside tabs are to be bent forward to lock the thing in place. mine is supposed to also have an interior tab to hold the hub in place on the axle but the tabs busted off.

i'd like to buy a new one if someone can give me the correct number or name so i know what to ask for and maybe a supplier (sounds like a number dummy question). i guess we assumed the local parts store doesn't carry it but if someone has the proper teminology i'll give the store a call. thanks.

side note. got some good news, my speedo says 35000mi so i was wondering 35000 or 135000. my mechanic, after taking my drivetrain apart is guessing 35000 original miles. everything except the brakes look new and the points of wear he looked at are consistent with a low milage vehicle. one odd thing the axle oil is black as heII. mechanic says he thinks older john deere tractors(he's more of a heavy machinery mechanic than an auto mechanic) used black oil from the factory but he hasn't seen it in years.

thanks for any help.
scott

 

sounds like it's a lock ring or lock washer- and available in autoparts store near you. good.

 

Is this tab before or behind the wheel drums? If before sounds like your brakes have never being removed and 3500 is a possible good sign that they havn't. I'm not sure if they used the safety clips on the drums back then.

Mitch

 

I had to replace the same part. I took it in to the local parts house. They didn't have it in stock, but they held it up to a chart to match the size, ordered it and they had it for me the next day. I think "lock ring" was the term we threw at it at the time.
That inside diameter tab is very important. It keeps the lock nut from turning the adjusting nut when tightened to torque. I bought a monster sized socket to fit that lock nut and only used it that one time. I'd be happy to pass it on to anyone that could use it as I sold my F250 and sent the truck to Alaska.

 

611124 .. Rear Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Washer / 1 27/32" I.D. / 2 3/4" O.D. / 1/16" thick / Obsolete

Fits: 1948/52 F2/F3 // 1953/55 F350 // 1953/68 F250 and 1969 F250 before serial number F30,001.

KLIMESH MOTOR SALES in Calmar IA has 1 = 563-562-3241.

LUCAS MOTOR CO. in Lucas KS has 2 = 785-525-7778.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 4 = 800-546-7278.

JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has 5 = 615-443-3086.

DOTTS MOTOR CO. in Clearfield PA has 7 = 814-765-9681.

PLEASANTVILLE FORD in Pleasantville NY has 8 = 914-769-1800.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 19 = 800-543-4959.
---------------------------------------------------------
Note: 1969 F250 from serial number F30,001; 1970/85 F250: The lock washer is different: B6Y1124A = 2 1/32" I.D x 2 15/16" O.D.

 

the what i think is a "Rear Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Washer" is if i remember correctly before the hubs as you set and take the wheels off, i think my truck may actually be a 3500mi vehicle but i guess you never know for sure. gonna run a pressure check on the cylinders and see what that says. side note the brake pads were rivet type and fell apart when the drums came off, seems i've been stopping on the fronts only. the rear drums were rusted bad and fred chiped one(minor) getting it off but they were still thick and didn't need turned. we decided to put the new ones numberdummy found for me on and repair the old ones for spares. the fronts were good also. i've been lucky in that everything other than breaks just needs cleaned up. will replace seals while it's apart though.

it's funny oldblu should mention a monster size socket. i was down to my mechanic's shop and he was unwrapping a "monster sized socket" said he he never needed one before till my antique showed up. i offered to buy it and leave it but he figured he might use it some day.

well looks like from ND's post i might as well check with green sales to see what their price is. i've been calling them alot lately.

thank you for all the help.
scott

 

Something to consider:

Ford Dealers are usually cheaper when it comes to selling obsolete parts, because they are STUCK with them, as the parts can no longer be returned to Ford.

Obsolete parts vendors...like Green Sales, on the other hand, are usually more expensive, because they make their living selling obsolete parts.

 

thanks for the advice dummberdummy. i do usually check around via a bunch of phone calls. if i can get it cheaper "in town" i'll but it there, although on some stuff i'll pay more for factory ford depending on what it is and whether i want to wait on it(occansionaly i do get scewerd but hopefully thats minimal). have to admit i'm a little **** when it comes to "original equipment".

and by the way thanks for the guidence on finding parts. old ford trucks aren't my area so i do appreciate your help in particular and this forum as well as slick 60's in general. makes things alot easier for me.

scott.

 

I think if you give your local parts house a chance, they can get this part for you quickly and for just a couple of bucks. I know mine came from a generic hardware supply company.