I have called four local dealers and found everyone wants $340.00 for a plug change without issues. If a plug breaks it is labor by the hour. One dealer said they cap it at an hour per plug and the max they will charge will be $700.00 for a plug change.

Worth the money or attempt it myself? I do not have the special removal tool if it breaks, but I am very good with engines.

Can someone post a link to the removal instructions or TSB for plug change? I have read to let the plugs soak in carb cleaner on one posting and with penetrating oil in another. Just want to make sure I am doing it correctly. The dealer I spoke to today said "we let them soak, bring it back to temp and let them soak again" didn't say with what but he did say they never back them off and tighten them down again because this is where the breakoff usually happens.

My next question is a step by step for the cam phasers. One dealer said today it is $254.00 per side for parts plus hourly labor.

I would like to tackle the cam phasers IF i do not have to take out the cams. I have been told if I wedge the timing chains and then lock the cams in place with "vice grips" I can remove and replace the phasers?

Has anyone done this successfully themselves and did you take notes?

My truck has almost 90k miles and is an 04 SCREW FX4 with the 5.4 3V motor.

Also it has the backfire problem when you hit the accelerator. Has anyone found the REAL problem on theirs or is everyone still chasing their tail? I hear MAF, Fuel Filter, Plugs, Cats, Coil, ect.

Thanks for the help I have come to you guys because I trust those who have been in the battle themselves.

Semper Fi,

Rod

 

I believe this is still the current TSB for plug removal. http://www.revivalogistics.com/docum...28-59%20AM.pdf If you decide to do it yourself. Buy the Lisle tool, it seems to work best of the many that are out there. Here's the details on that tool. Lisle Ford Triton Spark Plug Extractor But this may not be the best price or a good place to buy from, it's just what came up in google.

SSP Mustang, nice!! I've got a 93 Cobra myself.

 

I will be changing out both phasers and plugs within the next week. I printed out the following for the phasers, from a member on this site..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...placement.html

For the plugs I printed out the following TSB which to my knowledge is the most recent.

06-15-2***SPARK PLUG REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS - 5.4 3V

I will be posting back how everything went. Good luck to you.

Ron

 

Can't help with the phasers, but here's my Lessons Learned from when I changed the plugs on BOTH my 3V 5.4L engines: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8219650

May the force be with you...

 

Thanks guys. This is what I am looking for in regards to directions. I am a visual learner so the photo's help me understand what I should expect to face.

Are the spark plug tools or wedge able to be rented or purchased at any of the chain parts stores?

Rod

 

I don't believe the wedge is, but the Lisle is available at O'reilly's for $100.

 

OK here is where I'm currently at on the project. BTW the truck has to be rolling for work on Monday so any help would be great.

I have the third plug back on both sides out without issue. The front plug on the driver’s side required the Lisle tool. The second and 4th plug on the driver side both are turning in the cyl with the plug not coming out.

When I used the Lisle tool it broke the electrode band on the bottom of plug one on the driver's side. I put a shop vac to the cyl and got a chunk of porcelain out but the metal strip never turned up. I plan to crank the motor without any plugs before replacing the plugs.

Two questions at 2:49 am.

1st Is there a trick to the lisle tool so you do not break off the metal band when pulling the shield out?

2nd question: If the nut on the plug turns out and then spins with the porcelain intact in the cyl do you break the porcelain off and then pull out the remaining piece with the Lisle tool?

Thanks for the help,

Rod

 

Rod,
1) No, the metal band has to break for the porcelain to go down far enough so that the tap as room to bite. However, make sure you don't over tighten the tap. It only requires about 3 to 4 full turns. If you get some trash pushed into the cylinder rig up the vacuum or a grease probe and sweep the cylinder.

2) Yes. This is where the long reach pliers come in handy. You can remove the thread nut, then grab the top of the plug and PULL. It will either pull out the porcelain complete, or separate at the ground shield. Then get the rest out with the Lisle.

 

OK here is the update.

I am down to one plug. The back plug on the drivers side.

It has come to a point of just spinning in the cyl so I know the nut has broken loose but I can not seem to get the plug to break off. I have tried both sets of plyers with no avail. I am taking a break before going back out to battle the damn thing.

I will say after using the lisle tool it is not awful on those plugs you can see. When the lisle tool pulls loose and you don't have the bottom sheild you can feel your heart sink. I have had this happen twice and ran the first set of pushers down before using the puller again to get out the shield. Whoever invented this plug needs fired if anyone from ford is listening.

Rod

 

OK all plugs are out. (Without the Lisle tool this would be impossible.)

I broke 6 of 8 and I let the soak on a warm to touch engine after a 1/8 turn for 30 minutes. Then soak again. I followed the TSB to the letter and it still was a bear with almost 90k miles.

I have four plugs back in with anti sieze but I do not believe this is the issue as much as the lower heat shield sticking. The plugs themselves came out with just a little effort.

I have worked on Fords for over 20 years and built almost every engine possible in a Ford from the late 90's back but man these things were not impossible but just a plain pain in the butt. Once you use the Lisle tool once you realize how simple it is but how scary it can be is always in the back of your head if it pulls loose without the shield.

I can't thank you guys enough for the info and the advice. Time to put four more plugs in and test drive.

Semper Fi,

Rod

 

Rod,
Congratulations! It's good to hear another owner that has beat the plug problem. I'll be doing mine soon, so every story I hear with a happy ending gives me a bit more confidence. I need to pick up one of those extractor tools.

Dale