Unless its been overhauled and comes with a build sheet, NO.

1989 is not a good year, and there are some compatibility issues between 1989 and your year of truck. Swapping out the solenoid body might work from what I've been told. If it is indeed a factory stock transmission, it will be weaker than what you have and won't last as long. You might get some time out of it if you go easy though.

If you wanted to use it as a core and build it up, then that might be ok, but even then, $550 is too much for a core.

Might be worth calling to ask about the history of the transmission. If its been rebuilt by ford anytime after 1994 or 1995 (and unless its a low mile tranny, it probably was), then it would be a good build.

 

did you check your local salvage yards too?
maybe a better idea,as most will give at least 30 days to make sure it works good at least.
(thats kinda steep from private party,and that year, with no 30 day/as is, imho.junk yards can match/beat that)
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

from researching,the reason that flow stops is not mechanical.the problem seems to be that a lot of fluid is required to engage reverse,and this is the reason why flow does not pass through the cooler (its being used to engage reverse and there is not enough pressure left over to flow,is my understanding.)

this seems to be a good idea for those rebuilding the E40D too:
Heavy-Duty Low / Reverse Modulator Sleeve Kit, 1996 Up E4OD / 4R100

#20MS. The holding capacity of even the largest modulator plunger valve assembly does not supply enough line pressure to the low/reverse clutch to adequately hold the clutch in diesel or heavy-duty applications. This same issue will occur in gas and street applications as the vehicle ages and wear at multiple locations continues to rob line pressure. Sonnax has developed an innovative, dual-plunger valve drop-in replacement assembly that prevents repeated low/reverse clutch distress and burn-up. The inboard, smaller plunger valve has the ratio of the larger OEM plunger valve, but functions primarily as the engagement control for the low/reverse clutch. A small orifice along the valve axis prevents harsh or bang engagements by maintaining a controlled feed flow to the larger, outboard holding valve. This valve provides almost double the holding capacity to the low/reverse clutch as the OEM valve. Both valves are hard-coat anodized to prevent wear, and the newly designed sleeve is made from a highly wear-resistant grade of aluminum. A new spring is also included to work with the new valves. We have found this part to be bad on almost everyone we checked. (This part always wears out 99% of the time and should be replaced on every rebuild.) Cost $68.00
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/e4od.htm

oops.correction to my earlier post:
trans fluid should be flushed/changed every 30k not 50k.

 

Strange. I've never heard it explained that way before but it seems reasonable.

Any pressure loss must be made up for with increased flow. Pre 95 Pumps are not flowing as much to begin with so I could see that as being a problem as the transmission ages. No wonder ford changed the pump later on.

Thanks for the info.

 

The fluid doesn't stop flowing in reverse. The real problem is the sloppy tolerance in the low/reverse clutch pack. Plus the tranny is feeding more than one circuit at the same time. You can fix the problem easily by tightening the the tolerance a little. 40 thou works good 20 thou is better You can do this by using thicker frictions and steels. Another way is to add a friction and a steel, then machine the pressure plate to achieve the spec. The first way is easier for somebody doing this for first time.

This trick plus the Tugger kit will fix the the over heating in reverse too.

 

well there's 3 theories or facts with the E40D reverse problem.
i wouldn't be surprised if all 3 are true and contribute to the problem.
iv never tested to see if flow continues in reverse.it would be easy to check i suppose.
anyone wanna play myth busters? lol.

here is the fix trackspeeder speaks of:

FORD E40D DELAYED REVERSE FIX KIT™
ALTO KIT #26759

http://www.altousa.com/ib26759.htm

they also make the statement here:
"Simply stated, the E4OD is a "thirsty" unit in terms of reverse apply clutch fill volume"

so it would be interesting to know,if pump flow while in reverse does stop through the cooler,or slow considerably due to this.interesting.

 

Shopping list

Ford E4OD Diesel Xtreme Duty Master Rebuild Kit

E4OD Hard Parts Update Kit
E4OD and 4R100E Performance Products

Still haven't decided what convertor I want to go with any suggestions. Would it be worth it to run a 4r100 pump or should I just put the stuff from the trans go shift kit in the original pump?

 

here is the torque converter i am using.
http://www.transtar1.com/technicalHT...2&ppp=35&ppn=2
it was $475 through the transmission shop, but have seen them on ebay alot cheaper. I didn't have time to wait for the one from ebay.

 

the cooler flow never stops on the E4OD , and is not affected by any gear selection
however the only upgrade needed in the hydraulics is the pump correction kit
no shift kit , ive seen plenty of issues and failures caused by them
in fact a friend of mine that also repairs ford only transmissions has a complete list of shift kits so that he can identify them and remove them during a rebuild with that said
your 94 pump is fine just use the correction kit on it
the center support will be the bearing style on the 94
the only hard part i would upgrade is to the steel overdrive planet carrier
and the other planetaries of aluminum construction will not need upgrading due to the pump correction kit improving the lube circuits
as for a torque converter those billet converters are good ol wallet flushers
once again converter issues are also correcetd with the pump correction kit
i recommend a converter from precision of new hampshire inc. ask for one of their RV style converters it the only one i put behind a diesel
they do have a billet converter if you must have one
and last the forward clutch drum has never had an issue of cracking on the E4OD
either the clucth plate splines have stripped off , teh clucth has burned out , or in some cases due to high heat the ceneter support feed bolt locktite was softened and teh bolt backed off enough it no longer seals and yes thie happens more than onemight think
and last but not least the most important step in this rebiuld is to have an inch pound torque wrench to tighten the center support bolts too looseand the bolst leak , too tight and the case is warped and internal leakage results and i have seen cases destroyed due to overtorquing
the small feed bolt os 100 inch pounds teh two large ones 120 inch pounds

 

Are you talking about the precision of new hampton RV convertor I waqs checking it out and it seems like a pretty sweet unit, I'm Just woundering how much power it will hold because I may want to put a 6bt cummins in my truck at some point and I only want to build this trans once, hence red eagle frictions. The way I see it is If I build it to hold up to the 500+ HP cummins I want to some day run in it, it should last for a long long time with the turboed 6.9 in front of it.

 

Take a look at this guys stuff. Racer X He has a great converter plus many other parts for the DIY person.

 

Using this kit makes it easy.

 

Right now the convertor I'm wanting is the precission of new hampton RV max convertor
Ford Heavy Duty Torque Converters by Precision of New Hampton, Inc.

 

sorry about that i typed in a hurry , you have the correct one that i was talking about
i always use just the rv style and have never had one fail yet over the last 15 years
those kits for $495.00 too much really , and the red line extra stacked clutches when 6 are installed in the forwrad drum the last one doesnt even contact the drive hub splines due to the parts clearences , 4 good quality plates in the forward work fine on the e4od but if you like you can delete the cushion spring and install a 5th plate with a more firm drive engagement , you see the forward clutch is applied when shifting into the drive position and it never releases during all forward gear operations so it is not a shifting clutch and slippage isnt an issue
those billet input and output shafts i get a laugh out of them
i have repaired many e4od and 4r100,s since its inception in 89 and have never seen any of the shafts sheered or broken
i have seen them damaged from bushing failures that go back to the lube circuit issue that the pump correction kit addresses , i only use the one that superior offers it is the best one , it requires installing one plug and drilling two holes , i do not however use the babbit bushing they supply i will only use a stock replacement bronze bushing
and stick to the drill sizes they supply ,bigger is not better here , doing so causes other failures
and i have never seen anyone state anything about replacing the critical bushings that are required during a rebiuld to prevent repeat failures
the case bushings rear sun gear bushings and the pump bushing are a must do
they will be worn out and failing to replace them will cause the forward planetary gear set to overheat and melt
aluminum melts at 1100 degrees and i have seen the carrier melted due to the lack of lubrication
everyone says you need the steel planetary for this reason but it will still fail the carrier will be intact but the gears will fail from the same old lack of lubrication
the steel overdrive carrier is a good idea because the aluminum ones did have an issue after the teeth wear in them they would cam out and split the carrier hub and then the splines
there are two different length input shafts so you will need to check compatibility with the new planetary and also the thrust washer that goes with the new planet and is compatible with the input sprag clutch
another area of major issue is one that again no one has addressed on the forums is the center support wear on both the support and the case
once they are worn there is a major alignment issue of the supports center line and when it is offset due to the wear the forward clucthes burnt out quickly because the oil rings cannot seal from an incorrect contact angle
i have seen transmissions that didnt finish the road test after a rebuild because this issue was not corrected
replacing the support only corrects 1/2 half of the wear issue and still will have alignment issues , check your support on the outer perimeter edge where it contacts the case and you will see severe errosion of the aluminum on both the support and the case
the fix that will correct and also prevent it in the future is to have somone with a brake rotor lathe remove .050 of material from the rear of the supports outer edge where it contacts the case then install a steel snap ring ford part# E6FZ 7D483 A into the case after installing the intermediate clutches this snap ring will restore the case support contact area and prevent future wear

 

I always wondered about the chryo hardened shafts and if they are worth anything. So far you are telling me what I want to hear. I did hear about the overdrive carrier weakness though (spine and carrier failures) since thats the first part of the geartrain that takes power from the engine regardless of what gear you are in. Some describe the spines being stripped by the input shaft causing a no drive condition. That alone was reason enough for me to go with the steel upgrade.

Some one told me of a neutral drop situation where the input shaft was snapped, but the obvious answer to that is DON'T NEUTRAL DROP! LOL.
But I wasn't there either, so it might have just been a story.

I agree about the red eagle clutch pack but hear many people using them anyway. If the same basic design was good enough for the C6, why not the E4OD?

The compatibility issues that you mention with upgrade parts is one of the big reasons I always mention the update book in addition to the overhaul manual. Only takes one missed detail like that to ruin an otherwise good overhaul.