Rear HVAC issue
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Because racetruck
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 104
From: Monterey Bay, CA
Rear HVAC issue
Hey guys, I am solid under the hood of my truck but this one has me stumped. My rear HVAC quit blowing hot air sometime last summer. Regardless of weather I use the front control or the rear control, it blows cold all the time. The front HVAC blows hot just fine.
I pulled the overhead console down and made sure the harness was plugged in and no wires were chafed.
Anyone have a wiring diagram or any tips on what to look at?
Your help is appreciated.
I pulled the overhead console down and made sure the harness was plugged in and no wires were chafed.
Anyone have a wiring diagram or any tips on what to look at?
Your help is appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
I've got the same problem. Just now trying to diagnose. Looks like there are 2 actuators, both electrical. One is to choose "Floor/Panel" and one is the air blend door. Going for a spin to warm up coolant and see if I have hot coolant reaching auxiliary heater core. Will report back.
Just got back--both coolant lines behind right rear tire (above exhaust pipe) are "hot" to the touch after coolant warm-up. There is flow through the auxiliary (rear) heater core, so the problem must be air blend door actuator or control wires to it.
Just got back--both coolant lines behind right rear tire (above exhaust pipe) are "hot" to the touch after coolant warm-up. There is flow through the auxiliary (rear) heater core, so the problem must be air blend door actuator or control wires to it.
Last edited by Forest; Dec 29, 2009 at 05:14 PM. Reason: New Information
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
I was able to fix this problem on my 05.
1) There are 2 actuators for the auxiliary (rear) heat/HVAC air handler. They appear to be identical and both use small electric motors to move their respective doors 90 degrees. One is for the "panel/floor" control and one is for the "cold/hot" control.
2) The "cold/hot" control is on the side of the air plenum, behind the big plastic wheel housing interior cover.
3) The cost of a new actuator at Ford is about $60.
4) If you have one (of the two actuators) working, you can check out the controls by moving the cable from possible defective actuator to the working one.
5) Three (3) 8 mm hex head bolts hold the actuator in place. The hardest part is getting the interior panel out of the way to get to it.
6) You will need a big Torx-head socket (don't know the size) to remove the right rear seat belt mount bolt. This allows the interior panel to move far enough to work on the actuators.
1) There are 2 actuators for the auxiliary (rear) heat/HVAC air handler. They appear to be identical and both use small electric motors to move their respective doors 90 degrees. One is for the "panel/floor" control and one is for the "cold/hot" control.
2) The "cold/hot" control is on the side of the air plenum, behind the big plastic wheel housing interior cover.
3) The cost of a new actuator at Ford is about $60.
4) If you have one (of the two actuators) working, you can check out the controls by moving the cable from possible defective actuator to the working one.
5) Three (3) 8 mm hex head bolts hold the actuator in place. The hardest part is getting the interior panel out of the way to get to it.
6) You will need a big Torx-head socket (don't know the size) to remove the right rear seat belt mount bolt. This allows the interior panel to move far enough to work on the actuators.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Tulsa, OK
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New User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I have an 01 Excursion blowing cold air in both front and rear. Blower works fine - just no heat. Good thing I have a short commute! But before I head off to repair bills unknown... any suggestions on what could be wrong? Thanks!
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: SW Chicago Burbs
Is the engine warming up? If not the thermostat might be stuck open.
If that isnt it, is the coolant full? usually the heaters are the highest points so when the coolant level drops the fluid doesn't pass through and you dont get heat.
If that isnt it, is the coolant full? usually the heaters are the highest points so when the coolant level drops the fluid doesn't pass through and you dont get heat.
New User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
The engine is fully warmed. I will check the coolant level. Just had an oil change so they should have checked that, but who knows. Is there a way to determine if it is the thermostat? Both the front and rear are blowing cold. Please forgive my ignorance... do they share a single thermostat?
New User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
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It was the coolant level. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
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