My driver side back suicide door won't open. It is the top latch that is not disengaging. I think I heard something loose in that door over the past month. Anyone had this happen? Am I going to have to take off the inside panel to fix it?

 

With the handle actuated, you should be able to sneak a good sized flat blade screwdriver up there and release the catch. Then you'll just have to remove the door trim and reattach the linkage. If your lucky, the linkage keeper (plastic of course) will have just let go, and be right there... if your like me, the dang linkage rod will have broke in half (no.. just kidding) but the plastic keeper may be broken.

Yet again, just one more job bailing wire can accomplish.

 

Same thing just happened to my truck.
You can take off the inside panels with the door closed, then reach up inside and pull the cable to release the top latch. The latch and cable come as an assembly, and are about $72 at the dealership.

Unhook the cable from the inside release handle, and take out the three bolts on the latch, and it pulls right out.
Kinda pricey I thought....

 

Thanks folks

I tried prying the latch with no luck. It looks like I will have to remove the window latch hardware in order to remove the upper half of the door panel with the door closed so I can get at the latch cable to open the door. Can anyone tell me what is the easiest way to remove the upper half of the backdoor panel with the door closed?

 

Bump Since the date didn't change when I edited to add detail today

 

I know this sounds stupid, but did you try pushing on the door. Mine has srtarted not opening but when I pull the latch and push just slightly it will open right up. A Curtis

 

If i remember correctly, you have to remove the two window latch mounting screws and the panel just pulls off. and snaps back on.
The bottom panel has a few screws at the top of the panel just under the top panel, and it snaps in on the bottom as well.

Hope this helps

 

I got the panels off and went in thru the speaker hole after removing the speaker. From the inside I discovered there is a hole in the door frame providing access to the whole mechanism and cables but it is covered with the stick on plastic that covers most of the door frame for draft blockage I guess. Its interesting that there is a 2nd piece of stick on plastic the size of the access hole, and over the access hole area that can be used as a stick on patch over the hole you have to make in the plastic to get to the mechanism.

My problem turned out to be the rubber mounting boot on the top cable broke off so the cable was not restrained when pulled. Tried remounting and readjusting it without much success. I may try using some liquid nails tomorrow. Otherwise I may have to get a new cable

 

Using liquid nails to remount the jacket of the cable (going to the upper latch) to the mounting bracket worked. The door now opens and closes, almost properly. The only problem is that I think I broke the upper latch when I was prying it open. So now when the door is closed the upper latch does not completely engage and there is about 3/16 inch of play at the top part of the door.

The latch cannot be replace by itself since it is completely incased in the mounting bracket along with its connection to the cable. One could replace the cable/latch assembly but nobody seems to have it. The stealership will only sell the complete door opening assembly which consist of the top and bottom cable/latch assemblies plus the entire opening assembly which requires you to disconnect and then mount and reconnect all the linkage. They sell the entire assembly for $130.

I think I'll keep looking for just the upper cable/latch assembly.

 

Doug, The dealership by me "Sarasota Ford" sells the top latch with cable attached for around $72.00
I just wanted the cable, but it only comes with the latch included....The part was in stock when I last talked to them...beats paying $130

 

I called Sarasota Ford this morning and they told me the cable/latch assy for $72 was for the F150 only and that for the F250 I had to buy the complete assy for $158.

Thanks for the effort though

 

No kidding.....those idiots lied to me then...sorry bout that Doug

 

I just found a great free fix for these suicide door cables. You crawl into the back seat and take the door panels off which is pretty easy, pull down the plastic to expose the handle mechanism inside. Then you identify either of the offending cables, pull it sleeve and all to get the door open. Then once your in a more comfortable position you drill two 1/4" holes in the slope of the door just under the window directly above the cable end where it attaches to the mechanism. From these holes you string a better quality zip tie through and around the cable. This strap can be tightened in small increments pulling the sleeve of the cable up until you get the door handle functioning again. You have to work the door open and closed a few times to let the cable and zip tie find their final resting positions. WD 40 helps the zip tie center up on the cable. This fixes the top cable. For the bottom cable you simply secure the sleeve to the bottom of the door somewhere that will keep the sleeve in alignment and maintain the tension on it. This fix works pretty well and is permanent. I'm sure my zip tie will last longer than the end pieces of the cable sleeves that broke off especially since I used the ones with the metal latching zip. I had both doors do this and I wish I had taken a picture of the fix. PEOPLE!! Please don't buy new cables unless there is some kinda major new engineering design they offer. This fix will outlast new cables by a decade I'm sure.

 

Sweet....I'll give it a try. Thanks for sharing

 

I will be trying this tomorrow. Any updates?