Supercab backdoor won't open
Molon Labe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,272
Likes: 1
From: Alaska
Bigtexan, If you need a latch, I am parting out my 99 F250 supercab.
The top latch on the drivers side is broke, but the other three are working.
The top latch on the drivers side is broke, but the other three are working.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 790
Likes: 35
From: Austin
I just found a great free fix for these suicide door cables. You crawl into the back seat and take the door panels off which is pretty easy, pull down the plastic to expose the handle mechanism inside. Then you identify either of the offending cables, pull it sleeve and all to get the door open. Then once your in a more comfortable position you drill two 1/4" holes in the slope of the door just under the window directly above the cable end where it attaches to the mechanism. From these holes you string a better quality zip tie through and around the cable. This strap can be tightened in small increments pulling the sleeve of the cable up until you get the door handle functioning again. You have to work the door open and closed a few times to let the cable and zip tie find their final resting positions. WD 40 helps the zip tie center up on the cable. This fixes the top cable. For the bottom cable you simply secure the sleeve to the bottom of the door somewhere that will keep the sleeve in alignment and maintain the tension on it. This fix works pretty well and is permanent. I'm sure my zip tie will last longer than the end pieces of the cable sleeves that broke off especially since I used the ones with the metal latching zip. I had both doors do this and I wish I had taken a picture of the fix. PEOPLE!! Please don't buy new cables unless there is some kinda major new engineering design they offer. This fix will outlast new cables by a decade I'm sure.
Fantastic! Worked like a champ. Rear super cab door not opening fixed by adding one zip tie around the cable. Did not even have to drill, as there was an existing slot in just the right place. Total repair time: 18 mins Total parts: 1 plastic zip tie.
New User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Conroe, Texas
Hey guys i had the same problem, I was able to get the door open and realized that I had a broken cable as well. Hey big Tex can you go into a little further detail on exactly what you did please?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 790
Likes: 35
From: Austin
It's all there in that 'quoted' section in my last post. My cable was not 'broken' into 2 pieces, just the little piece of plastic that holds the cable in a specific position.
Basically, you are just going to use a plastic zip tie to hold the upper cable into a position over the top of the door lock mechanism.
after you open the door panel, just reach in there with your hand and hold the cable in different positions until the door opens when you pull the handle, then zip tie the cable into that position.
Basically, you are just going to use a plastic zip tie to hold the upper cable into a position over the top of the door lock mechanism.
after you open the door panel, just reach in there with your hand and hold the cable in different positions until the door opens when you pull the handle, then zip tie the cable into that position.
Molon Labe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,272
Likes: 1
From: Alaska
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New User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Fixed similar problem
referencing the advice of others, I appear to have fixed a similar failure using nothing but a zip-tie and a couple of drops of super glue. My upper latch, lower cable assembly retention element had failed meaning the cable housing was no longer restrained by the door mechanism. Unrestrained, there was no release of the upper latch. So, by carefully removing the top panel (and the two screws on the window mechanism), removing the bottom panel (two screws and a retention nut), the speaker (4 bolts) and the plastic liner, I was able to find the loose cable. Holding it in-place was enough to open the door. I used a zip-tie to secure the cable housing to the bracket. I used superglue to secure the zip-tie to the latch mechanism so it wouldn't come loose with time (but should be removable with a little nudge in the future if need be). A simple in-and-out repair, and a fully functioning door with no problems so far. I took a pic of the finished job for reference. Thanks for the advice!
F150reardoorlatch on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
F150reardoorlatch on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
back door wont open
yes you have to remove upper and lower pannels. this is not hard to do. most likly your upper cable sleeve has slipped out of its slot so there is no tension on the sleeve so the cable wont release your upper latch. I had this very thing hapen to me. all you have to do is slip the sleeve back over the slot and release the door with the door handle. once open it is much easyer to work on. to keep this from happening again just put on a couple zip ties around the cable and the metal release latch right in front of it. they dont have to be supper tight just tight enough so the sleeve cant slip off again. i sugest you go ahead and do both doors it wount take you more that another 15 minits or so !
upper pannel- remove two crews on window latch. pannel has press in clips and takes a little pulling to get off.
Lower pannel- remove two screws at top of pannel then pull out at the top and lift up at the same time.
pull back the insulation tape on door until you can see into the inside door handle. you can see eveything from there !
upper pannel- remove two crews on window latch. pannel has press in clips and takes a little pulling to get off.
Lower pannel- remove two screws at top of pannel then pull out at the top and lift up at the same time.
pull back the insulation tape on door until you can see into the inside door handle. you can see eveything from there !
New User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
My fix for door cable
I used cable clamps, the type with a U-bolt and 3/8 nuts and about the size of a quarter, maybe less. Remove panel and just install the clamps on the cable sheathing inside the door as far up as possible aginst the handle housing. Working fine for over a year now.
New User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Yes this Works!
I had to shoot some shots to help the next guy/gal now I just need help uploading the photos.
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I just found a great free fix for these suicide door cables. You crawl into the back seat and take the door panels off which is pretty easy, pull down the plastic to expose the handle mechanism inside. Then you identify either of the offending cables, pull it sleeve and all to get the door open. Then once your in a more comfortable position you drill two 1/4" holes in the slope of the door just under the window directly above the cable end where it attaches to the mechanism. From these holes you string a better quality zip tie through and around the cable. This strap can be tightened in small increments pulling the sleeve of the cable up until you get the door handle functioning again. You have to work the door open and closed a few times to let the cable and zip tie find their final resting positions. WD 40 helps the zip tie center up on the cable. This fixes the top cable. For the bottom cable you simply secure the sleeve to the bottom of the door somewhere that will keep the sleeve in alignment and maintain the tension on it. This fix works pretty well and is permanent. I'm sure my zip tie will last longer than the end pieces of the cable sleeves that broke off especially since I used the ones with the metal latching zip. I had both doors do this and I wish I had taken a picture of the fix. PEOPLE!! Please don't buy new cables unless there is some kinda major new engineering design they offer. This fix will outlast new cables by a decade I'm sure.