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I just installed a tri set of gauges this evening (oil/temp/amp) and I was wondering what the normal readings should be on each. On initial start up the oil reads 25 psi and drops down to 6 psi after the truck warms up (600 +/- rpms). Amp reads 15 and increases to 30 as the engine revs higher. I also noticed the needle bounces when the turn signal is activated. I have it wired from the starter solenoid to the B side of the gauge, the from the A side to the alternator. The individual I bought it from had it wired this way also and it appears to be correct from the instructions. The temp is around 190 after warm up and a short run around the block. The engine is a '65 289 (Fairlane), with a manual choked Edelbrock 500, and is hooked up to an automatic tranny (C6). Hope this is enough info. Also there seems to be a ticking/sometimes slapping sound when I first start the engine up. Nearly goes away once the engine is warmed up. Thanks,
The water temp seems pretty normal. The oil sounds real weak. I would expect a healthy motor to start around 60 and get down around 20-25 idleing warm and cruising around 35-45 warm. 6 sounds like you ought to not run the motor. I suspect you have ticky lifters, and maybe rod knock at start up because of poor oil pressure. I've heard it said that there should be 10lbs of pressure for every 1000 Rpm. My 302 I ran w/ a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and my Camaro (305) run as described above. Big blocks don't have as good a pressure. But I would think a FE (you have a 360 right) should be much better than what you describe. An M block maybe. Even the really big diesels that power the city busses I drive idle better than that. I'm not really familiar w/ amp gauges, the ones in my Ford trucks have never ever moved. I have used volt gauges instead because, I'm told they are both safer (fire hazard) and will tell you more useful info. BTW, I tried answering your Email but I'm not sure it was successfully sent.
OOps you said it was a 289. you should have much better oil pressure than that. Is the gauge mechanical (with an oil line to the gauge) or electrical (with sender and wire to gauge)? If electrical, are you using the proper sender for your application?
Okay, now for the dumb question. Is there anything I can replace to fix this problem, before the engine self destructs (oil pump, lifters, push rods, lighter oil???). Just got the bugger on the road after sitting for 6 years and I would like to enjoy it a little before it dies. It has a 289. Thanks for your help,
If you have bad oil pressure, it is most likely that the clearances in your cam,main,rod bearings are excessive do to wear. Maybe your pump is the problem, but If the engine has a lot of miles, or the wrong sized bearings, I'd say it's due for a rebuild before you break something that renders it unrebuildable. Unless you have a 5 bolt bellhousing 289 (pre 66?) then a 302 will bolt right into what you have. 302 and 289 blocks are interchangeble (except for the 5-6 bolt bell difference) You should be able to get a running used 302 for faily cheap. I just bought a whole truck w/ 302, OD tranny, 2.75 rear, and several other goodies, like straight rear bumper for $1000 and it runs pretty good. I bet you could get a junkyard 302 that has some more life for $300
I dug out my manual that covers the '65 Fairlane to begin reading about the engine rebuild. I notice that the oil capacity said it was 5 quarts with a new oil filter. On my last oil change I only use 4 and it filled it even to the Full mark. Is it possible my dipstick is wrong and would this add to or be the cause of my low oil pressure? Sorry....... just reaching for straws now. I haven't done a complete engine rebuild since I was many moons younger and smarter!!!
I saw in another post of yours that you used Gunk. I wonder if your poor oil pressure has to do with your oil being thinned out by the Gunk, or your oil pickup clogged by debris loosened by the Gunk. I ran a quart of ATF in my 390 for a 100-200 miles to "clean" the system. It thinned out the oil real good. Maybe too good. Things are more normal after changing the oil. I'd think about pulling the pan if you can to inspect for loose crud and maybe inspecting the oil pump. I'm also running 20-50 in my tired 390 lower end.
I have a quick question for you, How long have you run the engine happily, and confidently, before you put the guage on it and deceided it was about to go k-plooy?
John
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
The truck had been sitting for 3 years minus the engine, when I found it three years ago. I bought a Fairlane for the engine and had it put into the truck. The wife liked the Fairlane so the truck ended up being a second priority until last month. Other than straightening out the distributor, timing, shocks, mixed up plug wires, and some wiring problems (from generator to alternator) the truck had just been sitting in the garage with the just some routine startups. The guy I bought the fairlane from only had it for about two months and didn't know much about it. I had put the gauges on because I didn't know much about it.
Thanks for splaining, I had gathered from your post that you had been driving the truck and had just added guages, and thought it was about to die. :-)
John
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
I would like to eventually get it to that point one of these days. It will take some time though. I have been able to do most of the work on it myself, which is pretty satifying. I have tore some things completely down and somehow managed to get it back in working condition with most of the pieces still intact. This forum has really helped out with tech questions, which I am thankful for. It has kept the two youngest ones and I busy and out of trouble (except when the UPS guy delivers my parts early and the Mrs. answers the door!)
I have a '74 351W in the garage that is stripped down to a small block. Will the intake, heads, and water pump from my '65 289 bolt up? I have the heads for the 351W also, but was told I wouldn't be able to use them because they have the holes in the back for some air/emmision controls. I was going to plug them up, but he also told me it would cause prolong warm up periods and a rough idle.