Well, here is the story. My 2000 F350 4x4 with a manual tranny has a blown head gasket. The shops around me quoted me around $2200 to $2500 for just a head gasket repair. I do not have a shop or the proper tools to even consider the repair myself. The best engine remanufacturer in town can get me an engine for $3300, and r&r of the engine for $1500, plus another $250 for the parts to complete it, (water pump, coils, wires, fluids, etc). So basically $5000 for a new engine installed with a seven year/70,000 mile warranty. I figured it makes a lot more sense to just put a new engine in rather than just repair the head gasket. (Looking at value here)
https://www.sandjengines.com/Default.aspx

So here is what i need help with....
What else should I have done while the engine is out. I was planning on a tranny inspection and new tranny and t-case gaskets, since I know there is a leak up there somewhere...
I could use more advice about the 2v vs. 3v engines. I am pretty sure I can get either one, but I have not had the truck or been on here long enough to really know this engine or what the primary differences are.

Seems like broken exhaust manifold studs are an issue, so shoud I upgrade those while it's out to ARP or another manufacturer?
The salesman at S&J told me that they put inserts in all the V10's they reman to alleviate the spark plug rocketing issue, so that's good. The guy who they recommend for the R&R is a SuperDuty owner, and I will talk to him tommorow and ask him what he thinks I should upgrade as well.
But I would like to hear some others thoughts on this as well.
Due to the high cost of this swap I can't afford things like high performance headers, new exhaust etc.
But if this is gonna get built and you had the choice to build it your way, what would you put a bit of extra money into, say maybe $500-$1000 above and beyond the engine and associated install costs?
High output oil pump?
Better than stock water pump?
Five star tune?
Ignition system upgrades? (not sure about any options here)
Bigger radiator?

I dunno.....I am new to this engine, so please offer up any advice you think is helpful. Things to make sure are addressed OR different with the new engine? Essential upgrades that would best be done while the engine and front clip are out?

Please help.

Thanks in advance. I will be placing the engine order this coming Monday.

<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">

 

Maybe one of these?
Hypertech 1011 - Hypertech Power Stats - Overview - SummitRacing.com
or
Sealed Power ZHT2271 - Sealed Power Hydraulic Lifters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
or new pulleys?
Which plugs?
Throttle body spacer?
Cloyes heavy duty timing set?

New heater core? Maybe it leaks and that's why it smell like antifreeze in the cab when using the heater?

Centerforce Clutch?

 

If you can get the whole new motor installed with a warrantee for $5000 and you feel the truck is worth hanging on to, I'd say that's a good deal, it's sure better than a $2500 head gasket! Anyway, having said that, it's a good time for a new clutch (as you said), but I'd just go with a stocker. If the heater core is leaking, replace it. But I'd be careful about spending money on stuff you don't need. Things like throttle body spacers are worthless, and since the stock timing set didn't fail, I'd stick with the one that comes with your new motor. It's very easy to get way more money into a project than you originally intended, and $50 here, $100 there and $200 somwhere else add up in a hurry. Instead, I'd replace the radiator (new motors run hotter until they're broken in) and leave it stock.

 

Well, I spent a bunch of time tonight looking through past threads and it seems like swapping from a 2v to a 3v is a pretty involved process that I don't feel the need to work on right now.
<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">

 

https://www.sandjengines.com/Default.aspx

all the engines they list are non pi heads, if it was my truck I would be looking for an engine with the pi heads

 

When looking for a new motor and to save some bucks i suggest doing a search at www.car-parts.com might find a low mileage engine in your budget...

 

You definatly want a motor with PI heads, your current 2000 has PI heads. I would get a quote from a couple Ford dealers in your area to put in a reman V10. Who knows they may be reasonable. You can get a tuner after you do the swap and the motor is broken in.

 

I guess I am gonna have to do some searching to learn more about the PI heads. I haven't read anything about them yet. Those are "power improved" right? Any particular machining I should have done on the heads before they go on the block?
I did get a quote from a local Ford dealership for the R&R but they came in almost $600 more. They were $400 more on the labor and about $200 more for the plugs, wires, oil, etc.

 

Glad you saw that. I'll make sure before I order from that that I am getting PI's.
<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">

 

Not sure how this compares to what your looking at -- but has PI and looks like a pretty good deal

Promar Precision Engines

 

So if this guy https://www.sandjengines.com/Default.aspx is close to you can't he pull the motor and rebuild it for you? Shure it will take more time than pulling the old and throwing in a reman but shouldn't cost much more if at all. Then you still got the original numbers matching motor in it.

 

Not sure I would save any money having one shipped from NJ to WA but thanks for looking.

dkf, S&J is a large machine shop in town and they have been machining engines for decades, but they do not do R&R. They do have a shop in town who they recommend for R&R's and that is who will do the work.
If they cannot provide me with a reman with PI heads, then I will have them pull mine and reman it, even if I have to wait longer.
As far as numbers matching, that is not important to me. This truck is missing a lot of factory parts already and has been modified well beyond the desire to keep things like that lined up.

 

Just a heads up, according to promar engine's website they offer free shipping anywhere in the US and free core pickup.

 

Your right. I saw that. I actually called them today and asked a few questions. They don't use new valves, oil pump, etc. The use rebuilt parts.
Nonetheless, I asked S&J if they could match that price and two hours later was happy to hear the salesman say, "Our sales manager re-priced the engine and was able to match Promar's price"

So, I happily ordered it today locally from S&J, and it came to $3151.21 after the governor gets her share(Tax). Not too bad for a fully remanufactured and balanced long block with new valves, cams, oil pump, timing gear, etc.

This machine shop is close to where I live and they have been in biz for decades in town here, so I trust their reputation.

I am getting a PI head engine for sure, and will be definitely replacing the clutch while it is out. Any other thoughts on neccessary things to address at this time?

 

any chance of getting pics during the surgery ???

always cool to see open heart done on a fantastic truck like urs....