Idle Validation Sensor

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Dec 22, 2009 | 10:52 AM

#16

SpringerPop

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From: La La Land

If it were mine, I'd pop it out (it's only three small nuts that hold it in). That way you can use a DVM to see if the switch is electrically operational, whether you can hear it or not.

Here's a schematic of the wiring for the IVS part of the truck:
http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/wiring/va137402.pdf

and here's the accelerator pedal position sensor part:
http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/wiring/va137404.pdf

What you're looking for is at the bottom of each of those pages.

These diagrams are for what's called "early production", and "late production" are the ones with a single plug instead of two, but the WIRE COLORS are the same in both cases, so test the IVS by reading the continuity between the pins that are attached to the RED/LT GRN and RED/YEL wires.

Here is the diagram for "late"
http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/wiring/va163297.pdf

The IVS should read "closed" at the idle position only.

Pop

Dec 22, 2009 | 10:52 AM

#17

onelionhunter

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From: Belgrade, MT

Partsguy Ed has teh whole OEM assembly for well under $100 including shipping, I bought one a few months ago after cleaning didnt cure my problem.

Dec 22, 2009 | 11:43 AM

#18

SpringerPop

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From: La La Land

I don't think he's going to find anything wrong with his pedal assembly, including the switch.

He's chasing a very different problem, and this just MAY be part of the problem, but I don't see it likely.

Why suggest a new pedal assembly? I think it would be money ill-spent, at least given what he's currently seeing as his problem.

What was the problem that caused you to replace yours?

Pop

Dec 22, 2009 | 12:01 PM

#19

onelionhunter

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From: Belgrade, MT

OOps

My bad, didn't read the link back to original thread, just saw that Napa is carrying parts now, for roughly the same money as the OEM part.

When mine started to flake out, would start truck, put in gear, and no go when i hit the pedal. Wait 10 seconds, try again, and it worked for a few days. Then it started getting worse, going down road, drop to idle, then wham, back to where I had my foot positioned. Run for a few hours, then get weirded out again. I took it apart, cleaned everything with contact cleaner, reassembled. Fine for a few days, then the same deal over again, random no go pedal, be it cruising speeds, take off, or what ever, no pattern, totally random. That said, mine was on the accelrator side, not the IVS side. Three months with new assembly and no issues to date.

Dec 22, 2009 | 12:18 PM

#20

nunya001

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I tend to agree with Pop - just working through the process. Pop - thanks for those diagrams, but that's greek to me. I do have a digital volt meter though - how do I test in layman's terms?

Dec 22, 2009 | 12:35 PM

#21

tdpower

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It looks like to me that the red/yel wire should have dc voltage with the key on. The red/lt. green should go high when you press the go pedal.

Dec 22, 2009 | 12:47 PM

#22

tdpower

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It is probably going to be hard to check the voltage with it plugged in. You could unplug it and check the resistance while pushing the go pedal to make sure the switch is working. With it unplug and key on you should have dc voltage on the red/yel wire.

Dec 23, 2009 | 11:30 AM

#23

nunya001

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Guys thanks for all the guidance, but I don't think the IVS is causing my problem. Interestingly, the pedal assembly on there is completely sealed so cleaning is not an option. All the plug contacts looked clean, but I checked them and cleaned them anyway. These are the numbers that were on the assembly:

1034-9F-836-CA + L3 A1243144 + >PA66-6F33<

I'm moving onto other causes. Just checked all the wiring harnesses, pulled most plugs and cleaned and applied dielectric grease. In the process found my water pump is leaking - good to know.