how do the auto locking hubs work
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Junior User
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how do the auto locking hubs work
Hey guys,
I to need some guidance on my auto hubs. Mine on my 94 Bronco are not engageing at all. tryin to find some good pics on how they come apart and how they actually work. They are some post on fullsizebronco.com but I cannot view the pics on there. Is there a factory Ford website that shows an exploded view of how they go together?
thanks
I to need some guidance on my auto hubs. Mine on my 94 Bronco are not engageing at all. tryin to find some good pics on how they come apart and how they actually work. They are some post on fullsizebronco.com but I cannot view the pics on there. Is there a factory Ford website that shows an exploded view of how they go together?
thanks
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
Not sure on where to find diagrams. Do you have a Chiltons or Haynes manual? If not, those are a must for any vehicle.
As for the auto hubs themselves, I believe they work on vacuum. The vacuum source pulls the mechanisms into place to activate and deactivate the hubs. However, almost everyone will agree that your best bet is to simply remove them and replace them with manual hubs (the kind you turn by hand to activate). The auto hubs are fail prone, and usually will fail you when you need them the most. Switching to manual hubs is considered an upgrade, it's pretty easy, and not too expensive.
As for the auto hubs themselves, I believe they work on vacuum. The vacuum source pulls the mechanisms into place to activate and deactivate the hubs. However, almost everyone will agree that your best bet is to simply remove them and replace them with manual hubs (the kind you turn by hand to activate). The auto hubs are fail prone, and usually will fail you when you need them the most. Switching to manual hubs is considered an upgrade, it's pretty easy, and not too expensive.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
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Not positive how your auto hubs work, but I don't think it with vacuum. My 97F250 came with auto hubs and no vacuum activation,just little plastic gears in hubs to activate metal gears. You would have to back up 10' to unlock hubs. Unless someone gives u some good auto hubs I would go ahead and replace with manuals. My auto hubs went south after maybe 50-75 uses and everyone said put in manual so I got Warn hubs and haven't been sorry. Like they said, it's an upgrade.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: St Louis
The auto hubs on the FSB were mechanically actuated. As soon as torque was applied from the axle shaft, e.g. as soon as the front driveshaft turned, onto front axles the hubs would lock in. How they work exactly I dont know, I do know if they are not working it is probably due to a couple of items, someone packed them full of grease, the actual piece that locks the axle to the wheel has become striped out, or the springs have become too weak/broken to engage the hubs.
I have never looked for replacement guts for one (but have heard you can get the whole hub off used condition of Ebay) and just found that for 100 bucks the aftermarket manuals were a better bet even though you have to plan ahead to lock them in before hand. You also have access to low range without having all four wheels turning as well. Which I have not had a need for yet.
I have never looked for replacement guts for one (but have heard you can get the whole hub off used condition of Ebay) and just found that for 100 bucks the aftermarket manuals were a better bet even though you have to plan ahead to lock them in before hand. You also have access to low range without having all four wheels turning as well. Which I have not had a need for yet.
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From: Boise, Idaho
Thanks for clearing up how they worked. I can't remember where I heard vacuum came in to play. Oh well.
I've used low range several times without having the hubs turned. It works great for when you need to crawl, but don't necessarily need the extra traction. (i.e. moving a large trailer in a small space).
Other than that, as said, all you have to do is plan ahead. Although, with manual hubs you can run with your hubs turned all year round without shifting into 4 wheel drive and you won't hurt anything.
I've used low range several times without having the hubs turned. It works great for when you need to crawl, but don't necessarily need the extra traction. (i.e. moving a large trailer in a small space).
Other than that, as said, all you have to do is plan ahead. Although, with manual hubs you can run with your hubs turned all year round without shifting into 4 wheel drive and you won't hurt anything.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,603
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From: St Louis
I think the ~94+ rangers/explorer, 97+ F150/expedition, and 98+ superduties do have the vacuum locking center section/hubs that may have been what you were thinking of when you posted.
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yeah, I just went out and bought a set of Warn premium hubs at my local Napa. was drving my Bronco back home and got stuck in the snow we just got over the weekend. luck my wife had a F350 and was only 20 mins home from work and I pulled it out. I was sitting in my truck looking at my new hubs in the box and going wish I put you guys in sooner.LOL
thanks for the input!!
thanks for the input!!
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From: Boise, Idaho
Awesome! Glad to hear the operation went smoothly. 
I love the Warn premiums on mine (lucked out and had someone install them before I got it.)
A recommendation my trucks' users manual had for manual hubs is to lock them in once a month and drive for about ten miles of normal driving (in 2H). It makes the wheels turn all of your front end stuff like driveshafts, differential, etc, and keeps it all nice and lubricated.
I love the Warn premiums on mine (lucked out and had someone install them before I got it.)A recommendation my trucks' users manual had for manual hubs is to lock them in once a month and drive for about ten miles of normal driving (in 2H). It makes the wheels turn all of your front end stuff like driveshafts, differential, etc, and keeps it all nice and lubricated.
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