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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #16  
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dyoung14
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Originally Posted by mechelement
Mine's still installed and I think I'll keep it there.

dyoung14's motor is an animal. It survives 4k+ RPM shifts. I don't think it plays well with glow plugs.
a combination of 4000+ shifts all the time and advanced timing and turned up fuel actually cause the glow plug tips to eat away, i even turned the timing back to stock and it lost 20 mph pulling the mountain, so i cranked the timing back up, and deleted the glow plugs, right now im putting a turbo off of a 94-97 model psd, i was going to use a wastegated one off the 00-03 psd but i there a little to big for my liking,
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 11:25 AM
  #17  
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ernesteugene
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Originally Posted by dyoung14
i want to see if it makes enough heat to fire my idi, i fired it at 40 degrees with a hair dryer so who knows
If someone posts the "element ohms", "current draw", or "power output" for the stock AIH and a typical cold weather "cranking rpm" I can estimate how well the stock AIH might function as a "stand alone" aid for starting in cold weather! Here's an outline of my approach...

When cranking the engine cold at 120 rpm a mass airflow of 0.015 lbm/sec flows past the AIH. It requires about 200 ft-lbf of "heat energy" to raise the temperature of each 1 lbm of airflow by 1*F so it requires (200)(0.015)=3 ft-lbf/sec of "heating power" to raise the temperature of the 0.015 lbm/sec airflow by 1*F and assuming that 50% of the AIH "electrical power" is transferred to the incoming airflow as "heat energy" this means about (3/550)(745.7)(2)=8 Watts of AIH "electrical power" is required to raise the temperature of the incoming airflow by 1*F when cranking the engine!

Once inside the cylinder the "absolute temperature" of the air approximately doubles during the compression stroke just prior to fuel injection. This means the intake air needs to be pre-heated to about 70*F because 70*F=530*R and doubling this gives 1,060*R which is 600*F and this is a reliable temperature for auto-ignition of diesel!

So for an ambient temperature of say 20*F a temperature increase of at least 70-20=50*F is required and this requires an AIH power of (50)(8)=400 Watts! For ambient temperatures less than 20*F you probably need about 12 Watts of AIH "electrical power" to raise the temperature of the incoming airflow by 1*F when cranking the engine so at say 0*F an AIH power of (70)(12)=840 Watts is required.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 12:23 PM
  #18  
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KYFarmBoy
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From: Benton,KY
Just curious, What temp unit is R? I am familiar with Celsius, Kelvin, and Fahrenhiet but haven't heard of R.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 12:44 PM
  #19  
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Heck, I have one if you want it. PM me you addy and it's on the way to ya!
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 01:26 PM
  #20  
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From: Eaton, CO
Originally Posted by KYFarmBoy
Just curious, What temp unit is R? I am familiar with Celsius, Kelvin, and Fahrenhiet but haven't heard of R.
Rankine.

The ten character minimum is lame.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 01:26 PM
  #21  
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ernesteugene
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Originally Posted by KYFarmBoy
Just curious, What temp unit is R? I am familiar with Celsius, Kelvin, and Fahrenhiet but haven't heard of R.
The *R stands for "degrees Rankine" and "Rankine" is the absolute temperature scale that's used in the "U.S. Customary System" of units and a temperature of -459.67*F or degrees "Fahrenheit" is exactly equal to 0*R but this is usually rounded to -460*F so that it's easier to convert between "Rankine" and "Fahrenheit" using... *R=*F+460 ...and *F=*R-460!

If intake air at an initial "absolute temperature" T1 and "absolute pressure" P1 is compressed to a higher "absolute pressure" P2 the "absolute temperature" T2 of the compressed air is given by... T2=(T1)(P2/P1)^0.275 and during cranking (P2/P1)=14 which gives... T2=(T1)(P2/P1)^0.275=(T1)(14)^0.275=(T1)(2) ...so that the "absolute temperature" is doubled!

Eventually I'll get around to discussing this in more detail here... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...t-and-ebp.html

Originally Posted by zx250
Heck, I have one if you want it. PM me you addy and it's on the way to ya!
If you've got an ohm meter handy please measure the AIH "element ohms" and post it!
 
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