When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I WROTE IN ASKING INFO ON THE 040
OVER 390 IN MY 74 F250 AND WANT TO THANK ALL THAT REPLIED IT WAS ALLOT OF HELP.NOW I NEED TO INSTALL HEADS ON THE 390 AND WAS WONDERING IF I SHOULD USE OLDER HEADS TO MAKE MORE POWER OR DOES IT MAKE ANY DIFFERANCE?MY 390 IS A STOCK 4BBL AND HAS NO SMOG EQUIPMENT.WOULD I LOSE COMPRESION PUTTING NEWER 360 HEADS ON.I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO KNOW WHEAR I CAN GET ENGINE DECALS FOR A 390 OVER THE NET.THANKS FOR ANY INFO ON THIS 390.FE BLOCKS FOREVER
Unless you have a 427 or (early 60's) 352hp 390hp 406 or 428CJ,SCJ.... most FE heads have pretty similar chamber volumes. D2TE AA, D3TE B,C,E,F are the listings I have for 72-76 (all trucks after 70) w/ 68.1-71.1cc combustion chamber volume. There was no difference between 360/390 heads in the 70's.
Dog.. just read your post about 390 heads, one thing about rebuilding old heads, you can spend a lot of money bring up them up. You have to have them cleaned, checked for cracks,usually surfaced,new guides, reamed to fit or honed,new hard seats for unleaded gas,new springs collars,keepers,valves...this can easly run over $2000.00. You can go cheaper but why not spend the 1200.00 and buy a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads. The casting are copies of the stock heads, which is the only thing Edelbrock blew it on, it was the time to improve on them and they didn't. You would now have shaved weight, more can be removed with an al manifold. With all the al sitting on top of the block you now have a better heat sink that removes more heat and doesn't radiate back to the combustion chamber ie. warmer fuel and air, less dense cyclinder packing, less horse power. Then add a set of stock manifolds with a ceramic coating to get the hot gases out the tail pipe,cooler under the hood temps, and you can now up the compression, as much as 1 point, without having to retard your timing.
I guess with spening $2000 dollars rebuilding heads, that would probably have to do alot for them. I am guessing that estimate may be a little off. I did a complete valve job, nothing special.. for $600. That included cleaning, checking for cracks, surfacing,new guides, installation of hardened seats for unleaded gas,new springs collars, keepers, and new valves. I suppose if you have the heads ported, or install High Performance parts that the bill can go up considerably. I only did a stock valve job on mine.
I would suggest calling some local machine shops in your area to get some prices on it. If money is no object and you are really looking for better performance, edelbrock is the way to go. I have to agree with DBF that Edelbrock will give you more "bang" for your buck.
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-1" FACE="Tahoma"]Compare -- feature for feature *this site* is best!. That includes engine decals and a lot of other neat stuff for our trucks. Check out the on-line store to the right in the menu.[/FONT]
James.. I went back and looked at my reciepts from '93 and it was $894.00 of which the higher price was due to honed fit winona bronze guides and machining for oversized valves. I used the tunnel port valves for the 427 heads to get 2.150 int. and 1.73 exh. I did the valve job and the assembly as well as the port work.
Jim
I had my 390 heads and exhaust manifolds done for 700. Magged, cleaned, assembled, New exhaust valves and hardened exhaust valve seats, and manifolds milled flat.
I had my 390 heads and exhaust manifolds done for 700. Magged, cleaned, assembled, New exhaust valves and hardened exhaust valve seats, and manifolds milled flat.
I had my heads rebuilt with hardened seats. While the guys were at it they removed the thermactor bumps in the exhaust ports. When I got the heads home, I got a dremel type tool and deburred/ polished the combustion chambers. Lightly unshrouded the exhaust valves and cleaned up the exhaust ports (just cleaned up the rough surfaces). My truck now runs great on regular where before it took premium to stop the pings.
I just picked up my 351W heads yesterday and the total bill was less than 200.00. They were disassembled, tank, inpected, all mating surfaces milled, and reassembled for 60.00. I was lucky and the only additional charges were the replacement of the valve guides @ 5.65 each and labor of 30.00. I wouldn't imagine there would be much more of a difference for your big block heads. I am sure some folks might suggest to have the valves, keepers, and springs replaced, but this fella guarantees his work and was highly recommended. I would suggest checking with your machine shop. Call a couple of your repair shops around and see who they farm out their work to. Just a suggestion.
Mike
'64 F100 Short-Box Project
Rebirth of "Salvage Yard Scrap Iron"
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.