Thumping noise from dash!
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Joined: Jan 2010
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Prior to the clash-for-clunkers fiasco, scrap yards were loaded with wrecked Explorers and Rangers, most with perfectly-good engines. It was pretty easy to find a used 4.0L OHV that you could swap in. Nowadays....I don't know. 
My gut feeling is the heads probably got too hot and warped and/or cracked. A failed head gasket could also be evident. That's why I would be thinking about a possible swap.
My gut feeling is the heads probably got too hot and warped and/or cracked. A failed head gasket could also be evident. That's why I would be thinking about a possible swap.
Im with Rock on this one i would say you either warped or cracked the head . Are you loosing water but dont see it leaking on the ground ? look for steam out the tail pipe .
My head was craked on the intake valve side & was only on one cylinder & never showed combustion gases in the coolant , but it did have a mis everynow & then . when it finally threw a code i found my problem by checking the plugs . i pulled the one with the misfire & found antifreeze i knew then what the problem was . I just replaced the head with a new one & new gasket & sofar so good after i figured out what was causing the thumping after replacing the head .
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Joined: May 2010
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Put it all back together with the Ford thermostat with no improvement.
I'm not losing any coolant and there's no steam out the tailpipe that I can see. I just don't see the typical symptoms of a bad head gasket like oil in the coolant and coolant loss/steam out the tailpipe. I'm going to replace the radiator cap because it is possible it's just not building up enough pressure and allowing the coolant to boil in the head. It's also cheap and easy to try. I don't know why I didn't try it sooner. I'll report the results tomorrow.
I'm not losing any coolant and there's no steam out the tailpipe that I can see. I just don't see the typical symptoms of a bad head gasket like oil in the coolant and coolant loss/steam out the tailpipe. I'm going to replace the radiator cap because it is possible it's just not building up enough pressure and allowing the coolant to boil in the head. It's also cheap and easy to try. I don't know why I didn't try it sooner. I'll report the results tomorrow.
New User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Put it all back together with the Ford thermostat with no improvement.
I'm not losing any coolant and there's no steam out the tailpipe that I can see. I just don't see the typical symptoms of a bad head gasket like oil in the coolant and coolant loss/steam out the tailpipe. I'm going to replace the radiator cap because it is possible it's just not building up enough pressure and allowing the coolant to boil in the head. It's also cheap and easy to try. I don't know why I didn't try it sooner. I'll report the results tomorrow.
I'm not losing any coolant and there's no steam out the tailpipe that I can see. I just don't see the typical symptoms of a bad head gasket like oil in the coolant and coolant loss/steam out the tailpipe. I'm going to replace the radiator cap because it is possible it's just not building up enough pressure and allowing the coolant to boil in the head. It's also cheap and easy to try. I don't know why I didn't try it sooner. I'll report the results tomorrow.
Youve had no misfires & engine runs great it just thumps ?
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Joined: May 2010
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If youre not loosing coolant then , i would make sure you dont have any air in the cooling system as this will cause the thumping too . I just read back you had a belt to break& you replaced the water pump & pulleys. Also make sure your bottom radiator hose isnt collapsing .
Youve had no misfires & engine runs great it just thumps ?
Youve had no misfires & engine runs great it just thumps ?
Also, the engine never ran worse after the belt breakage so I don't think there was any serious damage due to that. I have checked all the hoses while it was happening and none were collapsing. I'm pretty happy with how it's running now so I'm going to say "problem solved".
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The thermostat in there now is a brand new Ford 195 degree thermostat.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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Hi. I've been having very similar issues with my 99 ranger 4.0L. After the engine gets to op temp the dash/coolant system thumps. This only occurs when the HVAC controls are on. I've replaced my radiator, hoses, T stat; however, the thump still remains.
My power steering pump is new (I tried the Lucas PS stop leak, but it is so cold it gelatinizes). I have noticed my AC compressor clicks and whines.
I went to ford and they weren't any help, merely told me the bypass kit was unobtainable and that I should learn to live with the problem.
So I am stuck and scratching my head, anyone have any sugguestions? Thanks!
My power steering pump is new (I tried the Lucas PS stop leak, but it is so cold it gelatinizes). I have noticed my AC compressor clicks and whines.
I went to ford and they weren't any help, merely told me the bypass kit was unobtainable and that I should learn to live with the problem.
So I am stuck and scratching my head, anyone have any sugguestions? Thanks!
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Hi. I've been having very similar issues with my 99 ranger 4.0L. After the engine gets to op temp the dash/coolant system thumps. This only occurs when the HVAC controls are on. I've replaced my radiator, hoses, T stat; however, the thump still remains.
My power steering pump is new (I tried the Lucas PS stop leak, but it is so cold it gelatinizes). I have noticed my AC compressor clicks and whines.
I went to ford and they weren't any help, merely told me the bypass kit was unobtainable and that I should learn to live with the problem.
So I am stuck and scratching my head, anyone have any sugguestions? Thanks!
My power steering pump is new (I tried the Lucas PS stop leak, but it is so cold it gelatinizes). I have noticed my AC compressor clicks and whines.
I went to ford and they weren't any help, merely told me the bypass kit was unobtainable and that I should learn to live with the problem.
So I am stuck and scratching my head, anyone have any sugguestions? Thanks!
BTW, whoever told you to "live with" the problem needs to have his butt kicked. Does he have a boss?
AC compressor clicking is the clutch engaging and disengaging. A little whining is normal, but if it is loud it may need to be serviced.
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Joined: May 2010
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Finally Fixed for good
OK, after dealing with this off and on for years I noticed that it doesn't happen when on max air conditioning or if the heater selector is off. Both these settings cause the vacuum-operated heater bypass valve to bypass the heater core. It seems that there is not enough flow through the heater core and this is causing a hot spot in the engine and creating steam pockets.
My solution was to create a permanent bypass on the heater core using reducer tees on the heater hoses with some 3/8" hose used for the bypass. After I installed it the symptoms went away and stayed away and I still get plenty of heat from my heater. I hope this helps if anyone comes back to this thread.
My solution was to create a permanent bypass on the heater core using reducer tees on the heater hoses with some 3/8" hose used for the bypass. After I installed it the symptoms went away and stayed away and I still get plenty of heat from my heater. I hope this helps if anyone comes back to this thread.
New User
Joined: Dec 2019
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OK, after dealing with this off and on for years I noticed that it doesn't happen when on max air conditioning or if the heater selector is off. Both these settings cause the vacuum-operated heater bypass valve to bypass the heater core. It seems that there is not enough flow through the heater core and this is causing a hot spot in the engine and creating steam pockets.
My solution was to create a permanent bypass on the heater core using reducer tees on the heater hoses with some 3/8" hose used for the bypass. After I installed it the symptoms went away and stayed away and I still get plenty of heat from my heater. I hope this helps if anyone comes back to this thread.
My solution was to create a permanent bypass on the heater core using reducer tees on the heater hoses with some 3/8" hose used for the bypass. After I installed it the symptoms went away and stayed away and I still get plenty of heat from my heater. I hope this helps if anyone comes back to this thread.
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sftbalnerd
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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Sep 20, 2017 04:23 PM
