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I have replaced the thermostat last week and since then i have not had the colapsed upper hose at all! I dont know if there is a valve or turnoff for the heater? If i was to guess i would say no but im not familiar either with this truck. I can say this much since replacing the thermostat with the oem one my temp guage downt swing as much and mostly rides at normal until the airpocket hits it then it swings down almost to the bottom then goes back to the top and repeats every few minutes 2 to 3 minutes.
Ah, ok, replacing the thermostat fixed the hose collapse problem - that's making a little more sense then...
At this point I'm going to guess that you're right about the air pocket, it sounds like it might be the steam problem described in the TSB Rockledge posted above. If it was just a simple air pocket, it should purge over time, since it seems to reoccur, it's probably steam. It's probably occurring whether you have the heat on or not, its just that when the heat is on the steam is getting into the heater core where you can hear it. Does it make noise when the truck is cold and the heater is on?
nope it dont make the sound when cold... It only will make the sound when it warms up to normal operating temp and not before... When cold or even half warm no sound only when completely warm and its quiet as a cat when the heater is not on.
nope it dont make the sound when cold... It only will make the sound when it warms up to normal operating temp and not before... When cold or even half warm no sound only when completely warm and its quiet as a cat when the heater is not on.
Yes, sounds like a steam problem. Even though you say the gauge runs normal most of the time, it seems that some part of the engine is over heating and causing a steam pocket to form. Could be an obstruction in the block, or even a bad water pump (as Rockledge again has already pointed out) ? But sounds like it's worth runnning through the checklist on that TSB, and then checking out that bypass kit if none of those steps help.
One other simple thing to check - you radiator cap. If the cap isn't holding pressure, then your coolant will boil at a lower temperature than it should. That should only be an issue in a marginal case, but...
Try drilling a 3/16" hole in the thermostat. This will help circulate the air to the degas bottle.
Double check that the water pump is the correct one. The reason is this. Some water pumps look identical on the outside, but they are designed to turn in opposite directions. This is because a V-belt drives it one way and a serpentine belt drives it the opposite. If it is turning the wrong way for your engine, that would explain the upper hose collapsing. Also, if it is turning the wrong way it is very inefficient!
Try drilling a 3/16" hole in the thermostat. This will help circulate the air to the degas bottle.
Double check that the water pump is the correct one. The reason is this. Some water pumps look identical on the outside, but they are designed to turn in opposite directions. This is because a V-belt drives it one way and a serpentine belt drives it the opposite. If it is turning the wrong way for your engine, that would explain the upper hose collapsing. Also, if it is turning the wrong way it is very inefficient!
Thanks I just went out and checked the waterpump and it is def correct and turning the right way I looked at the schematic to make sure. Also since i have changed out the thermostat the upper hose does not collapse thank god lol... I just had a mechanic look at it and he told me its an air bubble inside the heater core! Soo my next question would be are these 4.0 L hard to burp cuz i tried twice so is there a valve i can use or something close to the heater core? Or can i just loosen the heater core outlet till it bleeds out? Also I am going to try and drill a hole just like u said the mechanic said that exact same thing also so its worth a try...
As I said, you can't always tell which direction the water pump is supposed to turn from looking at the outside. Check the part number on your invoice, call the part supplier and ask them if that pump number is for a serpentine system or a V-belt. (I don't know which you have.)
As I said, you can't always tell which direction the water pump is supposed to turn from looking at the outside. Check the part number on your invoice, call the part supplier and ask them if that pump number is for a serpentine system or a V-belt. (I don't know which you have.)
ohhh ok i will check that out now then ty for that info i had no idea it was internal..
I'm not real familar with that truck - is there a valve in one of the heater hoses that is controlled by the heater setting? Seems there would have to be for the heater on/off to affect the noise. And if there is, being closed or open is likely to have an affect on the water flow in the pump/thermostat area...
Yes, his '98 has a "water diverter valve" a/k/a "hot water control valve" which is open (allowing coolant flow to the heater core) in all modes except OFF and MAX AC.
ohhh ok i will check that out now then ty for that info i had no idea it was internal..
Yes, it is in the shape of the impeller which you can only see from inside.
Another thought: You could pick up one of those Prestone backflush kits. In there is a fitting that splices into your heater hose and it has a cap on a threaded opening that fits a garden hose. If you install that in the highest point of either of your heater hoses (with the cap upward,) you can bleed off air from there.
Yes, his '98 has a "water diverter valve" a/k/a "hot water control valve" which is open (allowing coolant flow to the heater core) in all modes except OFF and MAX AC.