I assume the leak in my fuel pump is from the weep hole. Does this mean that the fuel pump is about to quit? If I need to replace it are there any special tools that I need or will I need to remove the turbo and mount?

 

You might want to clean out the valley first and then dry it out and put paper towels accross as much of the valley floor as you can and then drive it a few miles to ensure thats where the leak is, or get and inspection mirror out and lokk under the pump to ensure thats the source of the leak. If so the fuel prump replacement is a time intensive job no too complicated just a few difficult parts to remove. to replace it you need to remove the fuel filter housing/ fpr assembly. then the banjo bolt at the back of the lines from the pump which sits under the turbo. The factory book say remove the turbo, Ive done it with the turbo in place. If you have cali emssions what I did was remove the lifting eye from the pass side bank and work the the space there under the turbo pedistal, using a stubby 3/8 ratchet, a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and a 1 1/4" shallow impact socket. and then used a small prybar to leverage against the turbo pedistal to break the bolt loose. If you have a 49 state you cna reach the banjo bolt from the front using a combination wrench which a lot of people bend alittle to help or a swivel head ratchet and a bar to break it loose. Once you remove the banjo bolt, there are 2 bolts holding the fuel pump in and it comes straight up to come out. Be advised the tappet piston that operates the pump is just below the pump and rides the cam, and there is nothing to hold it to the pump, for this reason most people recmmend turning the motor over by hand so the cam will push the pump up and out, then you can reach under the pump and put sideward pressure on the rod and pull it out. be carerful no to drop it as it will got through the cam and block and if your lucky end up in the oil pan, if your not so lucky,.... well lets simply not do that ok. The other trick Ive used is to use a pair of locg bent angle needle nose pliers to rech under the pump and grab the rod and hold it while I remove the pump then deal with the rod. The new pump will have a grease glob to hold the rod in place to set it in. Then the reassembly is the reverse. Dont feel bad Ive got to do one tommorow morning on my own truck for a change. been leaking slowly for 4 months tonight on the way to work I left with 1/2 showing on the fuel guage and got to work 20 mile later with 1/4 showing and the wonderous smell of burnt diesel in the air where it had been cooking on the motor and hitting the exhaust.

 

My pump leaked for a long time. It never stop working. I just got sick of the leak and changed it. Idid not have to pull the turbo. Great directions oversize. I used a boxed end wrench for my bajo bolt. Don't forget there are two washers on the banjo bolt.They sometimes are stuck on there good. I'm pretty sure I just reused mine.

 

I reuse em alot so do the guys at the dealer as alot of times depending on the case since sometimes its easier once the banjo bolt is backed out to leave it in the socket and the tools under the turbo.

 

my truck started 4 days ago in -25 degree wheather it ran for 10 second and died. tried to restart no go.running winter blend and power service add. no smoke coming out of exaust while turnjng over. is there a fuse that blew keeping it from starting? what can I do besides towing to a warm shop? block heater is working just no fuel to injectors.

 

Hijacking a 4 year old thread and asking the same questions as you have in your other post won't get you any extra help. It will just irritate people and confuse anyone who is responding to your post and trying to help you.