Is it possible to have engine brake in a 99 f350 superduty v10 with 103,000 miles, I like to have some extra brake power if possible thanks Rick

 

An engine/compression brake like diesels have? No.

 

In theory you COULD have a flywheel or crankshaft brake, but there would be no real place for one due to the accessory drives and the TC being in the way.

 

Thanks for the info I always had that question, one day somebody told me to have a muffler shop install a some kind of valve to reduce the exhaust volume on down hills, is that possible or that guy was full of c/?', I rather ask the pros instead of just doing something stpd. thanks again Rick

 

It would have to be a bit more complicated than just a valve that increases backpressure. On diesel powered trucks, an exhaust or 'jake brake' functions by holding the exhaust valves in the cylinder head open, and then increasing exhaust backpressure (forcing exhaust gases back into the cylinders) to slow the rotation of the crankshaft.

You would need a device to hold the exhaust valves open, and then a valve to increase back pressure. All in all, if you want better braking performance, just buy a good set of pads and rotors.

 

And the modular motors are interference design so there would be no way to keep the values open any longer than normal timing.

 

thanks for the advice ENDURO i will upgrade with better quality brake parts, Im just trying to stop as fast as i can when loaded to the neck and I'm pulling a trailer with a skid steer in it, and a smart a/?? jump in front of me on rush hour and expect me to stop because he forgot to enter my lane when it was safe for both of as Thanks again Rick

 

There is such a thing. They put them on motorhomes and small diesel engines. Never heard of anyone using them on a gas engine.
For a few years they had them on Mack trucks. It was called a stealth brake, it was a flapper that closed off the exhaust pipe. Then the next step was the engine brake that held the exhaust valve open.
I guess it could work, but since 6.8's are good at braking exhaust studs and blowing gaskets I don't think I'd want to put the extra pressure on them... I'd go for better brakes and leave exhaust brakes to diesels...
If your trailer only has brakes on one axle I'd add them to the other one too. That would be the best money spent...

 

Sure there is. It's called downshifting with a manual transmission, or putting it into 2nd gear with an auto.

 

Not exactly.

A diesel engine can have one or two different types of engine brake. One is a compression release brake, also known as a jake brake. The other is an exhaust brake. They are not the same thing.

A compression release brake (jake brake) utilizes a third valve in the head or the exhaust valve itself. If the throttle is off and the jake brake is activated, the valve opens at the top of the compression cycle, releasing the compressed air and making that distinct "jake brake" sound. The valve closes and the piston is drawn down which creates negative pressure. This piston pulling against this negative pressure is where the braking comes from with a compression brake.

With an exhaust brake, a valve closes off the exhaust path downstream from the exhaust valve. The exhaust quickly fills with compressed air. As the exhaust valve opens in the engine and the piston tries to push out the air, the compressed air already in the exhaust system cannot move out of the way, pushing back on the piston and creating braking force.

An exhaust brake is not as effecient as a compression brake, but is easier to retrofit to an existing diesel engine. The two are often confused with each other, but they are two very different styles of engine braking.

As for the OP's question, a gasoline engine develops engine braking when the throttle is closed. With the intake valve open, the downward motion of the piston tries to draw air in but the throttle plate is blocking the path. This creates a negative pressure (a vacuum) which causes engine braking. An exhaust brake, while technically possible, would not develop any more braking horsepower than the piston pulling the intake vacuum.

 

BRILLIANT explanation, Redford!

Blocking the exhaust pipe on a computer controlled FI engine will likely trip the check engine light.

One thing I've done to help on long downgrades (Donner, Siskiyou, etc) while towing is install a manual torque converter lock up switch. I installed an LED to show when the TC is locked up and noticed the ECM program would unlock TC when coasting, reducing engine braking. Now I can flip a switch and keep the TC locked in 3rd or even 2nd and get a bit more engine braking - just like a manual trans. Not a whole lot more, but definitely some.
The only down side is that using the brakes with TC locked will result in CEL. So I keep a code eraser on hand. And coming to a complete stop with TC locked WILL stall the engine.... Dohhh!

 

i have a TC manual lock up switch as well. i used a 3 position switch DOWN being OEM control, MIDDLE being manual unlocked, and UP being manual locked.

the switch is ground (-) activated. meaning the TC will lock when a ground connection is made.

on the 3 position switch i have the wire that goes to the TC in the center. so when the switch is down, the connection between the ecm and the TC is connected, thus the computer controls lock up.

when the switch is in the middle, the connection is broken, so no signal is going to the TC, thus keeping the TC UNLOCKED.

when the switch is moved from the middle to the UP position, the ground connection is made. i have a wire going from the switch to a firewall ground, thus locking the TC and keeping it locked till the ground connection is broke.

NOW this is just my routine when using the TC lock up....... if i start the truck with the switch in the middle (manual unlocked) the CEL will come on as soon as i turn the key on. BUT if i start the truck, move the shifter from Park to ODrive, and back to park, then unlock the TC, no CEL comes on, and i can control the TC manually, or put in back in OEM mode, and no CEL. the TC will help in down hill breaking, along with a quick push of the "OD OFF" button! i have a few pics of my install in my gallery.

 

Must be a 4R100 thing? With the 5R110W I've never felt the need to have a TC lockup switch. When you are in Tow/Haul mode the transmission will downshift automatically to hold your speed. Seems to work great! Maybe the PCM locks the converter before the downshift?

 

Have you considered a parachute?

 

It could be.... When the PCM tells the TC to lock up is just a matter of programming. For most uses, the driver would prefer the TC to remain unlocked when letting off throttle - for a smoother drive and better fuel economy when coasting. So I say the stock programming is done right.
But on long steep downhills, it is nice to have the extra engine braking.

And for clarity, the PCM needs to unlock the TC momentarily when shifting or the shift is rather abrupt and potentially damaging... Kinda like shifting a manual without pushing in the clutch. With the manual lock up switch, this needs to be kept in mind. Manually locking with it in drive and forgetting about it is not such a great idea. I only lock it when the PCM will not be trying to tell it to shift - like when in 3rd or 2nd on long downhills. Must remember to shut it off before climbing the next hill when the PCM may be telling it to downshift.