Fuel leak but not at the drain valve.
#1
Fuel leak but not at the drain valve.
It's been awhile since I last posted but I do check from time to time. My problem is that I have a consistent fuel drip from the transmission inspection plate. At first, I had a fuel leak at the front of the engine and at the transmission inspection plate. I checked the posts here and found that the common problem was the fuel drain valve so I purchased the good (blue) o-rings from dieselorings.com. I installed them and dried up the valley on top of the engine. Well, that fixed the leak at front of the engine but I still have a leak at the back and there is no fuel in the valley. So what is it now? Is this a simple fix somewhere else?
#4
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
not hard ro do...just tricky to get to...there is a rubber sleave under the nut going into the head.. replace the sleave,, hand tighten the nut till the rubber bottoms out on the nut..then give it a half turn with a wrench..turn the key to on and check for leaks..if it leaks...with a wrench give it another 1/4 turn...do not crank that nut down tight with a wrench or you will be getting a new rubber sleeve and starting over....
#6
What Ron said.
The easiest way to get to the fuel rail connection at the rear of the passenger's head is to pull the turbo outlet spider along with the 4 boots. It is a good time to clean them up with soap and water anyway. Get 2 of the 1/4" sleeves and pull the entire line from the valley and check the hard line where it passes thru the "P" clamp by the turbo pedestal. Vibration and grime will rub a hole completely thru the hardline. Wrap a short piece of fuel line around the rub area, enlarge the P-clamp and bolt it back down. If the P-clamp is made tight enough, you will eliminate any more wear on this section of hardline.
The easiest way to get to the fuel rail connection at the rear of the passenger's head is to pull the turbo outlet spider along with the 4 boots. It is a good time to clean them up with soap and water anyway. Get 2 of the 1/4" sleeves and pull the entire line from the valley and check the hard line where it passes thru the "P" clamp by the turbo pedestal. Vibration and grime will rub a hole completely thru the hardline. Wrap a short piece of fuel line around the rub area, enlarge the P-clamp and bolt it back down. If the P-clamp is made tight enough, you will eliminate any more wear on this section of hardline.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
What Ron said.
The easiest way to get to the fuel rail connection at the rear of the passenger's head is to pull the turbo outlet spider along with the 4 boots. It is a good time to clean them up with soap and water anyway. Get 2 of the 1/4" sleeves and pull the entire line from the valley and check the hard line where it passes thru the "P" clamp by the turbo pedestal. Vibration and grime will rub a hole completely thru the hardline. Wrap a short piece of fuel line around the rub area, enlarge the P-clamp and bolt it back down. If the P-clamp is made tight enough, you will eliminate and more ware on this section of hardline.
The easiest way to get to the fuel rail connection at the rear of the passenger's head is to pull the turbo outlet spider along with the 4 boots. It is a good time to clean them up with soap and water anyway. Get 2 of the 1/4" sleeves and pull the entire line from the valley and check the hard line where it passes thru the "P" clamp by the turbo pedestal. Vibration and grime will rub a hole completely thru the hardline. Wrap a short piece of fuel line around the rub area, enlarge the P-clamp and bolt it back down. If the P-clamp is made tight enough, you will eliminate and more ware on this section of hardline.
#9
I think i'm having the same problem with my e99 right now. I just fixed the bowl drain valve, and that cleared up the valley. But still got that leak running down between the starter and block to the trans insp. plate. These rubber sleeves you all talk about. What are they? pieces of hose or something i have to go buy somewhere? anyone have any pictures as well. Thanks
#10
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I think i'm having the same problem with my e99 right now. I just fixed the bowl drain valve, and that cleared up the valley. But still got that leak running down between the starter and block to the trans insp. plate. These rubber sleeves you all talk about. What are they? pieces of hose or something i have to go buy somewhere? anyone have any pictures as well. Thanks
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
#11
I changed all the o-rings in mine, and it still was leaking. I could not find the leak! It was a pretty small leak, pooling in the valley, and then would spill out on the pavement when I parked on a hill. So when I did the fuel bowl delete, no more leak. Turns out the fuel bowl had a hairline crack.
#12
Those cracks in fuel bowls that are found in rare occasions can be repaired by a good welder that can do aluminum heli-arcing, unless it is cracked through a tapped port. Even then it can be repaired but you would have to get a machine shop involved.
I spoke to one individual that had an OBS fuel bowl that had holes develop in the bottom of the bowl (electrolysis?). I suggested that he find a welding shop and he called back and said it worked great and didn't have to buy a new one.
I spoke to one individual that had an OBS fuel bowl that had holes develop in the bottom of the bowl (electrolysis?). I suggested that he find a welding shop and he called back and said it worked great and didn't have to buy a new one.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
marks500
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
49
05-21-2012 11:19 AM
LSO1123
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
6
01-09-2012 11:33 AM