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I just bought a 65 ford f100 the casting number on the front is 352 and just above that is a 13 I have herd you can't tell the difference between a 390 and a 427 but can you tell if it is a 352 ect.. the heads are C4AE6090G intake is C5AE9425B. It also came with a spare that has a 14 above the 352 and D2TEAA heads and C9AE9425B intake. What do I have? the truck smoke bad now smells rich seems to have good power I drove it 45 miles home with no over heating or any thing other than the smoke. Would it be worth it to change the oil and tinker or is it a lost cause.
Oh contrar, you can tell the difference between a 427 and other FE motors for the outside. It is the 352, 360, 390, 410 and 428 you can't tell the difference between from the outside. You must check the bore and stroke to determine whether it is a 352, 360,390, etc. So even though a 352 would have been stock in a '66 truck, your engine may not be the original and not a 352.
Change the oil with 10W30 your favorite brand. Run some Seafoam in it first to aid cleaning.
Has the truck sat for a while? Is the smoke black or blue? You may need some carb work.
Sounds like you have a 352 under the hood and a 360 in the bed. The 360 is a 390 bore block and a 352 rotating system. (basically)
I'd rebuild the one in the bed as a 390 when the time comes.
John
Thanks for the information. Yes it has been sitting for 4+ years. The smoke is blue. did the trucks come with a holly carb or is it after market? the holly seems iffy
Blue smoke is oil, your rings need to be replaced, try some Restore or similar product and build the 390 is what I would do.
Not necessarily, it could be valve seals. He needs to do a compression check, then squirt some oil in to the cylinders and redo the compression test. If the numbers come up dramatically then it is rings, if not it is valve seals or guides.
I was planing to just swap in the spare motor but I think I will try some seafoam first then compression checks on both motors. I have herd that these motors were designed to run on a straight 30 weight detergent oil. Is that a better way to go?
That is correct on design. I have always run and plan on continuing to use multi weight detergent oil. I used to run 10W40, and now use 10W30.
When I start reading about engine failures because of not running high this content or that I will switch, but for the mean time I am sticking with what has worked for years and a million + miles from my stables.
thanks for the input, I have some 10w40 so I will start with that if it is the stuck ring the thinner oil may help free it up. I will be changing the oil again soon any way.