Ball Joints Replace...Broken Zerk!! HELP!
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 365
Likes: 4
From: Round Rock, TX
Ball Joints Replace...Broken Zerk!! HELP!
Hey Guys,
So I finally tackled the ball joint replacement job with the help of several How-To's posted on these forums. Overall it wasn't that bad a job but when I finally got it together and took it for a test drive I found a pretty big problem.
I was driving at about 10-15 mph and put it in 4x4 to test the seals and vac system since it had all been apart for the replacement. This very loud squeaking noise could be heard, followed by a snap, and more squeaking.
I took it out of 4wd and limped home. I should have known, but one of the zerks snapped off and the other was clearly making contact with the U-Joint.
These are Moog Ball Joints and Moog 90-Degree Zerks. I've now got to rip apart the driver size again (at least remove the axle shaft) and try to somehow remove/replace this zerk that snapped off flush at the ball joint.
Anyone have any thoughts on how to accomplish this, or what to do?
Also, can I remove the zerk on the other side without tearing that all the way down?
So I finally tackled the ball joint replacement job with the help of several How-To's posted on these forums. Overall it wasn't that bad a job but when I finally got it together and took it for a test drive I found a pretty big problem.
I was driving at about 10-15 mph and put it in 4x4 to test the seals and vac system since it had all been apart for the replacement. This very loud squeaking noise could be heard, followed by a snap, and more squeaking.
I took it out of 4wd and limped home. I should have known, but one of the zerks snapped off and the other was clearly making contact with the U-Joint.
These are Moog Ball Joints and Moog 90-Degree Zerks. I've now got to rip apart the driver size again (at least remove the axle shaft) and try to somehow remove/replace this zerk that snapped off flush at the ball joint.
Anyone have any thoughts on how to accomplish this, or what to do?
Also, can I remove the zerk on the other side without tearing that all the way down?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 214
Likes: 3
From: Montreal
Those Moogs come with a plug as well as the 90 degree zerk for exactly this reason, you install the zerk in order to grease them, then remove it and put in the plug. Yes you can remove the other one without disassembling. As far as the broken one, I would do everything possible to try to get at it with something before tearing it all apart again. Maybe try to drive the short end of a small allen key into whats left of the zerk and turn it out?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
Ha, I googled "remove broken zerk" to see if there were any tricks and guess what result #2 was...
I'm thinking if we're really lucky, the screwdriver trick will work without removing that shaft, and we can grind them down so that this isn't an issue. You already got a new 90-degree zerk?
I'm thinking if we're really lucky, the screwdriver trick will work without removing that shaft, and we can grind them down so that this isn't an issue. You already got a new 90-degree zerk?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Lowcountry, S.C.
Sorry, not trying to hijack, but I did the ball joint replacement a month ago with the same Moog ball joints. The clearance between the zerk and the u-joint was very close but no contact when I turned the shaft by hand. Will the clearance be any different when under power in 4wd. Thanks!!!
Fred
Fred
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: MASS
I did my ball joints about a month ago, probably even read the same write up and it said if you get the 90 you should check for clearance. I put them in to grease then check to see of u joint would hit and it just touched so I put a straight on instead of a plug. Most time my brain doesn’t work until I mess up but for some reason I checked before finishing the job and it’s a good thing I did. Just to make u feel better I was working on the truck late at night and pressed the upper ball joint on the right side first before the bottom and had to remove it!
Fred, it takes that shaft to vibrate or move and it will break the 90. When I did mine I rotated the shaft once and it missed. So I kept spinning it and eventually it just grazed it so I would remove unless you got a 1/8 clearance.
Fred, it takes that shaft to vibrate or move and it will break the 90. When I did mine I rotated the shaft once and it missed. So I kept spinning it and eventually it just grazed it so I would remove unless you got a 1/8 clearance.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 365
Likes: 4
From: Round Rock, TX
So I just finishe with the help of bigric. Ended up taking the nuckle off again and hammering an Allen head up in there and backing it out. Replaced with new ground down 90 degree zerks and put back together. Better than new.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Lowcountry, S.C.
Mike, glad to hear you got it out. About how much did you have to grind it down for clearance? Thanks
Fred
Fred
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Round Rock, TX
Well I replaced the zerks and the replacements already had more clearence than the ones that came with the moog joints. Just tool offayve a eigth inch with an angle grinder. There still isn't much clearence but there is enough to leave them on and not have to worry about the alxe shaft or u joint molvimg around and hitting it.
At firestone now uitilizing a lifetime alignment.
At firestone now uitilizing a lifetime alignment.
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