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I suppose it's back to a test light to check the plugs, but that shouldn't have anything to do with why it is clicking the second I key up the ignition.
Actually it does, my WTS light is on for a second or two then goes out and the clicking starts. Not for long though.... [Going to degrease and clean up the engine in case I need to post a pic with a question.....]
I ended up getting another controller as a parts warranty (we'll let ford figure that one out). Don't really know if it was the controller or moving the ground, but she's back together and doing what it should. WTS light comes on, then I get the clicking after the appropriate delay.
As for the ground tab (which may or may not have been the real issue). I moved it to UNDER the control unit. It was hooked up to a wiring harness hold-down bolt. I had even cleaned the area before reattaching to that spot. This time I put it under the driver side mounting bolt for the control unit.
So, it was either a bad control unit out of the box, or relocating the ground. either way, I'm back on the road when it's cold out, without having to look for a place to plug in an extension cord...
I ask because if it was the firewall, that could indicate a cab grounding problem.
Now you got me thinking again, thanks. I put in a new CB some time ago and ran it the fuse box but it didn't seem like a good connection on the spade and it popped the in line 2 amp fuse. I relocated it directly to the battery and have it grounded to the firewall. Getting a bit of engine noise, I think, through it but where the static is noticeable is when the electric windows go up or down. Could that be an indication of the cab ground? I know there is one located underneath the pass door but unsure of it's condition.
Electrical............
I have added grounds from both of my battery negative terminals to the body.
Also added an extra engine block to cab ground.
Also added an extra engine block to frame ground.
And I ran a wire from the battery back to my trailer plug to supply a direct ground to what ever I tow.
Yes it was a little excessive, but the grounding straps Ford installed so many years ago do fail.
Ground WAS in the same location as when we removed it. I even cleaned it up, but it didn't work. I have a funny feeling it was bad out of the box because all else remained the same.
I have the same issue i went down to my local parts store and picked up a new GP controller/relay and when i go to turn the key my WTS like goes on for 2 seconds and then off and then it starts clicking like on and off on and off i hooked it up right am wondering if i have a bad ground since the controller is moved over to the passenger side valve cover because of the after market turbo system or is it a bad controller should i return it and get a new one? up were i live am scared of shutting it off and going some where for an hour or two and having it not start.
Yeah, that.
The controller reads the resistance to ground through the glow plugs to determine how long to glow. The glow plugs resistance goes up with temperature, and the controller reads this. If a couple plugs are burned out, the resistance that the controller sees is high, and the controller thinks the engine is warmer than it really is...
I had 2 bad plugs, and my WTS light came on for about 3 seconds in 20º temps with a cold engine...
ok thank you i'll go down to my local ford and see if i can still get them if not some guy on ebay has them i know to get only motor craft glow plugs nothing else and i'll see what happens after that