When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am installing A coolant filter on my 6.0L. I am peaceing my own kit to gether.where I work at I can get all the parts for about $35.00 give or take a couple bucks.
I have got a couple of questions.
1.Would it hurt to mount the filter lower then the tank? (drivers side fender well under floor board there is A nice mounting spot there)
2.Would the Fleetguard WF2070 be ok?
(it has 2 units and for A 6 gallon system)
3.Would it be ok to tap into the heat hose on the drivers side of the engine under the tank ?
P.S. when my head gaskets popped the dealer change my coolant to Green antifreeze.
I am installing A coolant filter on my 6.0L. I am peaceing my own kit to gether.where I work at I can get all the parts for about $35.00 give or take a couple bucks.
I have got a couple of questions.
1.Would it hurt to mount the filter lower then the tank? (drivers side fender well under floor board there is A nice mounting spot there)
2.Would the Fleetguard WF2070 be ok?
(it has 2 units and for A 6 gallon system)
3.Would it be ok to tap into the heat hose on the drivers side of the engine under the tank ?
P.S. when my head gaskets popped the dealer change my coolant to Green antifreeze.
3.Would it be ok to tap into the heat hose on the drivers side of the engine under the tank ?
That would be kind of pointless.That hose has flow in it only when your heater is on.
The coolant filter MUST be a by-pass application, where a fully clogged filter wouldn't effect the whole system. This is why the best - and maybe the only spot to tap in is the hose going to the heater valve - passenger side, above the valve cover, close to the firewall --> that would be the feed to the filter , and the discharge is the small hose between the radiator and the de-gas bottle, on the front-top.
Also having the filter below the tank is not a problem - if you install some shut off valves on each side, so you can change the filter without draining the whole cooling system.
Put my filter (the NAPA ) version on the inside frame about under the front passengers feet. Shut of ball valves on each side so filter change is a snap. Tapped the line from the area of the EGR cooler to the heater (thats the pressure side of the heater) and returned via the small line on the radiator. I also added a small marine inline fuel filter to the return line. It has a glass section that lets you see the fluid flowing and judge its condition. Just remove the filter element inside of it. System works great and has trapped a lot of sand and gunk in 1500 miles.
That would be kind of pointless.That hose has flow in it only when your heater is on.
The coolant filter MUST be a by-pass application, where a fully clogged filter wouldn't effect the whole system. This is why the best - and maybe the only spot to tap in is the hose going to the heater valve - passenger side, above the valve cover, close to the firewall --> that would be the feed to the filter , and the discharge is the small hose between the radiator and the de-gas bottle, on the front-top.
Also having the filter below the tank is not a problem - if you install some shut off valves on each side, so you can change the filter without draining the whole cooling system.
Thanks. I should of looked a little closer and traced the lines.I was plaining to return the filter back to the little hose on the tank.
I will just move the filter to the Pass side. fender well.
Here's a question. If I have had my cooliong system flushed a few times as well as having my headgaskets replaced. Do you think there is still enough 'sand' in the block to warrant installing one of these filter set ups?
Here's a question. If I have had my cooliong system flushed a few times as well as having my headgaskets replaced. Do you think there is still enough 'sand' in the block to warrant installing one of these filter set ups?
It's tough to say. Some people say their coolant filter doesn't have much in it. My 2005 had a couple of coolant flushes and EGR/Oil coolers replaced before I installed my coolant filter. I changed it for the first time last month and it was full of what looked like sand and rust particles. I feel like it was money well spent.
Here's a question. If I have had my cooliong system flushed a few times as well as having my headgaskets replaced. Do you think there is still enough 'sand' in the block to warrant installing one of these filter set ups?
It isn't just casting sand that can be a problem. Any time you overheat, or leak combustion gasses into the coolant, you can drop silicates out as a precipitate that looks like sand.
Here's a question. If I have had my cooliong system flushed a few times as well as having my headgaskets replaced. Do you think there is still enough 'sand' in the block to warrant installing one of these filter set ups?
It is cheap easy to install insurance against contamination in the cooling system. Same opinion as everybody else, well worth the effort and expense.