took the old 74 F250 for a moving trip today and on the way home a noise got worse. after inspection I think its the bearings on the read diff case, the bearing where the drive shaft enters the rear Axel/diff case.

the Diff-case is too hot to touch and I smell burning oil right on the bearing. the noise is horrible and actually shakes the vehicle on each rotation.

I will rip it apart in the morning, but question. is this likely only bearings? any other thoughts to the problem? about 1 year ago I repacked the diff oil and things looked good when I put it back.

 

is the oil level still full?

 

haven't looked yet, but haven't had leaking issues. how do you tell for sure if you have a Dana60 or 61?

I assume I need things like a outer pinion bearing and a pinion seal

that is assuming that the diff still has oil and the damage isn't further down the gears. I don't think it is as only the "front" of the case is HOT the rear is not. if I had no oil I would assume the whole case would be hot from the grinding. (also I do remember dooin a very good job putting it backtogether.

 

[QUOTE=spudgunman;8208245]
the Diff-case is too hot to touch and I smell burning oil right on the bearing. the noise is horrible and actually shakes the vehicle on each rotation.

Hate to say it, but a total rebuild is probably in order, based on your description. Remove the rear cover and grab your ring gear and try to move it up and down and watch for slop with the spider gears in the differential. You can almost allready fiqure the diferential and pinion bearings are toast. The next question would be the shape of the ring and pinion gears. I'd stop driving it. Welding a pinion bearing race to the housing or pinion shaft due to heat just plain sucks.

 

ACK! well I will be crossing my fingers that that isn't the case! I hope its just my inner and outer bearings if not just one.

rather it be a 30 buck fix then a 400 buck fix!


how do I tell the ratio and the Dana 60 or 61 axle? for sure? looks like the bearings are the same for the inner/outer

74 390 2bbl F250 camper special

 

[QUOTE=spudgunman;
how do I tell the ratio and the Dana 60 or 61 axle? for sure? looks like the bearings are the same for the inner/outer

74 390 2bbl F250 camper special[/QUOTE]

I Found this information on another forum:


"I have previously researched the D61 and knew it could be converted to use the D60 gears.
A little history on the D61. Ford used them in the rear of some vans, what years I don't know. Dodge used the D61 in the front of the 3/4 ton and 1 ton diesel truck in the first generation Cummins 1988-1993 they were only installed when the gear ratio was to be higher than 3.54.
The D61 is just a modified casting of the D60 so the pinion could be offset more to beable to run higher ratios. There are some significant differences though. The carrier has a different offset, the axle tubes are larger and thicker. and it appears to me that the inner C's are a heavier casting. The gear ratios for a D61 only go as low as 4.10"

Your Truck should be a D60 unless it was swapped out. To check the ratio, count the teeth on both the ring gear and pinion. Devide the ring gear teeth number by the pinion teeth number.
PS: Your "ACK!" comment had me laughing my B off....I know what ya mean. I said the same thing about my truck. I "upgraded" to limited slip front and rear. Not "posi traction" that's a cheby term..LOL

 

Rears are a dime a dozen in junk yards. You could change the whole axle out a lot quicker and cheeper than fixing one.

 

You should be able to find a rear axle for less than $100. You won't find bearings for that much if you have to do the carrier as well.

To get the ratio, look at the tag if it is still there, or jack up one wheel, put the truck in neuteral and turn the wheel TWO times, while counting the driveline rotations. If your driveline turns 4.1 times you have 4.10 or 4.11 gears. Slightly more than 3.5 turns would be a 3.54 ratio,

 

thanks for the tips guys. I think I might just start looking for a axle as I pulled it apart, see no bearing damage but I have a good knock out of a tooth on the pinion and the ring took a beating.

so its faster to find a whole new one then bother with this fun. however it would be fun to rip it apart but I just dont want to pay new prices as this is my "junker/fun truck"

I do have the tag and this is the numbers on it

3 54 D3 TA -ZA
603381-4 L - S


I assume the 2nd part is a S/N would the 3.54 be the ratio?
I also noticed that the UJoints are labeled splicer

the drive shaft is the one with the 2(or3) part with the expansion thing in it. (its not a 1 piece)

Question now. what used part do i want to look for? Can I just get any Dana read end? or Do I need to make sure to get one with xxx ratio or anything else?

If I just start searching the junkyards for a 73-79 F250 Dana60 will that be good enough? or do I need to keep in the 3.54 to keep the spedo correct etc?

any advice on rear end replacement etc. those bolts are gonna be HORRIBLE to remove on the U bolts !!

update: doh, I just looked at local yards that are online, Im looking at 400 bucks average for the local pickup's where on earth do you find them for 100 bucks?

 

so if a 3rd member will cost me the price of a craigs list truck.

where is a good cheap place to buy a Dana 60 3.54 Ring and Pinion kit? or do I really need to replace the bearings? can I just replace the gear?

 

Ford ID number; D3TA-ZA / Dana ID number: 603381-4 = Dana 60 / 3.54-1 / LIMITED SLIP / 5300 lb. Rear Axle Capacity.

1973/79 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalog / Rear Axle Parts List # 94.

If you are thinking of buying a complete rear axle from a wrecking yard, find out what the return policy is...and the warranty (if any) is FIRST, before passing along the Green.

The junkyard rear axle may not be any better...than what you have now.

btw: The 3.54-1 ratio is very desireable and very hard to find, as most Dana 60's are either 3.73-1 or 4.10-1.

Is it the rear axle...or not...that's making the noise?

Two Piece Driveshaft: It could be a defective driveshaft center support bearing > >

D9TZ4800A .. Driveshaft Center Support Kit / Includes the bearing, shims, rubber center support and brackets / Available from Ford.

MSRP: $80.70 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $58.10.

PARTSGUYED aka Y2KFORDPARTS.COM = Ed Olson, parts manager of MILLENNIUM FORD in Seattle WA.

The coupling shaft & U-joint (aka rear driveshaft) bolts to the rear axle's companion flange. The companion flange is attached to the R&P's pinion gear.

Behind the companion flange is the pinion seal, inner/outer pinion bearings and races. There are no other gears in this location.

Since noise can radiate thru the entire vehicle, it could be defective U-joints. With a two piece driveshaft, there are three.

One front, one in the middle between the driveshaft/coupling shaft-at the center support, one at the rear.

IMO, since you are unaware of what the problem is, have someone in the know diagnose it...FIRST.

Throwing money at it by buying this part...or that part...that may not be necessary...won't solve anything, and will soon empty your wallet!

 

thanks NumberDummy!

I am 85% sure its the R&P that is making the noise, as its about 3 "bangs" for every tire rotation.

I have taken the drive shaft apart and inspected all the U-joints as well as the Drive shaft Center Support and it all looks to have no wear that is causing the issue. it all spins freely. and looks to be operating properly

In fact if I jack the rear end and I can spin the coupling shaft by hand when the drive shift is disconnected, and I don't hear any horrible noise or feel any binding of bearings.

I am 85% sure its the R&P that is making the noise, as its about 3 "bangs" for every tire rotation.

I do see leaking from the companion flange that I wouldn't expect.

I have found items on line that I can afford for this truck...

OEM DANA 60 3.54 SPICER# 707345 1X bearings,shims kit
Dana 60 3.54 Ring and Pinion Kit (bronco graveyard)

is that the correct part to replace my truck?

 

If you have a 4X4, you HAVE to get a 3.54 axle or ring and pinion. If it is a 2 wheel drive, you can put any ratio in you want.

If you go the ring and pinion route, you have to set them up right or they won't last long. I found instructions on the net and did both of my axles with no problems. Just take your time and (at least for this bone head) it isn't that hard. If you buy a new set of gears it might come with a video of how to set them up. Good luck!