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Sometimes batteries will appear fine when not under load but under heavy load they short out internally. I just had to replace mine, they ran lights, radio, glow plugs, etc. they even read almost 13 volts of charge just sitting there. As soon as you hit the key to start, lights dimmed and it would give about 1/4 of a revolution and quit. New batteries fixed the problem.
I've gotta go with dave on this one most of these rigs still have the original cables and they will start the truck years after they are bad without you really noticing it until you replace everything and you think wow this thing didn't spin this fast when it was new.
Bad batteries also make the starters wear out prematurly running on low voltage after awhile.
In the second post he made, the batteries were replaced a couple months ago.
I know that don't mean much with modern quality control, but it is enough for me to move them down the list to last place.
Batteries and cables that deliver less than full current to the starter do shorten it's life.
Cranks slow, so it is hard to start, which results in longer cranking times and more heat in the starter.
Heat is a big enemy in electric motors.
With new batteries, I am going to guess both the batteries and positive cable needs replaced.
Since both are on the expensive side, now the question is which is worse.
Does the starter have enough left that new cables can buy you a little time?
Or do the cables have enough left that they won't kill the new starter if you go the other way.
Okay fellas, sorry it took me so long to get back to you, I got the truck going and needed to do the work I had planned for the day. I jumped it vehicle to vehicle, my neighbors van to my passenger battery, after about 10 minutes of connection, I tried starting once WTS went out and it fired right up, quickly and smoothly. That was the best/easiest the truck has ever started. Obviously the blockwarmer worked last night because it should have been colder than hell if it didn't(it was 21 degrees when I finally got truck started) so what's your take on this? What could be causing my issues?
I also thought I'd add, I'm reasonably sure that the warmer worked too, because when the truck started, the truck didn't smoke like normal once started. Idk if this helps but figured I'd share everything.
Look at the passenger side battery cable.
Pay close attention to the insulation near the battery clamp.
Does it look swollen, discolored or cracking brittle?
If so, then you have corrosion inside the cable and clamp.
The clamp and cable conductor are not making a good connection.
If the starter will crank, the resistance in the clamp will make the clamp hot under that much load.
A new cable is the only fix, those wires are to big to use any bolt on clamps for a repair.
New cables, minimum of 2/0 copper wire size, not tiny cable like you would find on a car.
If the battery terminals have not been cleaned recently, that is another location that could be causing problems.
They should have been cleaned when the new batteries were installed, but I have seen that step skipped at many auto parts stores.
Orileys has one, dont know if ya have near by, otherwise you could order it. Best price I have found so far, 75 bucks only, all 2/0 gauge too. Item Detail | O'Reilly Auto Parts
There is a website I can't find ...custom battery cables or something like that that had them for sale for a reasonable price.
Not that cheap, but reasonable.
Several people in here used them and liked the quality.
I wish I could get all the information on my computer organized so I could find it when I need it.
I guess I just have to much stuff like site links saved.