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In August 60 miles outside of Amarillo the truck died, I took it to a local ford dealer and payed over $3500 to have the HPOP replaced. during this repair the tech broke the dipstick, clips, a conector, and left the truck a mess. Over the last few months I have noticed a exhaust leak, From what I could tell it was around the Y-Pipe, So I bought a new one for $250. I started the project wed, What A pain, every bolt I touched broke or rounded off. There was even LOC-Tite on the turbo hold down bolts. You try removing the rear turbo bolt when it is loc-tited!
When I got to the egr clamp I found that it did not have the bolt or nut in it. No wonder I had a leak!! 4 days, and $350 in parts because a tech did not clamp the egr cooler back down.
Re-Affirms the old adage "You get what you inspect, Not what you expect"...which is pretty crappy for a dealership. You really have to know these trucks and what is done with them (unless you do the work yourself)...but so many trusting soles take it to a dealer or local mechanic and this stuff happens. Not against dealer or private shops...(I mean not everyone has the proper tools or knowledge)...just know your truck and know what to look for even if it means demanding the service tech walk you through it. KRDiesel...man I know you're torqued.
did you see the loc tite.. what color was it?
Really I will tell you I did a y-pipe today on an 03 took 3hours to do. broke 2 exhaust bolts at the Y pipe and striped 2 of the turbo to pedistel bolts. This is very common as they either seem to lock themselfs in or they fall off. I have a tools to remove them once they are round.
As a tech and this is nothing personal.. 03/04 just suck to work on
wow f-me red loctite man that sucks.... there bad enugh with out that.
dont be impressed Its how I earn my keep. I do nothing but 7.3,60,6.4 repairs day after day.
KRDiesel, I had a similar thing happen after my motor was dropped 2 years ago to replace the bedplate oil leak. I bought a new HD torque converter this spring after my turbo grenaded and when the shop was installing the new torque converter, they found that the nuts had been stripped holding the torque converter on and one was missing. Also, the bell housing was missing two bolts. It did cost a bit more money in labor, but at least I know things are correct now.
The problem is: how do you inspect the bolts on the torque converter after a repair? That was beyond me and my skills, so I'm just glad I didn't run into bigger problems. The thing is that the dealership who does this will never stand up to it (not saying that they all do this) and so you're the one left with the bill or the headache of fixing it yourself.