I really need help! Starting Issue
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I really need help! Starting Issue
OK. I know I have asked several questions regarding this topic, but I cant get my truck to start. I have a couple things I am unsure on and I hope that I can get some help. 1) Wall mounted soleniod - Can someone please tell me the wires that go on each terminal and if they read + or - in the normal position and in the start/run position when they are all hooked up. 2) If I have a grounded wire in the starting system, what is the easiest way to find it? The starter, soleniod, ignition switch, and ignition tumbler are new. The battery is charged and tested fine. The ignition module tested fine as well. So I am not sure what is left that could be bad other than a grounded wire. Like I said before I recently had a tranny installed and they somehow jumped it from under the hood so I could drive it home. I bought an under-the-hood starter switch to try to do the same thing, but it did not work. PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!
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Thanks! I got it turning over by the hand starter, but I wasn't getting spark. I was checking stuff over and I found that the three wire plug that come from the distributer was all broken apart, so I got one of those but I ran out of daylight. Tommorow I am going to change that out and replace the accelerator pump gasket and see if I can get her started. After that I am going to see if I can figure out the problem with the wiring. Thanks for the help guys!
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Austin, TX
The accelerator pump isn't going to get it started. Connect a test light from the TACH TEST terminal of the coil connector down to ground. The coil needs to remain connected during this test, so use the exposed metal on the connector to clip your light. Make sure the light is grounded on clean, unpainted metal on the engine block. Crank the motor over from the cab (with the ignition switch), and the light should BLINK. Post your results.
To answer your solenoid wiring question - one of the heavy lugs connects to the positive battery terminal, the other heavy lug goes to the starter cable. The hot-in-START wire goes to the small 'S' terminal. Some solenoids have a 4th 'I' terminal to provide full battery voltage to the coil when cranking. I can't recall the colors right now; maybe someone else can chime in. The solenoid grounds through the fenderwell.
To answer your solenoid wiring question - one of the heavy lugs connects to the positive battery terminal, the other heavy lug goes to the starter cable. The hot-in-START wire goes to the small 'S' terminal. Some solenoids have a 4th 'I' terminal to provide full battery voltage to the coil when cranking. I can't recall the colors right now; maybe someone else can chime in. The solenoid grounds through the fenderwell.
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I noticed the pump was leaking that is why I am replacing that gasket. I got it turning over I just dont have spark. The coil pickup plug is destroyed so I am replacing it. I will try the suggestion with the coil after I get those things rerplaced and I will post my findings. Thanks for the help.
MSEE
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From: Austin, TX
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My suspicion is that the magnetic pickup inside the distributor might not be triggering your ignition box. The wiring harness coming out of the distributor is all about this. I recently had a persistently intermintent problem with mine. When it acted up, it wouldn't run period. I had retired the stock ignition box and use an MSD 6a box. Because the MSD box can be triggered by points instead of an electronic trigger, replacing my distributor with a point's distributor solved my problem. I haven't had that problem once since replacing the distributor. Its vitally important that your magnetic trigger and it's wiring coming out of the distributor are working properly.
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So I replaced the coil pickup, which was a pain in the "A"! When I did this I was having a tough time getting the little gear that sits at the bottom on the inside of the distributor and I broke half of one of the arms off. After I finished I figured I would see if it would still work so I replaced the parts and put it all back together including the part that had the piece break. Anyway I am getting spark from the coil to the cap the truck has fuel and it is turning over, but it will not start. Will that small part broken from that gear looking thing on the inside of the distributor keep it from running?
If so where can I get one without buying a whole new distributor?
If so where can I get one without buying a whole new distributor?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
The piece that broke off won't keep it from running, it will just cause a miss. Each vane on this part (called an armature) corresponds to one cylinder; each time one moves past the pickup (a Hall Effect sensor), the ignition module is signalled to fire the coil.
I'm not really sure where you'd find a replacement armature. If you can't get it at a parts store (you'll have a hard time finding someone behind the desk who even knows what one is), the junkyard would be your best bet.
I'm not really sure where you'd find a replacement armature. If you can't get it at a parts store (you'll have a hard time finding someone behind the desk who even knows what one is), the junkyard would be your best bet.
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The piece that broke off won't keep it from running, it will just cause a miss. Each vane on this part (called an armature) corresponds to one cylinder; each time one moves past the pickup (a Hall Effect sensor), the ignition module is signalled to fire the coil.
I'm not really sure where you'd find a replacement armature. If you can't get it at a parts store (you'll have a hard time finding someone behind the desk who even knows what one is), the junkyard would be your best bet.
I'm not really sure where you'd find a replacement armature. If you can't get it at a parts store (you'll have a hard time finding someone behind the desk who even knows what one is), the junkyard would be your best bet.
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Tommorow I am going to try and find one of those armatures at a junk yard. I was reading in the Chiltons that each half tooth error (the armature and stator) is equal to 7 3/4 degrees of timing error. So I am thinking that I may not have lined everything thing up right. I am going to test to make sure that I am getting spark at my plugs and then I am going to loosen the distributor and give her a smidge of a turn and see if that helps. I would buy a timing light however I have blown alot of my funds already and will have to wait. Does this sound like a good idea or no.
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I am going to put a screwdriver in the boot and hold it near a pulley bracket. I dont have the special ford spark tester and this is the only way I know to check for spark. Is this an issue?