I really need help! Starting Issue
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 59
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Just a reminder: If you're gonna' tackle any wire issues, you may want to check those fusible links first. Guess it's because I've had a nasty time with those suckers...Anyways, thanks for sharing, and good luck dude.........
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 131
Likes: 2
From: southern cal.
SHE"S ALIVE! I got her running today finally! Runs great, sounds great and the new tranny shifts like a dream! However, when I was driving around I notice the headlights started to slowly dim and the the radio stopped working. I shut it off and tried to restart it when I got home and nothing. The battery is dead. I was able to jump it but it took awhile to do so. I had the battery checked awhile ago and tested fine. Could all the turning over (trying to get it running) the past couple of weeks caused the battery to not accept a charge? Or could it be my alternator or my voltage regulator? Please share your endless wisdom!
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Senior User
Joined: May 2009
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So I checked the voltage on the battery and it was at 7.5 volts. I took it in got it charged and it tested good. I put it back in the truck started it up and checked the voltage and it was still 12 volts. It then began to slowly drop. Next I checked the alt belt and it seemed to be tight enough. Now what?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 59
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It's a good chance it is a bad alternator, but if not, it's probably a bad connection some where. It still sounds like a bad fusible link to me. They are usually located up by the solenoid (very easy to replace). Good luck..
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Senior User
Joined: May 2009
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I took the alt in and had it tested. It was bad. SO I purchased a lifetime alt and took it home......I forgot to mention I also replaced the water-pump gaskets because they were leaking. Anyway, I put it in the truck and started it up and still only < 12volts. I checked the fusible link right by the soleniod and it had current on both sides of the link. I am at a loss here. Is there anything in the ignition area the has to do with the alt. I had to wire in a switch to drive it and maybe I missed something that works with the alt.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 91
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From: Canada
what do you mean when you said ...I had to wire in a switch to drive it.....
what does the switch do?
what does the switch do?
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Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 132
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So does the alt have any wiring that goes through the ignition switch that may be messed up and cause it not to allow the alt to charge?
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 91
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From: Canada
When they replaced your tranny did they mess up the neutral safety switch? 
Could be why it wont crank.
The small connector (red) on the solenoid next to the large + battery terminal should be +12v when the key is in start position. The other small terminal (blue) should be +12v while it is cranking only to feed the fuel pump & coil circuit (while cranking).
Could be why it wont crank. The small connector (red) on the solenoid next to the large + battery terminal should be +12v when the key is in start position. The other small terminal (blue) should be +12v while it is cranking only to feed the fuel pump & coil circuit (while cranking).
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Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 132
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When they replaced your tranny did they mess up the neutral safety switch? Could be why it wont crank.
The small connector (red) on the solenoid next to the large + battery terminal should be +12v when the key is in start position. The other small terminal (blue) should be +12v while it is cranking only to feed the fuel pump & coil circuit (while cranking).
Could be why it wont crank. The small connector (red) on the solenoid next to the large + battery terminal should be +12v when the key is in start position. The other small terminal (blue) should be +12v while it is cranking only to feed the fuel pump & coil circuit (while cranking).
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Canada
disconnect the red wire on the alternator and with an ohm meter test it to ground. If you get continuity it is grounded somewhere. With the truck running and the wire off check the post on the alternator for +12 volts.
Watch out for the fan and belts
Watch out for the fan and belts
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 131
Likes: 2
From: southern cal.
As long as were replacing stuff....try a new regulator. The alternator should be putting out closer to 14 right? The regulator decides if the battery needs it or not. (When it's working right.)