Factory Brake controller
#16
Hitting the manual side of the brake controller has the same effect electrically as hitting the brake pedal- it turns on the brake lights. I know aftermarket controllers do this through the brake switch sense wire, they just feed 12v back through to turn on the lights the same as hitting the brakes. I can't imagine Ford did this any differently, especially since it is such a simple solution.
#17
The manual slider is basically an E-Brake for your trailer.
If you'll notice, you can pull your slider halfway to, and the % applied bar will only fill halfway.
I don't believe the manual slider cares about gain... it will act the same at 0.5 and 10.0
I can lock my 10,000# TTs brakes with the slider moving <5mph, but not with full brakes at 10.0 yet I still have good trailer braking while driving with the gain at 7.0
If you'll notice, you can pull your slider halfway to, and the % applied bar will only fill halfway.
I don't believe the manual slider cares about gain... it will act the same at 0.5 and 10.0
I can lock my 10,000# TTs brakes with the slider moving <5mph, but not with full brakes at 10.0 yet I still have good trailer braking while driving with the gain at 7.0
#18
Wondering about this as well? My old '04 F350 with a Prodigy controller was awesome for my 5th wheel. I could keep it set on an 8.5 setting with mid "pre-sense" and you knew you had trailer brakes that worked and almost would lock the trailer brakes. And when using the manual bar you could lock the trailer brakes at a standstill with no problem. (ie for a "pull test")
Now my 2010 Ford integrated controller has to be maxed out at a 10 setting to get "just decent" brake performance on the same 5th wheel. And no real lock-up at a standstill either for a pull test.
Having the dealer check the output to make sure.
Comments appreciated!
Now my 2010 Ford integrated controller has to be maxed out at a 10 setting to get "just decent" brake performance on the same 5th wheel. And no real lock-up at a standstill either for a pull test.
Having the dealer check the output to make sure.
Comments appreciated!
#20
#21
Although I do not have a factory controller, this issue should be very simple to resolve. If Ford can't do it, take it to an RV service center. We all have emulators and you can sit right with me and watch the amp reading when you hit the pedal. The emulators just mimic the trailer brakes and have an amp meter built in.
I think getting some real world amp readings here would help.
Just my two cents,
Steve
I think getting some real world amp readings here would help.
Just my two cents,
Steve
#22
#23
As I understand it, this controller works manually, which argues against a bad ground at the rear seven pin. My hunch is a bad controller.
Steve
#24
Ok, I just came back from a camping trip and got so frustrated with the TBC as it acted up all the way to and from. Today, I switched the actual TBC with my uncles pickup(same year and model). Same issues came up. I connected his TBC while my truck was on and it didn't work by pressing the brake pedal. The manual slider worked fine as with mine. I then unplugged my trailer and turned off my truck. I plugged the trailer back and turned on my truck and, walla, it worked. I unplugged the trailer while leaving my truck on and went for a short drive. Hooked the trailer back up and nothing. I'm so damn frustrated with this thing. I dont want to have to buy an aftermarket as I like this one when it actually works. I might just take RV_Tech's advise.
#25
Hopefully by now you have resolved your TBC issues cuz I solved mine. Turned out is was two bad batteries. They had enough charge to turn on my truck but not enough to work other things very well apparantely. I had them checked because my truck started cranking very weak. Turned out 1 was almost completely dead and that other was not handling the load. Hopefully you have the same problem and can fix it this way. Good luck.
#26
Hopefully by now you have resolved your TBC issues cuz I solved mine. Turned out is was two bad batteries. They had enough charge to turn on my truck but not enough to work other things very well apparantely. I had them checked because my truck started cranking very weak. Turned out 1 was almost completely dead and that other was not handling the load. Hopefully you have the same problem and can fix it this way. Good luck.
#27
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
robear54
Other; Brakes, Electrical, Hitches, Weight Distribution & CDL Discussion
5
07-28-2012 09:39 AM
eman588G
Other; Brakes, Electrical, Hitches, Weight Distribution & CDL Discussion
10
05-14-2012 12:11 PM
gator120
Other; Brakes, Electrical, Hitches, Weight Distribution & CDL Discussion
7
08-19-2008 06:25 AM