87 Bronco 2

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Nov 10, 2009 | 11:37 AM

TC KId

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87 Bronco 2

I have an 87 Bronco 2 (2.9 liter) that will not run smoothly, it gets worse as the engine warms up, not overheating. I have replaced the following parts:ACT sensor, EVP sensor, ECT sensor, MAP sensor and EGO sensor, thermostat, EGR valve and the problem persists. Can anyone give me any advise to get this problem solved?

Nov 10, 2009 | 05:23 PM

mrshorty

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From: UT

I would probably start with some basic diagnostic steps:

1) pull codes from the computer. '87's didn't come with a functioning CEL so you have to specifically "ask the computer" if it sees a problem.

2) Check fuel pressure/fuel delivery to make sure it looks normal.

3) Check for vacuum leaks.

Nov 11, 2009 | 10:52 AM

MessengerII

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From: Oxford, Ga.

Question abt 87 Bronco

Noticed that you replaced a number of sensors etc. Did you replace a 5 wire green in color ....rectangle in shape, located on the passenger side fender weld? I cannot find a replacement ...don t have a number.

also....does the 87 have a fuse box under the hood....with a fuse that controls the 4 wheel drive?
Thanks

Nov 11, 2009 | 10:27 PM

mrshorty

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From: UT

Quote:

That sounds like the fuel pump relay. You might get a wiring diagram (even the one in Chiltons should be adequate), and see if the wire colors going into the "sensor" match the wires going to the fuel pump relay.

Quote:

also....does the 87 have a fuse box under the hood....with a fuse that controls the 4 wheel drive?

Mine didn't have a fuse box under the hood (it wouldn't have had a 4wd fuse because it was manual shift). There were several "fusible links" off of the starter solenoid, and the relays were mounted to the passenger fender. No fuse box under the hood.

Nov 12, 2009 | 08:22 AM

deve

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i have the same problem on my 2.9. my rings broke it runs fine when it cold but doesn't like to stay started when in warms up. do a compression test.

Nov 12, 2009 | 10:47 PM

rebocardo

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From: Atlanta GA

Assuming the engine itself is fine, the very first "guess" part I would have done is the TFI module because this is the most likely part to cause a problem. They can die without codes or warnings or start to die and cause a slew of codes. Usually rough idle and loss of power, especially when hot, are the tell tale signs.

Nov 21, 2009 | 10:23 AM

TC the kid

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TFI screw

Can anyone tell me what type of screw holds on the TFI module? It is positioned on the distibutor near the firewall and I can't see the screw with an inspection mirror.

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Nov 22, 2009 | 04:14 PM

rebocardo

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From: Atlanta GA

Sometimes a torx anti-thief screw, mostly they can be reached with a 1/4" thin wall socket, I think it is 9/32. Note that there may be a plastic cover over it that you have to pop off with a thin screw driver (think used for eyeglasses) by sliding it between the cap and the body of the TFI module.

Quick noob tips.

Mark the base of the dist against the engine with white out (or anything other perm.) and the #1 on the cap where it is against the firewall so you can easily line up the dist later.

Stand on the driver's side and loosen the dist. using a 1/2"/13 mm? wrench.

Go to pass side and undo wire harness and turn the dist towards the pass. side counter clock wise. That will make getting at the two screws much easier. Especially if you have to pop the caps off to get at the screws.

They sell a tool for the screws at most auto places, looks like a short socket on a ****. Only useful if the screws had already been loosen before, from the factory they are very tight and you need a ratchet to loosen. I keep a tool and spare TFI in my glove box.