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Well I was removing my drivers side exhaust manifold and I broke off 2 bolts. They were the upper front and upper rear exhaust bolts. I used a right angle drill and drilled out the front bolt, then I bought a 3/8" tap and I was screwing it in and backing it out. Then I screwed it in and twisted it a little to much and it broke off flush with the head. Now what??
I gave up trying to remove the rear bolt since it is so hard to get room to work on it. Right now, I put it back together with new gaskets and no upper ends bolts installed and it has no leaks, yet. Who knows how long that will last though.
So, how can I remove that tap?? It is not in there very tight if it is turned counterclockwise.
There are special tap extractors, but I just use a torch. Use a really small tip, heat the tap till it glows, and give it a shot of oxygen. This is a good way to get anything out of cast iron, the steel melts and can be blown out, usually leaving the threads.
I have saved many thousands of dollars for employers using this method, the latest was actually an exhaust manifold stud on a Cat C15. Idiot drunk so-called "mechanic" tried to tap the hole with a fine thread metric tap, I wound up having to drill it out and heli-coil it after I got the tap out.
Some taps are brittle as you found out. I have had good luck with a hammer and punch. Smack what is left of the tap and it usually breaks into smaller pieces.
I like the two ideas, melt it or freeze it!! Having been a commercial door installer, can't begin to count the times I have snapped taps while threading doors and jambs for hardware - usually my fault for being impatient or even using a cordless drill to drive the tap.
I do know this though, don't waste your time trying to drill it out. Taps snap because they are made of hardened metal (so that the tap will cut the threads and not the metal of the hole smash the tap).DUH! Like the difference between a grade 3 and grade 8 bolt. Grade 3 bolt will stretch, twist. Grade 8 - snap.
I am going to try that freeze method. Usually I just move over and do a new set of holes. Trying to drill is useless to me because the drill will drift off the tap and start into the metal I want to save.
take a 1/4 inch drive deepwell socket thats slightly smaller than the tap and with a thin cutoff wheel grind 4 fingers that will fit down in the flutes of the tap and gently back it out.
If you can't tap it around and out with a punch, find someone with a mig welder.
Place a nut over the tap and weld down through the nut, welding the nut to the tap.
Use a wrench and back it out.
I'm a machinist by trade and i've found that the heating in the cast iron works very well. Never tried freezing one. I usually try the hammer and punch method first. Most of the time they shatter into smaller pieces. Drilling with a normal drill bit is not an option. Has to be carbide or something similar to it.
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