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How do you remove broken off tap?

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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 07:49 PM
  #1  
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How do you remove broken off tap?

Well I was removing my drivers side exhaust manifold and I broke off 2 bolts. They were the upper front and upper rear exhaust bolts. I used a right angle drill and drilled out the front bolt, then I bought a 3/8" tap and I was screwing it in and backing it out. Then I screwed it in and twisted it a little to much and it broke off flush with the head. Now what??

I gave up trying to remove the rear bolt since it is so hard to get room to work on it. Right now, I put it back together with new gaskets and no upper ends bolts installed and it has no leaks, yet. Who knows how long that will last though.

So, how can I remove that tap?? It is not in there very tight if it is turned counterclockwise.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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There are special tap extractors, but I just use a torch. Use a really small tip, heat the tap till it glows, and give it a shot of oxygen. This is a good way to get anything out of cast iron, the steel melts and can be blown out, usually leaving the threads.
I have saved many thousands of dollars for employers using this method, the latest was actually an exhaust manifold stud on a Cat C15. Idiot drunk so-called "mechanic" tried to tap the hole with a fine thread metric tap, I wound up having to drill it out and heli-coil it after I got the tap out.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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Some taps are brittle as you found out. I have had good luck with a hammer and punch. Smack what is left of the tap and it usually breaks into smaller pieces.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 06:11 PM
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drill into the tap and then use an ez out extractor and break that off in it as well! lol
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Danger_Dave
drill into the tap and then use an ez out extractor and break that off in it as well! lol
Has that been your experience?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 11:41 PM
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You can also freeze them with freon and shatter them with a punch.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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I like the two ideas, melt it or freeze it!! Having been a commercial door installer, can't begin to count the times I have snapped taps while threading doors and jambs for hardware - usually my fault for being impatient or even using a cordless drill to drive the tap.
I do know this though, don't waste your time trying to drill it out. Taps snap because they are made of hardened metal (so that the tap will cut the threads and not the metal of the hole smash the tap).DUH! Like the difference between a grade 3 and grade 8 bolt. Grade 3 bolt will stretch, twist. Grade 8 - snap.

I am going to try that freeze method. Usually I just move over and do a new set of holes. Trying to drill is useless to me because the drill will drift off the tap and start into the metal I want to save.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 01:24 AM
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if you can look for blue wizards or hy pro taps they don't break easily.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 01:51 PM
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maybe a couple of upside down cans of computer duster will be the cheapest route for you?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 07:24 PM
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take a 1/4 inch drive deepwell socket thats slightly smaller than the tap and with a thin cutoff wheel grind 4 fingers that will fit down in the flutes of the tap and gently back it out.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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If you can't tap it around and out with a punch, find someone with a mig welder.
Place a nut over the tap and weld down through the nut, welding the nut to the tap.
Use a wrench and back it out.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 02:14 AM
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I'm a machinist by trade and i've found that the heating in the cast iron works very well. Never tried freezing one. I usually try the hammer and punch method first. Most of the time they shatter into smaller pieces. Drilling with a normal drill bit is not an option. Has to be carbide or something similar to it.
 
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