So my girlfriends car needs a new head. people say get new head bolts but the combined cost for bolts and washers is $32.99 + $17.99(This is from advance auto). Can I just go to ace hardware and get some bolts or what is the deal here?

 

dude no way, the bolts that you but are specifically designed to stretch and hold the head down, i wouldn't use stock headbolts on anything but stock ones are definately better than hardware store ones lol. if the head bolts failed i would reccomend calling arp fasteners and getting a good set of bolts that will last a lifetime

and that price is cheap for head bolts i paid 121.95 for the ones in my truck

 

no. headbolts are made of a special metal, hardened steel. the hardware store bolts are not designed for automotive engines.

 

I know they say they stretch as you torque them down. But if they are made of special metal, hardened steel why do they stretch?
I have always used the old head bolts over again and I have never had a problem with over the hundreds of engines both GM, Chrysler and Ford in 50 years of doing it.
I did buy some for a BII one time but not when I tore it down the next time (to replace bearings and not for the heads).

 

the last class we had someone asked that question and the felpro tech teaching the class said the headbolts needed to be replaced because they do stretch each time they are torqued and at some point could break off. that made more sense to me than the stretch to allow for expansion thing most people said.

 

They stretch to provide a clamping force. Some engines require a "Stretch to Yield" or "Torque To Yield" head bolt. That means that when they are removed from the engine they do not unstretch and must be replaced. The Ford Escort had at least 1 engine with Stretch to Yeild Head bolts.

Doom899 never did tell us what the girlfriends car was....hell, it might be a Hyundai, or KIA. If that were the case Drywall screws would work nicely.

 

if its a kia he could use alabama chrome to hold the head on. (shameless duct tape reference)

 

I have never seen or heard of a head bolt braking off when using a torque wrench. I think they are just trying to sell head bolts.

Has anyone ever measured a new and torqued head bolt to see if they are the same.

The Ford Shop Manual says nothing about replacing the bolts on the 5.0 or the 5.8 engine.
Here is what it says:
3. The cylinder head bolts are tightened in three progressive steps, for the 5.8L EFI (351 CID) W-V-8, and in two steps for the 5.0L EFI (302 CID) V-8. Tighten all the bolts in sequence to:

For the 5.8L (351 CID) W-V-8
first step--115 N-m (85 ft-lb)
second step--129 N-m (95 ft-lb)
third step--143-151 N-m (105-112 ft-lb)

For the 5.0L (302 CID) EFI V-8
first step--75-88 N-m (55-65 ft-lb)
second step--88-97 N-m (65-72 ft-lb)

When cylinder head bolts have been tightened following this procedure, it is not necessary to retighten the bolts after extended operation. However, the bolts may be checked and retightened if desired.

The 460:
3. Position new cylinder head gaskets on block over dowels. Do not apply sealer to head gasket surfaces. Place cylinder heads on block, guiding exhaust manifold studs into muffler inlet pipe connections. Install remaining attaching bolts (longer bolts in lower row of bolt holes). Tighten all cylinder head attaching bolts in sequence in three steps: first to 108-122 N-m (80-90 ft-lb), then to 136-149 N-m (100-110 ft-lb), and finally to 177-189 N-m (130-140 ft-lb). When this procedure is used, it is not necessary to tighten bolts after extended operation.

And for the 300:
6. Tighten the bolts in numerical sequence shown. Bolts are tightened in three steps.
Step 1: Tighten all bolts to 67-75 N-m (50-55 ft-lb).
Step 2: Tighten all bolts to 82-88 N-m (60-65 ft-lb).
Step 3: Tighten all bolts to 94-115 N-m (70-85 ft-lb).
When cylinder head bolts have been tightened it is not necessary to re-tighten the bolts after extended operation.

 

i agree with you SF on not having to replace them on any v6 or v8 i ever did either. i have never built a 4 cyl so i cant comment on that. but on almost any rice burner you look at they say to replace them. maybe it as you said and they are just wanting to make next months bills off you but as you can usually build 2 v8's for the amount of cash it takes to build one 4 cyl and we are only talking about 20bucks or so for most i would go ahead and do it if it was me. i hate having to re-do anything.

 

I have never done a 4 cyl or a rice burner. As I said the only one that I worked on that this came up on was a 1986 BII with a V-6 2.9L.

 

so does fel pro make good quality bolts? by the way it is a 96 chrysler town and country 3.8L

 

i would think so since they offer a 1 year warranty on their gasket sets and recommend using their own headbolts with those sets.

 

it doesnt say to replace them on the 5.0/5.8 because they have IRON heads. iron headed beasts dont have the stretch to yeild bolts because the metal is the same block and head. the stretch to yeild bolts came about with the advent of aluminum heads on iron blocks,because the as they get hot the aluminum expands at a different rate than the steel. the bolts accept that expansion and *stretch* to the max that it allows while maintaining the torque load between the lock and head. and yes once used and removed from engine they are finished. so in short, replace the headbolts on the car, its not a gimmick to sell more bolts. not all applications on their screen will say recommend bolt replacement, just the ones that use stretch bolts.

 

do you oil the bolts or add sealant to the threads?

 

Hey bud you tacked this question onto the end of a really old thread so don't be surprised if none of those people reply.

As for your question.. it depends, there could be a requirement for either of those depending what motor you are working on.....