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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 01:50 PM
  #1  
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Fuel system mods....

Sorry for the repeated questions on fuel system upgrades, but I just want to make sure I am clear on what to buy now.

I am going to install the ITP in-tank mod kit and the new Walbro pump I bought after (and during) the recent ebay fiasco
I intend to buy a good marine application after market diesel fuel filter for between the tank and pump, so what are the specs I should be looking for? In my notes I figgered between 90-130 gph and about 55-75psi working pressure. Anywhere up to a 20 micron filter, is that about right, or no?

Also, if the fuel is flowing fairly rapidly, how effective are in line water separators? I mean, I imagine if the fuel and water is mixed in the tank enough to where it gets picked up anyway, will its brief trip through the filter be enough for the water top settle again, or is that just a waste of time?

Again, thanks for not making those of us slightly LESS mechanically gifted not feel TOO dumb for asking these sort of questions.

Cheers, David.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 02:08 PM
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If your getting the kit from ITP, why not just get the filter that comes with it?


EDIT: The specs for the Baldwin BF1212, which comes with the ITP kit are found here, http://www.itpdiesel.com/other/FuelS...Kit-Manual.pdf. Those are the directions for the in-tank kit.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 02:59 PM
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I have the ITP kit, and ran their filter and now run the napa equivalent filter (sine i can pick it up local)

As far as your walbro pump goes, have you had any trouble with your stocker? Or just feel the need to replace it? The oem one is pretty durable, and with the fuel mods on both sides (intank and regulated return fuel system) IMO there isnt any reason to swap out, untill you get into pretty large injectors.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 03:49 PM
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Mike, I have 140k on the stocker and just figgered while I am working on the system now wouldn't be a bad time to swap out. I am in a remote (parts wise) location so figgered on buying a spare, but now I have the Walbro on the way, may as well change it out and keep the stocker for a spare. Thanks for linking the detructions Jeff, I hadn't seen the specs on the Baldwin anywhere before, and to answer both, I had just assumed that a Racor or something like might be a better filter *with* water separator and easier elements when it's time to replace. Now I see the specs and interchange list I think I will just go woth the whole ITP setup as I really do like the look of that mounting kit, it obviously suits our application well. And I order oil, air and fuel filters already from WIX, so can just add this to the list.
Thanks again, you guys rock. In only two responses and a couple of hours I have what I need.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 03:59 PM
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For what its worth, I have 218k, our early 99 has 230k, our 01 has 17Xk, and our other 02 in the 180k range. None of them have had a single fuel pump issue. You may just consider keeping the walbro for a backup. Many people go a long, long time without a need to replace their fuel pump. And often it is replaced, and later found to be a seperate part that actually was the culprit (IE the oem screen on the pickup line, etc which you are taking care of with the intank kit) One time, I thought mine had failed, but infact found out I had some gelling of the fuel, primarily in the filter on the frame rail. So I ordered a spare, and replaced the filter, and now religiously change the filter, before, and after every winter. Thats been 20k or so miles ago. The origional champ is still running tough. And the new one, has been used for sucking air out of generator fuel lines LOL. You can replace it if you like, but I personally would not. Not as reliable as the OEM one is. I actually hear of more FASS failures then stock fuel pump failures. But I think FASS has or is redesigning now.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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Im like Mike, my factory fuel pump wnet 250K miles and when I replaced it with my FASS/DFA system it technically did not need to be replaced. it now sits on a shelf in my shop waiting to be used as a spare. As far as filters go, the filter head that comes with the ITP kit can accept alot of different filters, I am currently running a 2 micron baldwin with a water seperator, that I got from the big truck shop. It would be overkill for ya'll that are keeping the fuel bowl, but I deleted mine, and I want the best filtration i can get.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 04:30 PM
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Hey Mike, I think why were on the band wagon with the fuel pumps is, we seen a few fuel pump possible failures here recently and there was a great deal on fuel pumps on E-bay, had some problems but some guys got Walbros where others like me got the house brand and it wasn't the right pump, live and learn thing...
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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Dont get me wrong, if someone "wants" to replace their fuel pump, then by all means go for it. But in my oppinion, if I was going to replace the fuel pump and had stock or small injectors in my future, it would either be like Dan (Kwikordead) did with the pump in the tank to eliminate air, or one of those fancy fuel lab pumps. Assuming mine died. With large injectors in the future, I would either double up on stockers, or the fuel lab again. I have a hard time getting away from the oem piece, because the durability just seems to be there. And like I said, typically when someone thinks they need a fuel pump, its actually the screen in the tank is plugged, but if the dealer, or someone unaware of the 7.3l fuel system was doing it, they would replace the fuel pump first. Mainly because its easier. I know in one recent thread I said it was a possibility the pump was bad, but also, the screen in the tank should have been checked before they should go buy a pump.

Just my feelings on the subject.
I am a little biased though, me and my fuel pump have been through alot, as have the others at work.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 05:41 PM
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I here yaa Mike, as far as problems with my pump or fuel system, none that I know of, just wanted to get a good deal on a pump that never was and use my stocker as a back up. Plus intank mods were to be done at that time. We appreciate your info Mike.. You too Brandon.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 07:22 PM
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Here's what I'm using for my pre-pump. Remember, it's *pre-pump*. It's not seeing 70psi, and you certainly don't need 2 micron filtering there. IMHO, those are waaaaay overkill. I've been running this type of filter for 2 years now. I like it because it's inexpensive, and easy to tell when it needs replaced. This one is very similar to what was in the original mixing chamber, so it makes sense to me to use it here.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 03:22 PM
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Yeh, thanks to both mike's for ther answers too. Am I hearing right, that the stocker may be a better pump than the Walbro? I thought the Walbro was supposed to be an improvement on stock. Other than that, my reasoning for changing out was *exactly* the samer as Mike's (BPP's) in that I will be in the tank doing the kit install, may as well add a new pump and filter while I'm laying under there. If the stocker is thought to be better, then I'll just leave it alone and carry the Walbro as a spare.

Cheers, David.


Originally Posted by big poppa pump
I here yaa Mike, as far as problems with my pump or fuel system, none that I know of, just wanted to get a good deal on a pump that never was and use my stocker as a back up. Plus intank mods were to be done at that time. We appreciate your info Mike..
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 07:24 PM
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Hey David, I got this FRx (Clay's CCK Kit) coming soon and will be installing that, then when time allows, the in-tanks. I've been pushing this mod back because of time factors but it'll get done eventually.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 10:59 PM
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I did my pre pump mods today with the ITP kit. When I dropped the tank I was surprised at how clean it was inside, and the screen on the umbrella was clean as a whistle. It seems that the length of the pickup puts the little feet of the umbrella right on the tank bottom. At least it felt that way when I put it back tiogether, after getting the length exactly how it was before the mod.

The hardest part was pushing that 3/8 line over the pickup tube flange! Even soaking it in boiling water I still had a tough time with it, and could only get it about 1/2" past the flange, enough for the clamp anyway. By contrast, it fit kind of loose over the pump inlet, with barely enough room for a clamp between the flange and the pump.

Did the Hutch/harpoon mod too (took 37 gallons of fuel when I was done and there had to be at least 5 gals in there already!)

I wasn't having any issues and I don't think my fittings were leaking, I just did it for preventative reasons and to get another filter. I used the Baldwin setup from ITP, it has a water separator on it too.

So I haven't noticed anything different besides the fuel capacity, but I wasn't really expecting anything since my truck runs great already, and very quiet.

Next I want to do the Dino Fuels regulated return, as soon as they are back in stock.

The only suggestions I could make on the Pre Pump mod are, go to the carwash the night before and clean real good under there to help keep dirt out of things including your eyes, and buy some 3/4" plastic wire loom to sleeve the new line in.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 11:26 PM
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Two questions: Did you drill out the pickup foot so the tube fit better? And did you get the tube in far enough to block off the aux-pickup? That's why it's done...

The pickup shouldn't be setting on the bottom -- about a 1/4" off actually...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 11:42 PM
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Yes I reamed out the tube, and the line completely blocks off the aux pickup. In fact I had to shorten the line by 1/4" to get my original measurement of the stock setup. I could be wrong about it sitting on the bottom, but I just thought it was as my umbrella was slightly bent to one side, and when I put it all back together I thought I felt it touch bottom, but it could have been something else not lined up just right, like the notch. It wouldn't drop completely down at first, then after some wiggling it dropped into place. I am sure I got the gasket seated.

I hope I don't have to drop that tank again!
 
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