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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

223 carb problems... Help me out!!

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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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223 carb problems... Help me out!!

Hey all,

I've got a 223 in my 62 F100. I tried looking for help in the 61-66 forum, but no luck. The 223 was more of the older series anyway! So, I've got a couple issues I can't figure out. The truck began running poorly about a month ago, like it was starving for fuel. I pulled off the road to check it out and it never restarted. I finally dove into it yesterday. It started right up from where I had parked it, but ran pretty badly. It definitely seemed to be a fuel problem, I could smell raw gasoline, but there was no apparent leak. I pulled the oil bath and got the truck to start. It ran for a few seconds before a fountain of gasoline began flowing out of the tube at the top of the carb which stalled and flooded the engine. I then went ahead and rebuilt the carburetor and replaced the fuel pump. It starts right up and runs smoothly but still has the same problem, runs for a few seconds then the fountain of gas starts flowing right down the barrel till it stalls.

What am I missing here? The carb was professionally rebuilt about a year ago and all the gaskets and rubber parts looked fine when I rebuilt it today. Whats happening?

Thanks in advance for the help, I sure need it! Its a daily driver after all
 
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:23 PM
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It sounds as if you have loose debris (rust?) in the fuel system that's causing the float to stick. The "fountain of gas" you describe is symptomatic of fuel overflowing past the needle valve. Another possible cause would be fuel overpressure but you did not mention an electric pump so I'm thinking dirt is contaminating the carburetor. I would take the carburetor apart again (at least open the float bowl) and check for contamination in the bowl and take a good look for contamination in the needle valve. If you find something, you'll need to clean out the fuel system. If there is no fuel filter, it's a good idea to add one.

Lou Manglass
 
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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Just a W.A.G, but I would think that the float is stuck in the full open(down) position or the needle and seat is bad. The truck would start and run until the float chamber fills up and then the fuel pump would be pumping directly into the engine and flooding it. Someone with a better idea should chime in shortly.

Gil
 
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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Thanks for the quick responses guys! Those ideas sound logical to me, I pulled the float chamber cover off and it's spotless in there. In fact, today when I rebuilt it, the kit included a brand new needle and seat assembly. The float itself seems to be a dense foam material, not hollow and it definitely floats, I checked. Is the needle and seat assembly the only suspect? Where is the origin point of that tube at the top of the barrel? Once the fuel flow starts a few seconds after it's running, it flows like a drinking fountain until the engine stalls. I must be missing something. Oh, and there were no extra pieces after the carb rebuild!
 
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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There are two settings for the float; how far it drops when the bowl is empty, and the level at which it shuts off fuel. If you don't set the drop correctly, the needle can come down so far it gets jammed and holds the float down, flooding results. When you assemble the carb the bowl is undoubtedly empty, right?

Are you running a stock fuel pump or electric? Could also be pressure-related.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 09:41 PM
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It is possible for the plastic composite type floats (nitrophyl ?) to become gas-logged and it is a really sneaky critter because they will work for awhile after being air dried and then slowly sink. Possibly float (no pun) it in a can of gas overnight to see if it sinks?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 09:52 PM
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Well, I've got a new stock replacement pump that I installed today, just a rebuilt unit. I've pulled the bowl cover several times now and tried a bunch of different settings for the float but no changes at all. The only difference was when I forced the needle closed, the overflow stopped, but it barely ran and the bowl was nearly empty afterward. I guess that tells me the needle and seat are working properly, as they didn't allow fuel into the bowl, right?

I guess its possible that the float itself isn't working, or maybe the outer bowl cover is physically contacting it, not allowing it to pivot properly. Where can I get a replacement float? All my local parts stores are a no go.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by VintageBlueOval
when I rebuilt it, the kit included a brand new needle and seat assembly.

There is a seal washer on both sides of where the needle seat assy mounts. It is easy to have a leak there and the fuel can leak intro ther bowl without flowing through the needle assy. Check it closely.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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The tube that the gas is flowing out of is a bowl vent designed to do exactly what it's doing. It does sound like it could be a float since you had the problem prior to the rebuild. A float might be available through Dennis Carpenter or "Number Dummy" might come up with something from an obsolete source. A nitrofil float will absorb water and becomes to heavy to work properly. I've always had to replace for that problem although some claim to have successfully dried them out. I never asked which carburetor it has but it still sounds like a float/needle valve problem that you just haven't pinned down yet. The installation/adjustment is very delicate and very specific, you might run through the procedure again following the rebuild kit instructions. Make sure the clip for the needle valve is positioned correctly around the float arm, the float is set per specs with a accurate gauge or the gauge in the rebuild kit, and even check the float drop as mentioned above. It sounds like you've found the problem but just haven't put your finger on it yet.

Best of luck with it, keep us informed what you find.

Lou Manglass
 
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 07:55 AM
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Some of these also had a small spring across the float mount that the float tab dropped down against. If you have one of these be sure it is on the right side of the tab and not holding DOWN on the float.
 
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Old May 27, 2025 | 11:05 PM
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Carb Float Spring

Originally Posted by 52 F3
Some of these also had a small spring across the float mount that the float tab dropped down against. If you have one of these be sure it is on the right side of the tab and not holding DOWN on the float.
Can someone tell me if these springs are required? I did a rebuild of a Holley 6R 2198 B carb and I think my carb originally didn't have a spring, but I may have put one on after noticing the rebuild kit came with one (I think). I'm having the opposite problem... Will run until the bowl runs dry. If I hold down the float it will keep running, but the bowl never gets more than 1/4" of fuel. Oddly the float full gap is 9/32" from the top and mine is at 1/4"... so should be keeping the needle open longer. On the open side the spring MAY be adding a little bit of 'lift' to the float but just barely... Hard to believe it would make that much of a difference.
I have no experience with this, so I guess these could be very fine settings that make a big impact.
 

Last edited by Vegassteve; May 27, 2025 at 11:08 PM.
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Old May 28, 2025 | 07:26 AM
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I believe those springs were added to the 1904 in ~1958. I suspect your carburetor is ~1961, but there are no certainties here.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2025 | 05:18 AM
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The float spring was added somewhere along the way to help stabilize the float on rough roads. I have rebuilt a lot of carburetors in my life and I have never seen a carburetor with such a critical float level as the 1904. Make sure you set it exactly per the dimensions in the rebuild instructions.

Lou Manglass
 
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