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no it wont hurt the tie rod but keep in mind it may magnifie the feel of the worn king pins. but you will not get a good alingment with the worn king pins they will have to be repaired befor the alingment can be done
no it wont hurt the tie rod but keep in mind it may magnifie the feel of the worn king pins. but you will not get a good alingment with the worn king pins they will have to be repaired befor the alingment can be done
Welcome to FTE and thanks for the post.
It was a long thread I know. Kinpins got replaced somewhere in the second or third page!
As a matter of fact EVERYTHING got replaced! Any you are right, every step made a difference!
Julie...who are you using down in San Diego??...I have Family Classic Cars do my work, in San Juan Capistrano, but I know I'd never get that much work done for that kind of money...nice work!!
One little safety item. When you have to use wood blocks under the jackstands, make sure the blocks are at least 2 inches bigger all around than the base of the jackstand. That way they won't slip off the block. Just know that "stuff" moves! Bumping into the truck could push it off the block. We all need to stay safe when we're working in the garage.
I didn't read through all seven pages of the thread, so I don't know if someone else brought this up.
Julie, let me echo the thanks others gave given you for an informative thread (or two, if you count the brake discussion separately).
I found this thread looking for caster info, 'cause I'm replacing my front springs as we speak, and don't have shims although the shop manual shows them.
Kinda stalled right now because the new springs I bought have less arch than the originals and appear too long when they stretch out flat.
Anyway, I don't think I noticed mention of the condition of the rear hangers for the front springs, specifically whether the holes for the pins were worn oblong. If so, what did the spring shop do to fix that?
Mine are pretty bad (I know, pics. I'll try). I happen to have another set which I picked up at Carlisle years ago, and I've begun drilling out the rivets, which are surprisingly soft.
I also have worn holes in the front shackle plates, but those are readily available.
Interesting that the almost-last thread is about jack stands - I just bought some bigger better ones at lunch because my stretched out ones on 4x4s made me nervous!
I appreciate the kind words! This is a great site to find this kind of stuff. I try to add by documenting and photographing what I've done so others can use it without re-inventing the wheel.
My rear hangers on the front springs were ok. Oddly though, he said the bolts were almost completely eaten through and the springs were about to fall off! I had about a foot of side to side movement on the front springs. And I know my limitations WRT fixing that stuff and the time/expense involved VS taking it to a professional to make new parts to solve all the problems at once....and it was very much worth it. The truck was only down for a day and it' drives like it's on a sheet of glass now.
would you please repost the pictures of the rear shock setup. By the way, thanks for the wiring schematics got via email. going to print out and place in a nice keeper shop binder for reference..
Looks great. Time for my stock rearend to leave. Mentioned before working on Green 48 F3, but set up would work. Cannot find anyone in oklahoma so far that does 'spring' work. or i'm not asking the right questions. F3 does not have shocks in rear from factory. Idea to place new downrated springs if they can be manufactored. Thanks for all your help.
Hmmmm, I thought I posted a link to the Eatons Forum on springs, but it seem to have disappeared. It might give you some ideas on springs and where to get them. Try again:
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