I know the feeling Julie, I ended up not getting my disc kit and just dropped the C-note and got new cylinders, shoes, hoses, and dual master. I still have to spend another $75. I figure I can get it on the road sooner then do the discs in another year or so. When I go with an OD trans or just 390 it....

bob

 

sway bars have little affect with the parallel leaf spring/solid axle suspension. Spend the money on a good set of shocks instead.

 

Ok the appointment is made for this Monday with North County Spring in Escondido (for the local San Diego Area guys) to get the new springs made and installed.

New springs, pins, and bushings, new frame bolts. Right side is reinforced for engine torque, and reverse eye springs to keep from raising the truck up.

ALSO, they DO have the equipment to do a complete alignment on the stock I-bar axel, including the camber angles and king pin inclination. He's going to make the springs to incorporate a constant castor of 5 to 6 degrees (without shims), and also set the toe at 1/8 to 5/64ths.

He said it's going to take about 5 hours

I'm excited. Any last minute suggestions? I'll report in and post pictures when the job is complete!

 

Yes, bring sneakers for pacing.

 

I know, I'm nervous. I guess that's because I am really looking for such a noticible improvement. I think the alignment alone will work wonders.

 

It's going to be a totally new feeling and smooth riding truck! Don't fall asleep on the way home.

 

Update! He called me yesterday and asked me to bring it up a day early. So the work is being done as we speak (Saturday). It's supposed to be done at NOON TODAY!

The only thing he said yesterday when he saw the old bushings and bolts was "Oh Jeeez." He's going to lower it down a dash (about and inch or two) too to help fill in the wheel wells with my 15 inch wheels. He says he can do that without sacrificing spring preformance.

It's nice dealing with someone who has been doing great work for people for a very long time and who isn't afraid to offer good suggestions I hadn't thought about. Not only that, he is VERY patient with all my questions. He explained and showed me everything that was wrong, threw a load of options at me and expailned how he was going to acheive those results. He also gave me the "plusses and minuses." I explained that I did most of my own work but I really wanted the experts to handle this installation. He seemed to be respectful of my effort if not my capabilities - he didn't talk to me like a "stupid woman."

I am very impressed with these folks so far. I'll report in on the results and have pictures this evening!!!!!!!

 

It's gonna take a few more hours than he thought. As bad as those bolts and shackles were, I understand!

Monday about 4pm!

 

Well, I got the truck back with the new springs. So now the entire stock front end has been rebuilt!

And I have to say it wasn't quite what I expected! But,I am very happy with the results.

The new springs are a reverse eye that lowered the truck a dash (so actually it is sitting at the same height now as it was with the bad springs) and they incorporate about 4 1/2 to 5 degrees of Castor angle on the front axel without shims. He did not adjust the cambor or king pin inclination. He said that it was close enough to not warrent bending the axel.

The shop owner who worked on my truck mentioned that the bushings were all but gone - as a matter of fact he couldn't find anything in one eye. But he noted the eye bolts were almost new (great shades of the PO). There was over 4 inches of side movement in the springs at the bottom due to worn bushings and frame bolts. The retainers were visibly very loose on the frame and the springs very loose in the shackles.

He recommended I install neoprene bumpers to smooth the spring action (which I will do after he tells me what and how). He also recommender I run 40 pounds of tire pressure in the front with the high profile radials.

Also he mentioned that the springs were completely shot, but someone had replaced one of the leafs to give them some arch.

In short the entire spring system was a disaster and warranted complete replacement.

One last thing he mentioned was that I may have put the king pin bearings in upside down. It doesn't matter at the moment, but as a lesson learned (and since the kits/shop manuals have NO instructions) the bearing is built with a plate and a stamped cover that holds on the bearings (as though the cover were like a "race" similar to the wheel bearings) and fits slightly over the plate. The plate side should be down touching the spindle, and the cover side up touching the axel. Shims go between the bearing cover and the axel (I did that right). I guess I'll find out if it makes a difference. If I want to change it I have to completely redo the kindpins and bushings - no, not unless there's an impact later.

He was vhemiently opposed to installing MII front ends in the trucks and disc brake kits stating that if the stock suspension/brakes were installed and maintained properly, they would be as effective without incorporating the possible problems of a modern installation on a older vehicle - like stresses and torquing on the flexible frame at different places than designed - in short it makes th efront too ridid and causes too much tension on th eflex points in the back - well, ok.

In driving the truck home on the freeway last night from the spring install, I noted that with the rebuilt drag link, new kingpins, and tie rod ends, there was absolutely no play in the steering. If I moved the steering wheel even the slightest amount, the truck turned. In getting onto the freeway, there was NO dipping or pulling to the inside as there had been before.

With the new castor angle, the steering took a little bit of more effort to get the wheels to move (where with no angle/shims before and it was like power steering) but nothing traumatic - just more deliberate. I actually had a little trouble not over controlling because before I had had some slop to buffer my movements on a very light touch to steer. Now it is 100% responsive and "tight."

I was able to take my hands off the steering wheel at about 70 and the truck did not wander or bounce. It handled the bumps in a completely different fashon and was much more comfortable to ride in. It feels a little higher up!

One thing that felt a little weird was that the 1 1/2 inch drop on the right side (from the bad right spring) was gone. After driving it that way for 4 years now, it was pretty weird with the front of the truck level. It actually felt like it was too high on that side now - Vertigo!

The ride and response are wonderful. But the new front end is going to take a little "driver conditioning" for me to get used to it, now that it's right.

All in all, to recap what I did, I replaced kingpins and bushings; rebuilt the drag link and adjusted it; installed new tie rod ends; and had new reverse eye springs made and installed with new center bolts and clips, new pins and bushings, new frame bolts, and an incorporated 4 1/2 to 5 degree castor angle. I repacked the wheel bearings, replaced all Zircs and lubbed the entire front end.

The results are a level truck that corners well, drives straight without wabble, has decent ride quality, has tight and concise steering, and feels safe at speed.

The total cost of the complete rebuild (paying for outside labor to hone king pin bushings [$100] and build the entire new reverse eye spring set up - bushings/pins/bolts/shackles/retainers/u-bolts [$675]; parts I installed - drag link repair kit/covers [$45]; kingpin kit [$50]; tie rod ends [$35] zircs [$15]) was about $900.

The results were tremendous and eye opening. And I am very happy with my decision to sell the MII front end I bought (and couldn't install because of header interference); avoid all the modifications I would have had to perform to support the engine install with the MII (mounts, exhaust, brakes, swith to floor shift or change steering boxes/column, etc) and rebuild the stock front end.

I'd still like to drive an F1 with the MII in it to see if it is really worth the money and hassle of all those modifications - it would have to "Ride like a Cad'" for me to change my mind.

Here's a couple pics of the old spring first then 2 of the new spring install:

 

Congrats! Yes, You are the proof of my preaching that the beam axle and suspension can and will work well if all it's parts are in good condition, there is no significant reason to replace it with something else IMHO.
Now if you want the power steering feel back again, do the Toyota PS box upgrade.

 

Jules,

Excellent!! I'm glad it all worked out for you. Thats cool that you found an experienced shop owner that could walk you through the whole front suspension, very cool.

I disagree with him on one point.....braking. I agree that the stock front suspension and steering, when kept maintained, is a great set up and very reliable. Yes, the stock braking is adequate, but it was designed for 1/2 ton truck with a 100 horsepower engine pushing it around. You and I have both exceeded the 100 horsepower by a little bit....lol

I'm not saying you should jump out right now and fork over another several hundred bucks and upgrade the brakes, but you should keep it in the back of your mind as a future upgrade as time and checkbook allow.

Again, glad it all worked out
Bobby

 

sounds great. disc or drum they both work good. if anyone switches to disc......i'll take their drum set-up .

 

Looking good Julie, one thing I noticed though, there wasn't any cookies left on the tray,lol must have been a long night https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...8&d=1257273261

 

I'm still thinking about it Bobby - seriously.

I agree with the 100 horsepower thing and even that I'm driving 75 instead of 45. But on the other hand the FE with the aluminum intake is actually the same weight if not a dash lighter than the 239! At the moment at 50 MPH I can stomp on the pedal and the brakes will actually lock up the wheels (and the truck skids along on the tires). So they work really good! I may need to throw a couple lead weights or bags of concrete in the back to hold it down. I'm thinking about braking at speed and the maintenance ease and cost as well. Plus it will get rid of the wheel adapters I'm still a little jumpy about (even after 3000 successful miles now)

I'd really like to find someone who has a truck with and IFS on it or discs so I can drive it and compare. Some day soon.

Thanks for all the nice comments and inputs guys - it was a great help!

 

Jules,

As long as your brakes are working great and your comfy with them then there is no reason to go and change them out. Drive the heck out of the ol' truck now and enjoy it.

Bobby