Sluggish!!!
Your problems are fairly common - there have been a lot of threads recently on the same topic.
The issue can be as simple as injector stiction and a 5W40 oil along w/ the most recent computer flash (at dealership) could resolve.
or
You could have a bad injector or a bad fuel injection control module (FICM).
You could also just have an EGR valve that needs cleaning, but your symptoms do not exactly match that.
Have you had your computer software updated recently?
Are your batteries strong and healthy?
What oil do you use?
Are you meticulous on the oil and filter changes?
The first things you need to do w/ a used vehicle (IMO), but a 6.0L especially:
1. Change the oil and filter. I would use a diesel rated (CJ4, CI4+) oil. The best oil for these trucks (again IMO) is a 5W40 synthetic. There are many choices - Rotella T or Mobil 1 are the most common choices. It takes 14 to 15 quarts. Do not fill it OVER the max mark on the dipstick. Use Motorcraft or International or Racor filters ONLY! You can get them from Walmart, International dealership, dieselfiltersonline.com and as a last choice (due to cost) the Ford dealership. The tech folder has instructions. Do not go more than 5k miles between oil changes even thogh the book says 7500 miles.
2. Change both fuel filters. The Tech folder has instructions. Again use ONLY Motocraft or International or Racor filters. Buy them from the International Dealership, dieselfiltersonline.com, or the Ford dealership.
3. Tranny flush AND external filter change. You have an external (bypass type) filter for your tranny. Instructions for changing it are in the Tech folder. You need a heated flush machine to get all the old fluid out. It has a thermostat in it and you can NOT drain the torque converter on these engines. The flush (or at least dropping the pan) should happen every 30k miles. Change the fuel filters NO LATER THAN 15k miles and I do them at 10k miles (every other oil change).
4. Change the air filter - you will have to go to the Ford dealership unless you order on line (dieselfiltersonline.com again). At least look at the filterminder and see if it indicates you need to change the filter. Do not try to "blow back" w/ air or re-use a known dirty air filter. It is not worth the risks.
5. Pull each battery individually and have them individually load checked. If they test fine, put them on a charger and when charged up fully, re-install.
6. Have an auto parts store test your alternator.
7. I would invest the $$'s and have the latest flash applied to the trucks computers. At that time, have them print you out an OASIS report - this will tell you every WARRANTY repair ever done on the vehicle. The updated flash will be around $100.
8. I would then pull the EGR valve and replace it - but I am a maintenance fanatic. Many folks just clean it. Either way, the instructions are in the Tech folder. These trucks are VERY finicky. The EGR system can cause a LOT of problems if you do not keep everything working properly. That is why so many folks delete the entire EGR system - especially the cooler. But that is for another time.
After all this, you may still need to replace some injectors, or replace the FICM - hard to say because troubleshooting the 6.0L problems can often be very hard.
EVERYTHING I HAVE MENTIONED HERE CAN AFFECT THE HARD STARTS (except the tranny servicing).
I have a thread at the bottom of the list of threads in the Tech Folder. It is titled something like "Tips to prevent common poblems w/ the 6.0L". You should read it over. Stay active on this foum .... what you learn here can save you a lot of money.









