Number dummy, I went to an auction sale and bought a box lot of ford parts. In the box was a porportining valve. The number is d5ta-2b328-c1a It has never been installed. wondering if you could tell me what it went to? thanks in advance stan

 

You still have that? Part? I have 2 F250's with the same number. Most people will say its D4tZ-2B257A for the 76 F250, but ya never know! that number is for a 1976 F250 trailer special. Front Disc, rear brake, 8500 GVR

 

Unless you're doing a restoration, ditch the whacky and troublesome factory prop valve and go aftermarket.



Here it is mounted... and I have a bad attitude about any kind of plumbing be it automotive or residential. .. totally detest it.

 

Thx HiO, clean looking installation. I hear ya, that valve is really hard to find & expensivo- might try one of those adjustables.

did you fabricate that bracket yourself?

 

He did fabricate the bracket himself but it is now offered by Wilwood for an extra $32 on top of the $84 price of the proportioning valve.

 

thanks. while I'm in there, looks like I'll have to fabricate some new brakelines - ugh. Do you recommend just getting a roll of tubing and flaring them myself, or finding pre-cut? seems bending & flaring myself could result in a cleaner install.

so then, steel or cupro-nickel?

suggestions?

Justin

 

You can get a mini bender at HF for a few bucks. Parts stores like Advance have pre cut sections of hard line for a few bucks a foot. Pretty simple if you know end sizes you need. I reused some of my ends.

 

. You will have to flare end if you custom cut. HF has those too.

 

You know what my answer is.. fab 'em up! It's a skill worth learning IMO.

Speedway Motors is a good place to hit up for tubing and fittings. Their $10 cutter is what I use.. Start reading this for more info...: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13542395

 

Using a zippy disc on a grinder is actually considered to be better. The tube cutter hardens the end of it, often causing unwanted results when you go to flare it. Zippy cut, run a drill bit through the inside, file down the outside, then flare. You should get smooth, consistent results.

 

I always used a hacksaw and chain file.

 

1956 thru today: Numbers marked on parts are casting or ID engineering numbers, not part numbers.

D4TZ-2B257-A .. Brake Pressure Differential Valve / Marked w/ID engineering number: D4TA-2B328-A1A or A2A or D5TA-2B328-CA or C1A or C2A

Applications: 1974/79 F250 2WD with 6900, 7500, 8100 lb. GVW's with dual piston caliper front disc brakes / 1974/78 F350 / 1975/79 E250/350 / 1979 F350 2WD

Most people wouldn't say anything because they have no parts catalogs. So they have no way to look up the part numbers and their correct applications.