I'll say this: If I had to do it all over again, I'd just pull the turbo & pedestal, delete the EBPV junk, and replace the O-rings. IMHO, it's easier to pull the turbo than to lay up there the whole time screwing with it. I can get mine off in about 30 mins now. Remove intake tube to your air filter, loosen and remove the spider, loosen the three clamps on the turbo, pull the SS HPX off (if you have that version), take the two turbo hold-down bolts out, and remove the turbo. It's that easy. I admit that air tools sure help, but if you have an impact wrench, you have an air ratchet, too. When you're done, you'll have prevented three major sources of oil leaks, if at least one of them wasn't leaking already. When I put in my van turbo, the EBPV arm was just showing signs of dribbling oil, so I think it's wise to go ahead and spend a few extra bucks on O-rings, a 3/4 freeze plug, and a tap & NPT plug and just do it all up right:


Here's what the pedestal looks like after plugging:

 

Thanks Joe, I'm kind of leaning that way. What is the freeze plug for? I know if you get rid of the big flap on the exhaust side you need two freeze plugs. Oh, BTW congrats on the new injectors. Sounds like you are having a good time.

 

Great thread. I'm going to wind up installing a WW and figured removing the turbo was the way to go. If you remove the turbo, what makes taking that compressor wheel off easier? Do you still have to shove a screwdriver in there?

 

You can get vice grips on the end. Here is a write-up I saw: 99-03 Turbo Removal & Wicked Wheel Installation .: Articles

 

Jason, if you want to do it off of the truck, here's a good set of instructions:

http://www.dieselsite.com/pdffiles/ww.pdf

 

That is how we held onto mine when we removed it.

 

Thanks, but of course, it's going to rain for like a week straight here now. Can't get on it like I'll want too.

It already has a freeze plug on one side. You only need one to plug the side the shaft comes out of. There is an insert in there that you can knock out from the other side. I pulled the freeze plug (it's held in by a split-ring), and hammered the insert out with a socket extension that fit in there. Then you can put the freeze plug in that side, and put a split-ring there as well, if you can find one to fit. Since I have the van turbo, I just used the freeze plug and split ring from its outlet adapter to plug the truck one.

If you pull off the outlet adapter, you can grip the wheel like mentioned above. But I think you still have to pull the outlet adapter off. You might be able to grab the center of the exhaust wheel with something if it happens to be ground in such a way that makes it possible. Mine was kind of rounded off (material is removed from there for balancing), so it was very difficult to grab with the outlet still on.

Oh, and if you do pull the outlet adapter, use red Loctite on the bolts when you put it back on.

 

I think that write-up might have described the exact leak I think I may have due to the drip path description.

What about the gasket the guy in the video describes as being crucial for the sealing of the compressor housing? I think he mentioned something about it being in a rebuild kit. Are those typically shot after you take apart the compressor housing?

 

He's talking about the large O-ring that seals the compressor housing to the back plate. I reused mine with no problems, but they can stretch if you pull it off. Mine stayed in place, so I left it where it was. I wouldn't buy a rebuild kit unless you need to (they're about $100). You should be able to get just the O-rings -- check with Guzzle.

 

I heard you can reuse the o ring on the compressor side. I just plan on replacing it. It is optional in Guzzle's kit: Replacement O-rings for Diesel Engines

 

So unless you have a modified turbine housing you will have to get rid of that large flap on the turbine housing. I guess I'm still a little confused about the frezze plug. I was following the other thread on EBPV delete and looked like they re-used the larger freeze plug then just used a bolt or plug on the shaft side.

 

He left out the part about modifying the outlet adapter completely. You use a 1/4" NPT plug in the pedestal, and you need a freeze plug to plug the hole where the shaft comes out of the outlet adapter. Here's what I'm talking about:


EDIT: So you're not confused, that pic is the one that's there already. If you look in the first pic I posted, you can kind of see the freeze plug & snap ring I put in where the shaft normally comes out.

Oh, and to get the plug that's already there out, just pull out the snap ring, and tap the freeze plug through the same way it goes in -- from the outside to into the outlet, after you remove the flap & shaft, obviously.

 

Joe,

Is this the same freeze plug that you need to get? Gutting the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ

sorry for the confusion I just want to have all the parts before I tear into it. Thanks for your help.

 

Yep -- 20mm is about 3/4"... It would be good if you could come up with another snap ring as well, just so the plug doesn't get pushed back out.

 

Ok, thanks just picked up a couple deep 3/4 freeze plugs from napa. Sounds like they are hard to find. Guess I will have to look for another snap ring.