No I have not posted a diagram to make a TFI module tester.
I have posted one for a PIP tester but not a TFI module tester.

 

Must have been thinking of something else then thanks. I have been looking in so many places to find answers to the problems with my truck I guess I lost track of what I saw where.

 

Rebuild Distributor down to the stator, or get a new one, preferably Ford.

 

Is this what you are talking about?

T.F.I. Tester

How many times have some of you Ford owners been stuck on the side of the road? Waiting for your ignition module to cool down. Even if you do have a replacement one with you, you still need tools and most of the time it is at night, or on a long trip. Well there is an answer.

The T.F.I tester. The tester consists of another module that piggybacks the original one.

To build one you need:

New Ford TFI Module ………………….obtain from Ford

TFI module connector Local Salvage yard

14 gauge wire……………………………Parts Store

3 Spade Connectors……………………..Parts Store

2 ½ inch x 5 inch Alum. Plate ¼ inch thick.

For the price of a Towing Charge you can build a tester and get on your way just by unplugging the original TFI connector and plugging it into the test module and then plugging the Tester connector into the original module. I carry one with me at all times and have helped many other Ford owners (not just Mustangs) off of the highway or home. Remember to get it back from them though !!!!

Schematic


To build a Module tester see the wiring schematic. You can either crimp the spade terminals on the wires or solder them on. You must also mount a heat sink (Alum. Plate) to the module or it will burn out in a hurry. Use the mounting holes as a template to drill into the alum. plate and attach it to the heat sink side of the module with screws you have lying around in your toolbox. Also note that you must use the dielectric compound supplied with the Module before attaching the heat sink.

That’s all there is to it.

By T.J. Schurman
Tjschur@prodigy.net

Stangnet nor T.J Schurman will be held accountable from results or actions of such made device.

 

That is not the one I was thinking of. The one I saw used a TFI connector from another vehicle and had an LED or some other low amp draw bulb or two, a wire to hook a battery to, and instructions on how to use it. It plugged right into a module. It is to check a TFI module to see if it is working or not. Looked like it would work like the TFI tester under EFI Tools on fordfuelinjection.com. Looked pretty simple to make, but I can't find it anymore.

Been working on the truck today. I can get it to fire and try to start if I move the dizzy while I am cranking it, but it will not catch and go. I had it running yesterday, but haven't been able to get it running again today. I have been checking for broken wires until it started raining here. Haven't found any between the dizzy and the ICM and the PCM. Any ideas on where to look now?

Steve

 

I guess this is what you were talking about. It should work but this setup has never been tested.


It was posted here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7638515
/

 

That is what I saw. Thanks. I might see how it works. Thanks.

After the rain let up I went out and messed with the truck more. If I advance the dizzy quite a bit it will start and kind of run, but it will not run good and will not stay running. It has to be advanced so far to start that it will crank over hard. You know of anything that would cause it to do that?

Steve

 

By the way the White/Lt blue & the Black wires do not connect in that diagram above.

It sounds like you saying the engine is kicking back and they do that when the timing is set to far advanced. It should start better with less advance. That is why they start most Ford truck engines at 10 degrees BTDC and after they start the computer advances the timing about 10 degrees or where ever it wants it.

It sounds to me like you might have bad valve timing. But with with 130-140psi on all cylinders I would not think the valve timing is off.

 

Thanks.

It doesn't really kick back, but it cranks over really hard. That is the only way I can get it to start though. When it stalls with it advanced so far it will puff ouf of the intake sometimes. Makes me think the valve timing is off, too but I don't know how it could have happened. Could the PCM and ICM be getting eroneous signals somehow anf firing the plugs at the wrong time? Seems like the PIP would be responsible for that. I wish I could read the timing marks on the balancer to see where everything is at. I was thinking about making a piston stop for the plug hole to stop the piston. I would mark the balancer where it stops in both directions and take the middle of the marks as TDC. Think that would work?

Steve

 

I have not seen one that you could not sand at the timing marks until you could see them and then mark the TDC and 10 degrees BTDC with white out.

If you can not do that why not just replace the damper.

 

I guess you have never lived in northern Michigan then. LOL. Things rust here just because they can. It sucks really bad. I don't have the $60 to buy a new balancer right now. Haven't worked hardly in almost a year. Self employed so I can't get unemployment. Need to keep the repair bills to a minimum. Need to get the truck going so at least I can make some money plowing snow soon.


Steve

 

It turned out to be a bad coil. I put a timing light on some of the wires while cranking and it would not fire consistantly. Then put it on the coil wire and no consistant spark there either. Checked the plug on the coil again to make sure it was on right and after that there was no spark at all from the coil. Hotwired an old Motorcraft coil from an old 429 in the garage and it fired right up. Got a new coil and it is good now. I did make a piston stop for the plug hole and it worked great. So I even got the timing set right. Need to see how much better it is with the correct ICM on it now too. Thanks for all the support guys. Especially Subford. Thanks alot.

Steve