I have a 1994 F150 XLT with a 300 CID 4.9L 5 speed manual transmission. (single tank)....i had forgotten to update my old post on the forum. i had gotten the truck running and driving after finding faulty spout wiring. So that was nice. But it was short lived. this past weekend it started high idling and throwing code 411. i was trying to get back home when it stalled out and died going down the road. it came back to life and i drove it home. Replaced the idle air control valve and it still did it. As i had it sitting there idling checking for vacuum leaks it dropped to about 400 RPM's and then down to 200 back up to 1100 and then stalled out and died. Giving it gas didn't help. Couldnt get it to crank back up so i threw the code reader back on it for A KOEO test and got codes 542 (open Fuel Pump Circuit PCM to Motor) and the TPS out of range code. Can't remember the number off the top of my head. I verified the TPS was out of range and replaced it but the truck wouldn't crank back up. I started checking all my connections for the fuel pump and its grounds found no bad connections. I made sure the pump was turning on momentarily when the key was turned on and it does. i am getting good fuel pressure at the valve. I cleared the PCM codes and the system passed. i then checked all 6 plugs found they were fouled so i put new plugs in it and still no crank. I checked spark from the coil and its good. i then checked spark from to the plugs and its good. I can spray starting fluid into the throttle body and it will come to life until it runs out of fluid. I'm kind of stumped here and need some help as i need it to pull a trailer and boat this weekend.Here is a list of parts I've put on the truck since October 2015

PCM
Ignition Control Module ( Correct color ) Black Fender Mounted
EGR Valve
EGR Solenoid
Spout Sensor ( Did the timing with the spout out ) 10 degrees BTDC
All new gaskets and vacuum hoses.
Distributor
Distributor cap and rotor
Plug wires
Spark Plugs
Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump wiring harness
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump Fuse
Fuel Pump Relay
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Idle Air Control Valve
Throttle Position Sensor
Check Compression all 6 of my cylinders are at 150 PSI
I have cleaned and rebuilt the injectors with the rebuild kits. they all Ohmed out good.
Mass air flow sensor checks out good
Fuel Pressure regulator does not smell like fuel nor is there fuel in the vacuum line i believe that means its good correct?
I think that's everything. Thanks in advanced for all the help!

 

If it starts on starting fluid then there is something going on that it's not getting gas, or perhaps you have bad gas in the tank?

 

I drained all the gas out that had been sitting in it since October upon replacing the fuel pump. When it was running i put a full tank of fresh gas in it. That was last week.

 

You need to check for injector pulse. Pull the spout back out and see if it runs. If i does you have an ICM issue

 

No....PCM as in Powertrain Control Module aka computer. By removing the SPOUT you effectively eliminate the computer from the equation.

Without the computer in circuit the ICM (Ignition Control Module ) will trigger off the raw PIP signal.

 

I removed the spout as per request and the truck still did not run.

 

Also, I just ran a Key On Engine Off Test and it passed. So I'm not getting any codes via engine off. Truck doesn't run so I can't pull any engine running codes.

 

Pull your plugs again to see if they're wet or pull an injector to see if gas is passing through.

 

That effectively removes the computer from the cause. I figured there would be no change since the trucks runs with starter fluid.

Time to check fuel pressure and verify the injectors are commanded to pulse on.

 

I pulled the plugs and they are not wet. Thankfully its not the computer again. Too expensive . At this point would it be in my best interest to go to the zone and rent a Fuel Pressure Gauge to check to see if I'm actually getting enough fuel pressure. when i press the valve down with the key on i get a fairly good stream but i do not know if its actually enough pressure since my plugs are not getting wet.

 

rla2005's diagnosis in eliminating the computer isn't correct.

Typically in a no-spark situation, a troubleshooting technique is to remove the SPOUT connector. If spark returns, it was likely a faulty computer.

However, you didn't have a no-spark situation, and removing the SPOUT connector really doesn't verify anything. You can still have a faulty computer that doesn't affect spark.

At this point, I would check for continuity between the Gray/Orange wire at the distributor, and Pin 56 at the computer. Alternatively, you can crank the engine and pay close attention to the check engine light and fuel pumps. The check engine light should go out while cranking, and when you release the key, you should hear the fuel pumps run for about 1 second.

 

Ian, I covered this in my last response. It eliminates the computer for no spark, which as we both agree is not the case here. I was pointing out to the other responder removing the SPOUT does not eliminate the ICM. Sorry for any confusion on my part.

 

Checking pressure is a good idea and you should but i think you should probably check the injector pulses as the other guy stated, i bet he's right and they aren't working. Check your grounds, check the main connector, maybe some pins got bent or pushed back.