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Down Pipe Touching Firewall

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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 05:46 PM
  #1  
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From: azle texas
Down Pipe Touching Firewall

Just got the mbrp downpipe in, it is touching the firewall. Should I be concerned about it as far as catching the insulation on fire?
Thanks Tony
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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I don't think fire is a huge concern, but I would try to realign it if possible to avoid any contact. If it touches now, it may touch worse if the truck gets in any kind of bind, off-level, crossing a dip/ditch. etc.

Any force that pushes against your d/p is pushing on your turbo also.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 06:14 PM
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I would say that the DP touching the firewall is not good. Remember, the DP is vibrating as the engine runs, and if the DP is touching the "stationary" firewall, the DP could get seriously damaged over time. Then, you'd be leaking exhaust right under the cabin. Not good. Not to mention the contact is probably making a lot of noise. I would recommend taking the DP back out (I know, not a very exciting prospect), and using some kind of pry bar to bend the firewall up, giving the DP more clearance. When I did mine, I made a few vertical slices through the sheet metal seam where the firewall ends in order to soften the joint up. Then, I stuck a 6 foot crowbar down in there, using the engine block as a fulcrum, and pulled down on the end stick up out of the engine compartment, which eventually bent the firewall up and out of the way. It took some serious force, but now there is lots of space and I don't get any wear.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 06:22 PM
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I went through the same thing, cut the seam flange and bend it back. Best mod I've made on my truck yet.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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Get a port-a-power and push that firewall in. There is nothing behind there that you will hurt. Put blocks of wood against your engine and trans and push away.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 09:23 PM
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i know its gonna suck, but erik is right. i was in the same boat, but it doesnt take long to take it back out. not sure how you "clearanced" it before but, i used a porta power and a few wooden wedges to get the room. worked great. good luck
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 10:39 PM
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it WILL rub a hole in the DP and it won't take long. you don't want exhaust leaks so go ahead and get it over with. it sucks but has to be done. it takes me about 5 minutes to have my MBRP pipe out...
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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Porta power, man that woulda been nice. I used the ole hang-on-to-the-end-of-the-crowbar-and-jump-off-the-front-bumper-repeatedly technique

How did you even get the new DP in there without having to do that? That is a feat in itself, there was no way it would've fit for me. I couldn't believe Ford would do what they did to our stock DP, ridiculous. It's an obvious case of someone having to fudge a design because they didn't plan far enough ahead. Don't know for sure, but last time I checked, a squashed, ribbed, converging, assymetrical, crooked, pancake pipe doesn't have very good internal flow properties.

Hope the fix works out for you man
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 11:30 PM
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When I did mine the instructions that came with it specifically stated that you need to cut and push the firewall back that is in the path of the DP.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 11:53 PM
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From: Brandon, MB
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[QUOTE]
Originally Posted by Erik Sink
Porta power, man that woulda been nice. I used the ole hang-on-to-the-end-of-the-crowbar-and-jump-off-the-front-bumper-repeatedly technique
Too funny!!! I did almost exactly the same thing.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 12:01 AM
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Everyone here who has installed one of these has used our imagination to get enough clearence for the DP. I cut the seam and "massaged" the floor. I have plenty of room on mine.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 08:21 AM
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Wink

Using the porta power you dont have to cut anything, just take care of the motor and trans as said above with a scrap 4x4", as I did. very easy.
 
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