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04 Explorer No Heat!!!

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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 10:45 AM
  #1  
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04 Explorer No Heat!!!

I have a 2004 Ford Explorer EB with little to no heat. I keep reading about this blend door actuator with the stripped gear (even though I don't have a clicking noise from under the dash). I started looking into it this past weekend and I don't have the actuator in my car. My Explorer has the electronic dual climate controls with rear heat/AC. I eliminated the control valve by using a straight piece of heater hose. Both lines going in and out of the firewall feels hot to the touch. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 09:35 PM
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Let's start with the obvious. Have you confirmed the coolant level is full in the radiator?

-Rod
 
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 04:05 PM
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thermostat works ? water temp gauge at normal ? Maybe remove the heater hoses and flush with garden hose to check flow thru the core.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2015 | 09:01 AM
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Yes, radiator is full, thermostat is working, temp gauge sits a hair below normal. Both the inlet and outlet heater hoses feel equally hot.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 07:28 PM
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well, if the hoses are hot and you have no heat... then you have no flow or the tubes are coated with calcium / rust and can not transfer the heat. Remove hoses and flush.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 01:44 PM
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You have a blend door actuator, they all do. Can you get heat from the right side? You actually have 2 actuators and 2 blend doors. You could have a bad EATC module. Perform a module self test by turning the key to on, press OFF and FLOOR at the same time, the press AUTO within 2 seconds. The module sill do a self test and if there are any codes it will display them.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 09:49 AM
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Tested for flow through the heater core and it is GOOD. Tried a module self test and nothing happens... Turned the key to ON - Pressed OFF and FLOOR at the same time and within 2 second pressed AUTO... Nothing appeared to happen. I also want to noted that the very small amount of warmth that I do feel, it's mostly from the left vent. Right vent has zero heat.


On another note: I repeatedly flushed the cooling system in Sept. 14 until the water was crystal clear, drained and added the correct amount of antifreeze. Within one year the coolant turned a light pinkish color (was lime green colored when replaced). What would cause this, rust?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 08:20 PM
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all of the air goes thru the air conditioner coil, then the blend door sends a given portion thru the heater core and the cool and warm air are "mixed" after that to get the temp you desire. Check if your air conditioner compressor is running ...... if so, you could disconnect the elect plug to shut it off and see if things warm up. ....... by switching from HOT - to COLD, you should be able to get a "broken" blend door to move somewhat and prove what is going on.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 08:21 PM
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drawing at the bottom of this page will give you an idea of the air flow / blend door setup ........ not your system, but a good idea of how things work.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-please-2.html
 
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 08:23 PM
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when you say "no heat" we are talking about only the TEMPERATURE right ? You do have plenty of air flow.. just wont warm up ?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 12:14 PM
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Steve - Air flow is good. Temperature is bad, very bad!


How do I get to #5 blend door in the diagram below?...


 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 07:40 AM
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I have not worked on the 2004 Explorer, but I think you can take out the glove box and look thru it to the controller behind the dash...... On the F150, you can lay on the drivers side floor and look up under the radio and see the motor drive... Remember all of the doors work off vacuum, EXCEPT the temp control door which is motor operated so it can be adjusted, not just open- close.
Also , if you have the EB climate control system, it may be slightly different as longbed said.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 07:43 AM
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here is a post I saved from several years ago ... thought I might need it on my 2002 someday.--------------

------------2003 blend door post on nov 21, 2009----

Well after being quoted $679 and $650 from two different dealers...I decided to tackle the blend door actuator myself. I started at 10:30 this morning and was buttoned back up and on the road by 12:30. That top back screw is a royal PITA to get to. All in all I think anyone with minor skills could tackle this job as long as they have patience and perseverance to complete. You will get frustrated with trying to get that top back screw out...so I suggest stepping back and taking a deep breath because laying on your back beneath the steering column is really uncomfortable.
Here are the steps I used:
1. Remove center consold
2. Removed trim piece below steering column
3. Removed dash tower support
4. Removed left side floor duct
5. Removed dash control panel and unplugged wire harnesses
6. Removed 3 screws holding actuator in place
7. Unplugged wiring harness from actuator
8. Plugged new actuator in to harness and tested operation
9. Reversed the order for installation
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 07:49 AM
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You need a new blend door actuator. Around $100 at ford. I tried the Napa one and it didn't work.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 12:02 PM
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Blend door actuator out. All gears inside look perfect! Tested for proper function. All appears to be working fine. Any other suggestions welcomed!
 
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