Turbo Hose
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,321
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From: Mattawa Washington.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 2
From: Marietta, Ohio
get a better hose and Don't buy the bracket...
I too experienced the turbo hose blow off. Forget about the $80.00 Ford part. It's a rip off plain and simple. the so-called indention inside the the hose is a moot point. In just a little bit of searching I found literally dozens of places online to buy a far superior part for less that $20.00 including shipping. It is actually rated higher than the Ford part for operating temp and burst pressure. the standard 45 degree coupling has to be cut down a little because it has longer straight ends. According to my research, the Ford hose coupling material has a known tendency to break down over time and become saturated and spongy much like an old radiator hose does. Some people have resigned themselves to just buying a new hose coupling every three years. I have read sll the solutions to the blow off problems and I even tried the hair spray thing. it didn't work for me. Then there is the $50.00 clamp thing. What a rip off!!! check out
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...w-off-kit.html
if you want to se an easier and cheaper way to fix that problem. I think my post is the last in the thread. Simply put, you can fix the problem with a few bucks and about ten minutes time.
About the Turbo cleaning... Save your money and don't sucker for the $78.00 kit. You can get everything you need a lot cheaper. the oil line gasket is plastic and unless you screw it up it's reusable. The oil drain tube "O" rings are a common and available generic part. Use lots of anti-seize compound on everything you put pack together including the vane pivot pins, the ring that moves the vanes, the turbo shell and the exhaust inlet and outlet couplings. Put it on the mounting bolts too. Believe me, the next time you have to do this job you will be glad you used lots of anti-seize compound. I didn't use the abrasive wheels. I cleaned all the parts in a glass bead blasting cabinet. It is far less labor intensive and does not wear away the parts nearly as much.
One final note... If you want to know if your solenoid valve and VGT turbo are working , you can disconnect and connect the electrical connector while the engine is running and hear it change the turbo. It will give a code but it will go away and if you have one of the many tuners you can delete the code after you get it. be very careful with the valve when you do the turbo refurb. Use carb cleaner and clean dry compressed air. No raga or paper shop towels.
OK, I hope this helps you guys save a few bucks. But if you feel the need to spend I appreciate it because my Ford Stock keeps going up as you spend.
Later Folks
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...w-off-kit.html
if you want to se an easier and cheaper way to fix that problem. I think my post is the last in the thread. Simply put, you can fix the problem with a few bucks and about ten minutes time.
About the Turbo cleaning... Save your money and don't sucker for the $78.00 kit. You can get everything you need a lot cheaper. the oil line gasket is plastic and unless you screw it up it's reusable. The oil drain tube "O" rings are a common and available generic part. Use lots of anti-seize compound on everything you put pack together including the vane pivot pins, the ring that moves the vanes, the turbo shell and the exhaust inlet and outlet couplings. Put it on the mounting bolts too. Believe me, the next time you have to do this job you will be glad you used lots of anti-seize compound. I didn't use the abrasive wheels. I cleaned all the parts in a glass bead blasting cabinet. It is far less labor intensive and does not wear away the parts nearly as much.
One final note... If you want to know if your solenoid valve and VGT turbo are working , you can disconnect and connect the electrical connector while the engine is running and hear it change the turbo. It will give a code but it will go away and if you have one of the many tuners you can delete the code after you get it. be very careful with the valve when you do the turbo refurb. Use carb cleaner and clean dry compressed air. No raga or paper shop towels.
OK, I hope this helps you guys save a few bucks. But if you feel the need to spend I appreciate it because my Ford Stock keeps going up as you spend.
Later Folks
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