Seafoam,How Good Is It?
#1
#2
I've heard way too many praises, recommendations, and writeups about Seafoam to think there's a single bad thing about it.
Seafoam in the gas tank is pretty good because it removes moisture and water from the lines, but the best thing to do with it is what it prescribes on the can to clean out your intake. Very useful if your intake has a lot of miles on it. Basically, you pull vacuum line that sucks directly into the manifold, rev your engine, and have the vacuum line suck the Seafoam right out of the can. (Your engine'll obviously sputter, struggle, and blow black smoke), but when half the can is gone, turn the engine off and let it sit. What it does is crystallize all of the carbon in the system, so that when you start it again, it all shatters and blows out the tailpipe, cleaning the innards of your intake. It works really well.
Just be prepared to have neighbors complain of a nice black smokescreen if your system's really dirty.
Seafoam in the gas tank is pretty good because it removes moisture and water from the lines, but the best thing to do with it is what it prescribes on the can to clean out your intake. Very useful if your intake has a lot of miles on it. Basically, you pull vacuum line that sucks directly into the manifold, rev your engine, and have the vacuum line suck the Seafoam right out of the can. (Your engine'll obviously sputter, struggle, and blow black smoke), but when half the can is gone, turn the engine off and let it sit. What it does is crystallize all of the carbon in the system, so that when you start it again, it all shatters and blows out the tailpipe, cleaning the innards of your intake. It works really well.
Just be prepared to have neighbors complain of a nice black smokescreen if your system's really dirty.
#3
That's really good to know,on the EFI's the plennum always looks nasty when taken apart because they never get fuel,just air and crankcase fumes,same way with the intake runners.With all the"snake oils" that have been out,you really have to be careful.I put a teflon additive in a little Opel engine,20 some yrs ago, and lost 5# of oil pressure right away,never to return.It may have helped the bearings,I don't know,but it sure didn't help the oil pressure.
#5
Thanks greyghost85,I never heard of it before I got on here.Sounds like great stuff.My wife's '94 4.0 explorer is a little picky about it's injectors and at idle has a little lifter noise coming and going and I thought I might try a little in the gas and oil.It's a great running little v6,I'm not a v6 fan but that one does pretty good,considering the dang little car weighs more than my F150.
#6
I've used it on my truck. There are instructions on the can.
For more research, check out youtube. Sounds kinda silly, but there are
some good instructional videos on how to use it there. If you decide to
run it in your gas tank, I would recommend an oil change after that tank is gone.
If you use it in your crank case too, maybe change the oil a little sooner.
Most effective way to use it:
Wait until you only have about 1/4 tank of gas.
Have a second person work the throttle if you can't do it yourself from under the hood.
Pour it slowly into the carb, or use the brake booster vacuum hose as a intake.
Keep nursing the throttle as you use about 2/3 of the can. At this point, stop working
the throttle and let the engine die as you feed it the seafoam.
Pour the remainder of seafoam into the gas tank.
As the engine stalled, it still sucked some seafoam into the cylinders.
Let it sit for about 10 min, and then fire it up. That's when the smoke show starts.
I took mine for a drive for the smoke show. It needs to rev a bit to work, and
I don't like to rev an engine without a load on it. Change the oil after that 1/4 tank
of gas is used up, and that's it.
Murph.
For more research, check out youtube. Sounds kinda silly, but there are
some good instructional videos on how to use it there. If you decide to
run it in your gas tank, I would recommend an oil change after that tank is gone.
If you use it in your crank case too, maybe change the oil a little sooner.
Most effective way to use it:
Wait until you only have about 1/4 tank of gas.
Have a second person work the throttle if you can't do it yourself from under the hood.
Pour it slowly into the carb, or use the brake booster vacuum hose as a intake.
Keep nursing the throttle as you use about 2/3 of the can. At this point, stop working
the throttle and let the engine die as you feed it the seafoam.
Pour the remainder of seafoam into the gas tank.
As the engine stalled, it still sucked some seafoam into the cylinders.
Let it sit for about 10 min, and then fire it up. That's when the smoke show starts.
I took mine for a drive for the smoke show. It needs to rev a bit to work, and
I don't like to rev an engine without a load on it. Change the oil after that 1/4 tank
of gas is used up, and that's it.
Murph.
#7
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#8
There is only one negative side to Seafoam in the fuel tank. If your fuel tank is old, crudded up like some of the ones I work on that have not been run in years. It will break loose everything in that tank. Make sure to have a supply of fuel filters. I like to use clear one's so I can see how dirty they are getting till all that crud is gone. On rare occasions if the tank is rusty, it will actually start leaking thru pinholes that the crud had sealed. In that case, you need to replace it anyway.
#10
#12
I personally use BG intake cleaning products- the intakes do have a coating inside them that is suppose to reduce carbon buildup (well, we know how that works). I do not know about seafoam, but BG's product line is approved by all the MFG's & does not damage any coating or e-components (as directed). I use marvel mystery oil for 30 years in all of our vehciles and have yet to have to replace an injector or clean out a carb or injector.
#14
Tonight I did the de-carbonize treatment to our Jeep GC with the 4.0 I6. It has 232k miles and never been done. It has always had a low and sometimes rough idle but for the most part runs great.
I did the treatment twice and it smoked considerably more on the second pass. Will have to see if my wife notices any difference. The main thing I noticed is it starts very quickly now. Even starting and turning off within a few seconds then starting again was normal. Before the second start would sometimes do a near vapor lock and start hard.
I wish I would have done it during the summer heat. That is when it was the roughest and sometimes would almost die when put into gear.
This engine is sort of like the 300, tough. Everything in the engine is original. Just normal plugs, wires, dis. cap/rotor tune up stuff. The transmission is original. I have done the diligent service of that too.
I will have to purchase another can and do the mighty 300. But it seems to be running better after my three trips to the quarry the other day getting gravel. Weird how the engine runs better now after some hard pulls.
I did the treatment twice and it smoked considerably more on the second pass. Will have to see if my wife notices any difference. The main thing I noticed is it starts very quickly now. Even starting and turning off within a few seconds then starting again was normal. Before the second start would sometimes do a near vapor lock and start hard.
I wish I would have done it during the summer heat. That is when it was the roughest and sometimes would almost die when put into gear.
This engine is sort of like the 300, tough. Everything in the engine is original. Just normal plugs, wires, dis. cap/rotor tune up stuff. The transmission is original. I have done the diligent service of that too.
I will have to purchase another can and do the mighty 300. But it seems to be running better after my three trips to the quarry the other day getting gravel. Weird how the engine runs better now after some hard pulls.