Yes that should, but it is only a code reader and datalogger. You won't be able to do any type of module programming at all with it, such as what I mentioned about the GEM programming and the injector buzz test or even re-calibrate the speedo for 40" tires.

I don't know if it is able to read all 9 modules on our trucks specifically or not, but it should, because it is advertised as being able to handle the CAN protocol.

 

My truck (03' 6.0, 93K miles) started weird this morning, hit right off but if it were a gas motor, felt like the choke was stuck. Hump, hump, hump... whoa, lightly touched the throttle, cleared up, back to idle, hump, hump, hump, rpm again. Touched the throttle again and it cleared up and idled normal. Wondered what that was all about.

Drove 23 miles to town, had breakfast (Denny's 2 for one deal). Truck started normal but check engine light now on. Crap, pulling 5er for a 2,000 mile trip and leaving on Tuesday.

While at the evil store (Wal-Mart) wife doing shopping, I bought a Innva CanOBD2 diagnostic tool ($98). Plugged it in when home and low and behold, ICP sensor low pressure code. Sooooo, not one to lay on my back for 3 hours, to the dealer Monday hoping to have it ready for Tuesdays trip.

The Innova CanOBD2 worked as advertised.

 

OK, I am seriously considering getting my hands on an Autoenginuity software/cable setup for laptop...as it seems for the cost of diagnostics at the dealership - ONCE - I can almost pay for this setup?

You mention it will do the "buzz test" on the injectors but will it break each injector out so I could determine which one is bad...or at least going bad?

I am pretty much convinced I have an IPR/ICP or injector issue but my ECT Livewire doesn't seem to cut the mustard with regards to giving me any useful info. when troubleshooting these items.

I have to get the Ford license as well? ...I assume this costs extra? Any advice on where to get a good price and support when purchasing an Autoenginuity scanner setup?

Thanks in advance, my decision is pretty much hanging on this thread...literally.

 

Try Dennis at ITP Diesel. He's a site sponsor here and very knowledgeable on powerstrokes.

There's the link provided by eddiedebb!!!!

 

AutoEnginuity PC Scan Tool (USB)

 

WHOAH, I guess the "total Ford bundle" jacks the price up a good $120 or more...I was OK with spending $220...but $341!?? ...might have to squeek some more pennies out of the piggy bank.

 

The Ford Bundle is actually required since you are using it on a diesel. In order to read any codes whatsoever it would require that bundle. Bad for us, but it's the way it is.

As to finding out which injector is going bad, it will definitely give you a whole lot more to go on then the LiveWire. It has always helped me out with issues when I needed to use it.

As to the break-even cost, it will take about 3 times for reading codes alone to pay for the software(going on the 100 a pop price that most dealers charge for code reading). Running a "buzz" test or other tests will speed up the break even point. If you are into lifts/bigger tires, you can reprogram the speedo up to 40" tires(dealers can only do 37"s if I remember correctly), so you definitely have a lot to work with.

If you can afford it, I would strongly recommend the software bundle. It's worth it.

 

Hey Tex, can you tell me what I need to set my "Vehicle Interface" for my 6.0 PSD?

 

If it's not working under the auto selection, then put it on the CAN selection and that should work. In order for the change to take place though, you have to exit and then re-start the program. Primary reason why I like to keep it on the AUTO selection, but sometimes the vehicles act up on "you" and you have to put in the protocol that you need.

 

Thanks Tex...I will try that next time.

 

I have been using
vec Interface type...Auto detect
Initialization type ...OBDII Compliant

But in the test onboard system i do not have the tire size option and wanted to change my tire size.

 

I think you have to use the ABS module. When it asks what module you want to get codes from("enhanced powertrain", "transmission" etc) you have to select the module that has the tire size option in it. I believe it's in the ABS module.

EDIT: I just looked it up on my truck. It's the "anti-lock/traction control" module and it's the last option on the "on-board test" tab. It's titled in the drop box: "Tire Size Configuration".

 

To be honest, I think it's more like if I WANT to afford it. I'm really on the fence with regards to taking it to the stealership and paying the $200 or so to have them tell me what's wrong, I'm kind of through with "Easter Egging" troubles on this thing.

Generally, I have pretty good luck troubleshooting things as that's what my career depends on, both the bill-paying one and the "side-bar" one...but with this truck I've FAILED to the tune of about $600 so far.

Problem with the dealership is that I hear more stories of people that are handed a LIST of what's wrong because the stealership wants to make $$$$$$$$ when there's only an issue or two that would cure their woes.

In my case, it's going to be some stupid sensor (ICP, etc.) or an injector...and I'm afraid the dealership will list more than that.

The truck runs well but is down on power, I just put it back on FULL power via the Livewire and again, it short-shifts, it won't burn the tires off (and it always did, with EASE) it is so down on power on the top end that the transmission jerks into gear, barking the tires on the 1st-2nd upshift, this is pretty unusual but occasionally I would get a bark.

I am getting a nice puff of black smoke when I hammer it and there's a delay in the truck getting into the power band...and when it does, it's not all there.

Disappointing...

Some background on ME: I've spent the last six months paying off ALL of my bills, I only have a mortgage and a damned truck payment, NO CC, NO Home Depot, no nothing...in preparation to sell my current house and buy out in the "sticks" with a minimum of 2acres...looking for the great deals and have found several to date, just have to sell this house!!

I do a lot of race car work for myself, friends, acquaintances and it's definitely a side-business that's getting harder and harder to facilitate in the city, so want more garage/shop space and moving to "the sticks" will make that easier!

In summary, I'm VERY reluctant to spend any $$$$$$$$$ right now but I want to make my truck fast again!

I'll have to "hurt" a Visa card to do it.

 

The problem is loss of power can be quite indicative of a few things. Fuel pump going back, some sensor getting out of whack, EGR issue, turbo issue.


To me something like this would help you in that endeavor unless you either use vehicles that aren't computer "controlled" or you strip them out to where they aren't computer "controlled".

I understand that.

 

The code reader, to date, would only be required by ME, for my F250 PSD...I usually don't troubleshoot any computer related issues as most of the cars I work on are stripped out, as you say...or just OBD-1, simple setups whereas if we're having a problem we just change out the ECU or a relay...there are some sensors associated but if they're bad it's usually quite obvious.

So, for $341 through our sponsor...that's a purty big investment for me at the moment...but it's apparent I'll be spending more $$$$$$$$ to fix whatever is defective...it's just annoying, that's all and I have the resources to get readings but do most of my discussion board "research" at night, while at work...I forget most of it by the time I get home, asleep and up the next day.

The turbo appears to be operating just fine, it cycles, I have done relearns/resets and seen the blades with my own two eyes, they're beautiful and look perfect. I am about ready to just put the plug in the EGR hole to see if that was the issue as I do get some EGR codes from time to time...clear 'em and they'll come back occasionally...so maybe I'm losing my boost through that?

While I don't have a block-off plug to see if that'll temporarily cure the issue, I do have the original EGR valve to plug back in...supposedly that wasn't what was wrong last year when I experienced some running issues.

The $600 I spoke of has been on fuel filters, fuel pump/HFCM, cleaning the MAF...etc. - probably more like $400 I think...so I might've been embellishing a bit.